Confirming - Prime does not seem to lower ammonia - Seachem Alert

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MnFish1

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Ammonia sensor films have dye molecules embedded in a semi-permeable film. I assume that if the film is damaged by bending, scraping, cutting, or abrading, it is no longer semi-permeable and the dye can then come in contact with things that change the pH around the dye and turning it blue. Except for the Seneye film, I have accidentally snicked several different films and produced little blue marks. I have observed what you describe as well.
everyone assumes lots of things . unfortunately - because of the companies dealt with - assumptions are perhaps the only solution
 
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MnFish1

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Were you able to observe the pH with a pH meter during this time period? I ask because small changes in pH can have substantial affects on free ammonia concentration.
But there is a key question which will be brought up later
 
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Were you able to observe the pH with a pH meter during this time period? I ask because small changes in pH can have substantial affects on free ammonia concentration.
My impression is that you have already proven that Prime does not alter pH. ?
 
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IMHO this experiment is resolved -using a seachem alert in freshwater - - there was no difference between prime plus ammonia - and ammonia alone lol All good? - Excepting the limitations from the posts above
 
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@taricha, @Dan_P , @MnFish1

Taricha, you referenced disk contamination. Is this something common for all of you? About a year ago, using the seachem nitrate test kit on some experiments I played with, I noticed that every time I picked up a disc with the supplied metal tweezers, it immediately turned blue, particularly where it was touched by the tweezers. It remained blue throughout the test and only returned to yellow after I replaced it in the bottle. I contacted Seachem about the matter, they said they had never heard of it, and suggested I make a video and send to them. I decided it was contamination and wasn't worth the effort since seachem seemed uninterested and I gave up on the seachem kit.
If any of you three can use either the seachem multi-test Ammonia kit or multi-test Nitrite/Nitrate kit and could use some extras, I have two of each I do not intend to use. I've had them for almost a year. Not sure what their expiration date is.

Message me your address and I'll send them to you.
 
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Can we have the simple response about pH now vs later, no cliffhanger is needed

as in this second, now?
I'm sorry Brandon - Do you mean did I use a pH meter or measure the pH - Yes - its in the chart (excel spreadsheet). There was no significant difference.

EDIT - or did you mean I thought of another question. I brought that up in the other thread (and in part - the conclusions to this one). Unfortunately, I'm sick - and am not going to be doing much over the next couple days.
 

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I saw in your other post you were sick agreed take time to heal hope you get better fast. things are no joke nowadays when it comes to sick that's for sure. nice call on the pH meter I'll go back and reread the chart
 
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I'm sorry Brandon - Do you mean did I use a pH meter or measure the pH - Yes - its in the chart (excel spreadsheet). There was no significant difference.

EDIT - or did you mean I thought of another question. I brought that up in the other thread (and in part - the conclusions to this one). Unfortunately, I'm sick - and am not going to be doing much over the next couple days.
So sorry to hear you are not well...Take care of yourself...Praying for a quick recovery
 
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Prime also neutralizes chlorine
Same here. It's so concentrated and I like how simple it is. 2 drops per gallon and you're done. I always considered the other claims on the bottle dubious though I was interested to figure out if there is anything to it.
 
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Yeah, but does it remove it, reduce it or detoxify it?
It neutralizes the chlorine gas (Cl2) into 2HCL. So - it removes chlorine gas, thus it reduces it, and it detoxifies it:)
 
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Revisiting this because of another question in another thread - another conclusion seems to be that the Seachem alert does tend to measure free ammonia as compared to free. If you look at the chart when the API test measured 4-8 the Seachem alert measured Just over Safe. As pH increased, the Seachem eventually measured at the Alarm level. It also confirms what Seachem has told me that it takes a couple hours to get back to 0 (in this case after 95 minutes it was significantly less colored than when alarming - I didn't keep testing for a couple hours). after a 100% water change
 

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