Cynarina lost flesh and algae growing on skeleton. What to do?

[ReefinIt]

I have a Cynarina that lost a bit of flesh and noW has algae growing on the skeleton. Looking for thoughts on treatment. Maybe it’s already to far gone. Other LPS look ok.

Thanks in advance.

 

[brandon429]

Lets rehab it here live time to link to our tank cpr thread. Following those same rules but for a specific coral we would

not dip it in anything

Any other LPS affected or just this one

Do you have crabs or picking shrimp as we look for causatives

 

[brandon429]

Depending on above answers we will direct feed it to regenerate and put protection around it to keep animals off if needed

We move to lower light levels depending on how other corals are reported/ shown in pics

Lets see a full tank shot to assess unspoken variables if any.

Bristleworms can easily come up from sand, get into mesenteries and rip out them with nightly food the coral was catching... leaving destruction like that. Don't dip it, that's what everyone reactively does and that's not a good move here

 

[JoJosReef]

I have a scoly that this happens to occasionally. I've revived it several times, although I don't know if it was my intervention or something else.

I treat the algae first. Take out the scoly, *dab the algae with a q-tip wet in hydrogen peroxide*, keep doing that for a minute or two while also give a few drops of saltwater on the scoly to keep it hydrated. Then back into the tank. Then I start feeding it daily with a bit of Reef Nutrition slurry (ROE + PacPods + OysterFeast +PhytoFeast) and a Medium TDO pellet. Watch that it eats it and nothing else steals its food. After a few days of feeding, it usually starts to look a bit better and covers up skeleton again. Keep that algae off though. Retreat with H2O2 if necessary.

 

[VintageReefer]

@brandon429 where is the cpr thread ?

 

[brandon429]

Reef Tank CPR - power outage biology, crash arrest, and recovery

Team Don‘t add bottled bacteria to the display during crash arrest as the cycle bacteria aren’t killed in still water. There are times where bottled bacteria can lower ammonia in fish holding containers especially if travel or transport is occurring, but by rinsing these displays out vs dosing...

www.reef2reef.com

that was a beginning collection of jobs which were basically rip cleans where we lowered the light power to rehab crashed tanks, or to head off a crash mid-progress.

light power re ramping fixes a lot of stressors that cause bleaching in corals.

direct feeding while being blocked from all physical irritants/picky animals is another big healing approach that works in all settings even if there isn't a problem, it's a nice blanket set of moves to try here until we stumble upon a cause.

if literally every other coral in the tank is fine and we can't find a single known cause for this, my reco will be to move it into a qt tank and simply power feed it for two months under muted blue high quality reef lighting and it'll come back/begin strong regrowth.

if it must be left in the tank here, and no other corals are injured or bleaching or problematic at all, then I'd look for direct predation/though unapparent like bristleworms at 4 am/vs chemistry, feed or lighting.

the # thing I recommend not to do in these cases is dip it in something where we have zero idea of causatives, limited pictures of the tank etc.

the reason I don't factor people's stated params (calcium, alk, pH, nitrate, p04, on and on) is due to test kit variation that makes all reported numbers to me just guesses-that's not helpful. when people report numbers, I know it'll just be some other reading if the kit was different/we get our tank rehab work off being 100% waste free (which is the post rip-clean condition shown above in the work examples) and by heavy direct feeding under windex blue lighting. we can stabilize reef tanks after crashes, home moves, tank transfers etc using that controlled set of actions.

 

[ReefinIt]

Most other LPS look ok. I have a bubble that isn’t fully inflating but another bubble that is thriving.

I don’t think anything is picking at it. I got rid of my cleaner shrimp awhile back because they did pick.

I’m dealing with a hair algae outbreak, well pretty much have always been dealing with hair algae. I think it’s because I used old ocean live rock that was left outside for years. Pretty sure it leached PO4. I’ve always struggled to keep nitrate up. Nitrate is 0.2 mg/l and phosphate is 0.06 (down for 0.4 of the course of a year).

I target feed reef roids. It looks like it still eats.

Think I will try the peroxide on a q tip to get rid of the algae.

 

[brandon429]

nice call on the physical removal of the algae off the septa/perx and q tip agreed that's the way, to treat it directly externally then set the coral right back for the feeding. agreed fully.

increase meaty fare right into it's pie hole, sustain for 8 weeks. truly spot feed it with meaty items (could be squid and or clam cuts from grocery store deli, or frozen reef food with meat in it etc) for two mos and I bet it heals.

 

[VintageReefer]

Switch reef roids for benereef. Reef roids is phosphate rich. Benereef doesn’t raise phosphates

 

[ReefinIt]

nice call on the physical removal of the algae off the septa/perx and q tip agreed that's the way, to treat it directly externally then set the coral right back for the feeding. agreed fully.

increase meaty fare right into it's pie hole, sustain for 8 weeks. truly spot feed it with meaty items (could be squid and or clam cuts from grocery store deli, or frozen reef food with meat in it etc) for two mos and I bet it heals.

I used to feed larger chunk food like mysis, and hikari ocean plankton, but thought it would be easier for the corals to digest smaller items like reef roids.

Does it make a difference? Should I go back to mysis etc.

 

[VintageReefer]

I used to feed larger chunk food like mysis, and hikari ocean plankton, but thought it would be easier for the corals to digest smaller items like reef roids.

Does it make a difference? Should I go back to mysis etc.

I use foods like mysis, copepods, pe mysis flakes, and sinking pellets for my cynarina. Soak them in Restor for a amino boost

 

[Outlaw Corals]

I would KFC dip asap

 

[JoJosReef]

I used to feed larger chunk food like mysis, and hikari ocean plankton, but thought it would be easier for the corals to digest smaller items like reef roids.

Does it make a difference? Should I go back to mysis etc.

Meat corals like a larger particle size. They've got a big mouth.