Crystal Dynamics 100G

[Whipples]

Any issue with mp10 staying attached to 1/2” glass? Starting build with same tank dimensions. What size sump? 34”?

Hey there, I had no issues with MP10s holding on the unpainted glass, but I did not run them near 100% and I have heard of some instances where MP10s at near or full power will vibrate or move. I have since switched the MP10s out for an MP40 due to the imbalance they created.

I’ve got the Trigger Sapphire 34” as a sump and having good results with it and Triton method despite being undersized for their recommendations. I run an H380 to make up for the volume and my tank is currently consuming 2ppm nitrate per day (verified via dosing and testing) so it works.

If I were to do it all over again I would have cut the filter sock area prior to installing it since I don’t run mechanical filtration. To silence that part I took two mesh socks with the largest micron width I could find and cut the bottoms out so they don’t filter but quiet down the water movement.

 

[drtrash]

Anything with the CD tank you would do different?

 

[Whipples]

Anything with the CD tank you would do different?

The tank itself, no, other than maybe go bigger ha! The glass is exceptionally clear, overflow and returns were drilled to my request, stand was modified to my request, and the sump drain plumbing set to my request.

My only issue with the stand is the front doors are a single pane of plywood and with fluctuating humidity in the house and with the tank does cause the doors to warp slightly, but when the weather returns to “normal” here in SoCal the issue solves itself. I’m trying to sort out a longer term solution and an open to ideas, but at the price I was quoted it is a trivial matter in the bigger picture.

 

[oneilwiz]

Keep on doing at your doing, you will get there. I remember my days with GHA.

 

[drtrash]

How deep is the electrical closet? Want to add to stand but not sure on room needed

 

[Whipples]

Deep enough that an EB 8 can be mounted and the plugs don’t push the door out. I can measure it when I get home but with the sump, and a 20x6x20 ato i have about an inch left in the sump area before I hit the panel going left to right. The pictures at the beginning of the thread should show the space.

 

[drtrash]

Sounds like 7-8” ok can work with that, dj strip is 6” deep so with plugs 8”

 

[Whipples]

Do the recessed deck to get that extra 1.5” of width like I did, otherwise it’s a tighter fit!

 

[drtrash]

What do you mean by “recessed deck”

 

[Whipples]

The recessed deck is where the tank sits lower so the stand covers the bottom seam, versus flush like the Red Sea reefer tanks.

 

[drtrash]

Got it, getting close to ordering tank stand frame done, tank is either CD or envision acrylic with same 48x24x20, only difference is eurobrace

 

[Whipples]

I think you will be very happy with it! They are local to me, too, so I was happy to work with them.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Hey @Whipples any updates? How's the tank?

 

[Whipples]

@mdbannister Tank is moving along! Lost a fair amount of the SPS corals as I learn them and their temperament and also the significantly smaller margin of error. I am in the midst of fighting off bubble algae but am on the winning side now after some serious work with Vibrant and manual removal on a weekly basis. I only have some hammers left in the tank, but once I get beyond the bubble algae and closer to the 1 year mark I think I will try the sticks again.

I will say it has been much more challenging than I originally thought and I had considered giving up once I started losing all the SPS and the bubble algae took over, but I am not done yet! I will post a FTS later showing the extent of the bubble algae and progress.

 

[drtrash]

Careful with vibrant the wave of cyano associated with this in a nightmare

 

[Whipples]

Careful with vibrant the wave of cyano associated with this in a nightmare

It did cause some cyano for me, but I can deal with that more easily than the bubble algae. I knew that risk going into it from previous endeavors with it, but it works exceptionally well against bubble algae.

 

[drtrash]

That it does, glad to here it worked

 

[Geebs19]

Your tank looks awesome!

 

[Whipples]

@Geebs19 Thank you! Definitely need the encouragement as I work through the ugly phase

 

[Whipples]

A quick update as the bubble algae is starting to go away. Sunset at the tank! You will notice a lack of corals- lost most SPS due to what I think was a nutrient imbalance and immaturity of the tank. I've since used long rubber gloves to do any maintenance, stopped running GAC/GFO, and tried adding as much bacteria (prodibio biodigest) and increased feedings while decreasing volume of food per feeding. Currently working 3 more anthias and a clown through QT, with a goal of adding another 3-5 anthias shortly after once I find some locally. Hammers are doing ok, some have split, some have shed their heads. A real head-scratcher and I plan to send an ICP test in soon once I feel ready to try SPS corals again.

Mitras lighting program is Vinny's from the GHL support group on Facebook. MP40s use a modified WWC program at 38% constant 43% reef crest switching sides every 6 hours (given my really open rockwork there is next to no resistance to the flow and this still gives me 40+X turnover). That dark spot in the middle is where the sand calcified a bit, but its the only part not being blown around by the flow!

Fish list:
Yellow tang (Kind of a butthead)
Tomini Tang (generally nice guy)
Copperband Butterflyfish (favorite)
Royal Gramma (aka Big Grump)
Ocellaris Clown
Two Ignitus anthias (one always hiding, might lose it )
Cleaner Shrimp
Assorted snails and a few mithrax crabs