Curing dry rock in RO/RODI vs SW
DarkSky
Well-Known Member
I can chime in here with some anecdotal evidence.
I recently cured about 300 lbs of used rock. This rock was pulled from it's old tank, put into totes and left in my shed over a Minnesota winter.
This spring, I pulled the rock and soaked it in a 10:1 ratio of tap water to bleach for a week.
After that, I rinsed and soaked it in tap water for a week. I repeated this twice. (3 weeks into the process).
Next, I added heaters and flow, and did another week of tap water. I set the heaters to 85F. ( 4 weeks into the process).
Lastly, I did two weeks of RODI / salt water cures. Both times, I seeded the water with Dr. Tim's One and Only. I ran the heaters at 79F.
(6 weeks into the process).
After the 6th week, I was not testing any detectable phosphates. I pulled the rock from the curing container and placed it into my new tank.
I've since dosed ammonia to see where I am at on the cycle, and the ammonia drops down to undetectable levels within a day (API test kit).
I personally think fresh water curing can be done to save money. This used rock came from a heavily fed FOWLR tank, bristle worms were coming from every hole in the rock and some of the rocks were infested with vermitid snail shells. The fresh water cures coupled with a bacterial additive seems to have started my bacteria colonies as well as done the job of removing nutrients from leaching out from the live rock.
I recently cured about 300 lbs of used rock. This rock was pulled from it's old tank, put into totes and left in my shed over a Minnesota winter.
This spring, I pulled the rock and soaked it in a 10:1 ratio of tap water to bleach for a week.
After that, I rinsed and soaked it in tap water for a week. I repeated this twice. (3 weeks into the process).
Next, I added heaters and flow, and did another week of tap water. I set the heaters to 85F. ( 4 weeks into the process).
Lastly, I did two weeks of RODI / salt water cures. Both times, I seeded the water with Dr. Tim's One and Only. I ran the heaters at 79F.
(6 weeks into the process).
After the 6th week, I was not testing any detectable phosphates. I pulled the rock from the curing container and placed it into my new tank.
I've since dosed ammonia to see where I am at on the cycle, and the ammonia drops down to undetectable levels within a day (API test kit).
I personally think fresh water curing can be done to save money. This used rock came from a heavily fed FOWLR tank, bristle worms were coming from every hole in the rock and some of the rocks were infested with vermitid snail shells. The fresh water cures coupled with a bacterial additive seems to have started my bacteria colonies as well as done the job of removing nutrients from leaching out from the live rock.
zer0salinity
New Member
I would recommend cure them in a heated container also seeding it with microbacter 7 or any other brand that can put bacteria in the water. also prior to curing I’d recommend bleaching the rocks for 3 weeks, RODI rinse down, sun dry then cure. This way you’ll minimize the intensity of any kind of algae bloom down the road due to trapped nutrients. I’d cure the rock for at least 3-4 months. Phantom feed the container which acts as a source of ammonia to feed the bacteria.
Interesting discussions- depending of how much you have - do a water change in your display and keep the water - drop the rock in and add a power head. If you cannot fit all the rock in then plan for stages of curing and set up your display by prepping each piece how you want to display - cure each piece for 21-30 days and add to tank.
If its a new tank - you will cycle anyways so just put in your sand, dry rock add water, flow, heater and some thawed shrimp and wait a month
If its a new tank - you will cycle anyways so just put in your sand, dry rock add water, flow, heater and some thawed shrimp and wait a month
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