Confirmed ostreopsis and UV steralizer is doing nothing to help

[brandon429]

it's not bs, rip cleans, you're now required to keep uv to be free of dinos. we do rip cleans to save people having to make hundreds of dollars in guess purchases/be addicted to gear moving forward BUT for large tanks this was the best option.

UV doesnt help with GHA, rip cleans do, by removing huge waste stores common in most sandbeds. the long game isn't factored if we always seek the least work method but then again at least you got dinos under control/toughest scourge in reefing. UV is fine tool but it's best used in a tank forced back to clean, if you run it over a pent up sandbed you simply stave off old tank syndrome to a different month down the line. specifically for dinos I expected UV to help for sure, a quality one like that

for example, you can't start a work thread that invites any wrecked tank to post up and you fix them by having them install uv. we do that in rip clean threads all day long/but our work degree is very high/all methods have a tradeoff. we de-age reef tanks by removing the pent up waste stored as many months/years

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

it's not bs, rip cleans, you're now required to keep uv to be free of dinos. we do rip cleans to save people having to make hundreds of dollars in guess purchases/be addicted to gear moving forward BUT for large tanks this was the best option.

UV doesnt help with GHA, rip cleans do, by removing huge waste stores common in most sandbeds. the long game isn't factored if we always seek the least work method but then again at least you got dinos under control/toughest scourge in reefing. UV is fine tool but it's best used in a tank forced back to clean, if you run it over a pent up sandbed you simply stave off old tank syndrome to a different month down the line. specifically for dinos I expected UV to help for sure, a quality one like that

for example, you can't start a work thread that invites any wrecked tank to post up and you fix them by having them install uv. we do that in rip clean threads all day long/but our work degree is very high/all methods have a tradeoff. we de-age reef tanks by removing the pent up waste stored as many months/years

I cleaned by getting a brush and brushing all the dino's into the water column. The Clarisea then pulled out the free-floating bits and the rest got zapped. The UV then kept the dino's from repopulating to any significant degree.

Don't get me wrong I agree that dinos are caused by a lack of biodiversity and starting with sterile rock. I did my best to avoid that by using ocean-direct live sand and adding some live rock to seed the dry. I still got dinos. I don't believe the lack of nutrients had anything to do with it. My nutrients were never low. And when I dosed nitrates as recommended it was like throwing petroleum on a bonfire, the dino's exploded.

I honestly think that the best thing you can do if you have a bad outbreak of dino's like I had is just get a decent UV sterilizer and install it in a display to display loop. All this advice you hear about increasing nutrients and dosing pods and all that is fine for a long-term preventive strategy but it's not going to help you much when dino's are already all over your tank and choking out corals and fish. You need it gone asap.

Pulling your sand bed and ripping out everything to clean it is not required. Just brush off and siphon out all the visible stuff and install a good UV and job done! Maybe even a couple of careful doses of Dino-x along with the UV to finish it off.

 

[brandon429]

no that's not true, but I can see how easy it is to arrive at that conclusion by the immediate results in your tank.

start a work thread asking to handle other's tanks=humbled quickly. will need multiple tools and work schemes beyond what's stated above, very quickly to stay accountable for results.

what works in our home on our tank works outbound for others about 1% of the time, it's a safe zone to base theories solely on home reefs /1 example. glad you got the dinos handled though for sure.

 

[Cthulukelele]

no that's not true, but I can see how easy it is to arrive at that conclusion by the immediate results in your tank.

start a work thread asking to handle other's tanks=humbled quickly. will need multiple tools and work schemes beyond what's stated above, very quickly to stay accountable for results.

what works in our home on our tank works outbound for others about 1% of the time, it's a safe zone to base theories solely on home reefs /1 example. glad you got the dinos handled though for sure.

What would a rip clean do for dinos? Aren't dinos known for thriving in ULN environments which a rip clean would promote?

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

what works in our home on our tank works outbound for others about 1% of the time, it's a safe zone to base theories solely on home reefs /1 example. glad you got the dinos handled though for sure.

