Bring the blues to 100% corals mainly need blue and ultra violet spectrum. I thinkIt’s a heat
reds 50
Greens 25
Blue 70.
my husband fooled with them today so I’m not sure what they were set at. We’ve been trying to adjust them and figure it out
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Bring the blues to 100% corals mainly need blue and ultra violet spectrum. I thinkIt’s a heat
reds 50
Greens 25
Blue 70.
my husband fooled with them today so I’m not sure what they were set at. We’ve been trying to adjust them and figure it out
It’s a heat
reds 50
Greens 25
Blue 70.
my husband fooled with them today so I’m not sure what they were set at. We’ve been trying to adjust them and figure it out
I’ll definitely add another light!As long as your whites are set around 70-100 percent with the others mentioned you should be good. I think it's lighting as well. You either need a second orbit, or 3 viperspectras, marsaqua, ocean revive or other chinese black box. 1 of any LED is not enough unfortunately for your size tank.
We clean the glass weekly. Because we were warned of the same thing! Thank you all so much. I’ll update as I goOk that should be good. Just make sure the flow is hitting the birds nest.
It also looked like you had a piece of glass or plastic between the light and the water? Make sure that is really clean... that may be blocking some light.
Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
I use the Red Sea testing kits and api. What’s ICP?Agree with several of the above, but would also recommend an ICP test to verify that your test results are accurate. IMO, water quality consistency is the key to long term success in this hobby and this would give you a starting point from which to base solutions. I have learned the hard way to never depend on just one test kit. Also agree that more lighting will help.
I use the Red Sea testing kits and api. What’s ICP?
Inductive Couple Plasma. It's basically a mail in test that a scientist looks through a scope, runs tests, then they give you a sheet with all your water chemistry specs. Here is a more in-depth video.
It's not needed unless you want an extreme in-depth example of your water chemistry that is very accurate. The issues with our over the counter kits, even things like Hanna, is unless you basically acid dip the vials, your results will very as they get more cloudy. ICP tests are very precise and look like this, you generally get 2 or so pages of this.Thanks! Is that needed if I use RODI?
That makes a lot of sense. Thank you for the knowledge.It's not needed unless you want an extreme in-depth example of your water chemistry that is very accurate. The issues with our over the counter kits, even things like Hanna, is unless you basically acid dip the vials, your results will very as they get more cloudy. ICP tests are very precise and look like this, you generally get 2 or so pages of this.
It's more something people who have 1000+ dollars worth of corals in their tanks and want to make sure they don't crash. In your shoes i wouldn't do it. Your other corals at the sand bed are doing fine which leads me to believe it to be a lighting issues like I said above and why I told you to move the duncan down(it's a low light coral) and your other low light corals are doing okay, while your high light corals aren't.