Copper & LIVE Bacteria

[DarthChaos]

Why dont people use live rock/rubble for their copper treatments more often?

Recently ran a copper treatment (my first one too) - I used rubble from my DT, that was cycled.

I used Copper Power - ramped up, full 30 days therapeutic - and used cuprisorb ....and never needed to do a single water change.

No ammonia present, at any point.

Yes, the rubble absorbed some of the copper (as expected) - but I made the decision....that this rubble will forever be my "copper" rubble.

It was just so easy, copper levels stays more consistent (due to not needing water changes).

 

[Jekyl]

Materials like that absorb the copper. In turn it can reduce the meds to levels that aren't working. On top of that, the rocks can't be placed back into a display.

Copper is recommended to be dosed at 2.25 for 30 days. If at any point it drops below 2.0, it resets the clock.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Why dont people use live rock/rubble for their copper treatments more often?

Recently ran a copper treatment (my first one too) - I used rubble from my DT, that was cycled.

I used Copper Power - ramped up, full 30 days therapeutic - and used cuprisorb ....and never needed to do a single water change.

No ammonia present, at any point.

Yes, the rubble absorbed some of the copper (as expected) - but I made the decision....that this rubble will forever be my "copper" rubble.

It was just so easy, copper levels stays more consistent (due to not needing water changes).

PVC only. Anything porous such as rock, ceramic, flower pots will reduce the content of copper and even break down the stabilizers in copper. PVC is best . I have no faith in ammonia badge especially in copper after 10-14 days. Rely on dependable test kit. Not worth risking $400-500 in fish you have over a $7 badge

 

[DarthChaos]

Materials like that absorb the copper. In turn it can reduce the meds to levels that aren't working. On top of that, the rocks can't be placed back into a display.

Copper is recommended to be dosed at 2.25 for 30 days. If at any point it drops below 2.0, it resets the clock.

The only medication that I've researched is effected by bacteria - is CP

I tested copper ever day (once I started the 30 day clock) - and levels fluctuated a touch, but never got close to 2.0.

Rubble or rock....IMO - is cheap. If you designate that as your specific "Copper/Treatment" rock - it really makes the QT process simpler.

 

[DarthChaos]

PVC only. Anything porous such as rock, ceramic, flower pots will reduce the content of copper and even break down the stabilizers in copper. PVC is best . I have no faith in ammonia badge especially in copper after 10-14 days. Rely on dependable test kit. Not worth risking $400-500 in fish you have over a $7 badge

I have a Hanna ammonia tester - that I verify the $7 badge - and never had an issue. The live bacteria in the rubble, effectively managed (and is continuing to manage) the ammonia/waste.

As I said, the rocks absolutely absorbed some copper - but once I hit therapeutic levels, things were quite stable.

 

[exnisstech]

Most of the rock in this tank was used in copper and removed with cuprisorb. Its been so long I can't remember how much cuprisorb or how long it took. No problems keeping inverts or anything else. Much of the rock is now in my new tank after breaking down the one below.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Why dont people use live rock/rubble for their copper treatments more often?

Recently ran a copper treatment (my first one too) - I used rubble from my DT, that was cycled.

I used Copper Power - ramped up, full 30 days therapeutic - and used cuprisorb ....and never needed to do a single water change.

No ammonia present, at any point.

Yes, the rubble absorbed some of the copper (as expected) - but I made the decision....that this rubble will forever be my "copper" rubble.

It was just so easy, copper levels stays more consistent (due to not needing water changes).

You can use rock/rubble with amine chelated copper products if you are careful to test regularly. You can’t do that with ionic copper though.

IMO, doing this requires that you use a Hanna HR copper meter.

I agree - people who set up treatment tanks on the fly are going to run into ammonia problems that can as bad as the disease they are trying to treat.

My favorite technique though is to run a good quality sponge filter(s) in the sump of my main tank (for many months) and then use that as a bio filter in a treatment tank when needed.

 

[MnFish1]

Most of the rock in this tank was used in copper and removed with cuprisorb. Its been so long I can't remember how much cuprisorb or how long it took. No problems keeping inverts or anything else. Much of the rock is now in my new tank after breaking down the one below.

Nice tank - I would make one comment - though your tank looks great, there is no way to know whether it would look 'greater' if you hadn't used copper on the rocks - though I agree with you - its possible to remove the vast majority of it with time. The problems seem to come when people don't realize and treat their whole display, etc.

Rubble or rock....IMO - is cheap. If you designate that as your specific "Copper/Treatment" rock - it really makes the QT process simpler.

You're correct, it is cheap - and to each his or her own. The amount of rock in your QT tank is very small, and wouldn't be likely to cause any issues. If you had only rock and no PVC I think you would have noticed more significant issues (I believe your tank was the one pictured above) - and - there is no real difference between using a sponge filter thats already seeded with bacteria - or a new sponge to which bacteria has been added (i.e. bottled bacteria). I personally prefer this method to using rock because I don't want to have a QT tank running constantly since I don't tend to buy lets say 1 fish a month or week. If I buy - I buy them at once - either quarantined already - or I set up a tank and go through the quarantine process then put the tank away