True but you don't know what other people are truly doing with their tanks. People will tell you their params are X,Y, and Z then when you go measure it for them it's totally different from what they thought they had.

I had noticed that some of the big time you tubbers like Reef Bum and Coral euphoria just installed a UV to deal with dinos and it worked. The difference is they installed massively powerful ones, such UV's are hard to come by over here in UK and much more expensive that is why I had been trying the cheaper ones. As soon as I installed a good one it worked. So i would say that installing a powerful UV should be everyone's first port of call when you have a dinos outbreak.

 

[brandon429]

@Cthulukelele

I have beaten dinos for others using rip cleans for nanos. I disagree 100% on the mass accepted cause of dinos. We handle them physically in nanos with excellent success. In the huge dinos thread stickied here where they alter n and p, the cure rate is very low and the tradeoff invasion rate is verify high (gets gha or cyano in two months)

How do outcomes look here comparatively below, night vs day outcomes at the expense of very hard work

Not all below are dinos jobs, some are, and full water changes never ever causes dinos we can see in all examples:

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

The best way to prepare your sand for use in a transferred reef tank, an upgraded reef tank, a reef tank under invasion etc is to put the sand in sections in a bucket and TAP WATER rinse it outside over and over with the garden hose until all the silt / waste is ejected, expect hours of work per...

www.reef2reef.com

That's a very very high cure rate and a 0% tradeoff invasion rate for all entrants

The downside: not practical for large tanks. The actual outcomes are stellar though

Not all tanks were invasion jobs but 100% of tanks were ripped clean, we can inspect the months after by finding all posts from any entrant for long term tracking

 

[brandon429]

It's OK to skip rip cleans and try other methods for sure, we just like to see waste gone vs reallocate elsewhere in the tank for the best sustain fix, using other people's tanks.

We can't evolve reefing methods if everyone keeps on doing rip cleans, it's valid to try other options

When tasked to fix someone else's tank a rip clean is all ill use, so that we never kill their tank by experimentation

No method in reefing currently beats rip clean outcomes per results on file

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

Looks like Julian Sprung agrees with me

How to Beat Dinoflagellates once and for all by julian sprung

As many of you will know, dinos are a pain. Mr julian sprung on live stream gave this explanation and this is the ONLY thing that worked for me. See he explains that dinos occur when there is a disturbance of some kind and to NOT syphon the sand as many of us do... this upsets the system even...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[brandon429]

I really like him and buy his products.
I hope he never discontinues C balance that's for sure, been on it 20 straight years in my nano


does he have a fifty page work thread fixing other peoples tanks live time we can draw patterns from /it's the only proof I value in reefing.

 

[brandon429]

We should have him step into the 600 page dinos thread stickied here, run his method and turn it around using all live time entrants. that thread is a big mess, BUT, they're honing methods that large tankers can use and when they perfect it, nobody will need a rip clean.

as of 2/1/23, we still need rip cleans to align the public solidly. I'm telling you/working in other people's reefs live time where their reports of non compliance make you have to take action or give public excuse is soooo humbling.

 

[brandon429]

ok I bumped that thread

someone/Julian/anyone begin soliciting dinos correction jobs that pop up new

direct them there, assist them, and drive every person to a closed after pic. that is very very hard to do


**I won't oversell rip cleans, they're inefficient and use up a LOT of tap water

the reason I sell them every day is because I'm certain of the results, tank owners are smiling at the end, every time. like any decent sales game there's 15 no's and 2 irate hate-you responses to every 1 thank you/I accept that way/I'm now fixed

I have to get turned down a LOT to hone my method, but nobody ever fails once we start that's key. they decline me based on how they think cycling works. I'm usually accepted in the offer when people see the collected after pics and statements.

I can command the outcome in anyone's tank who is willing to follow the rule, so I offer it a lot to see how many fish I can catch. it's not experimentation, you can see we command the outcome. experimentation is anything that isn't a rip clean.

Its ironic nobody will sticky a rip clean thread/they're too scary. going off results, we choose to sticky the popular method with a 10% cure rate and a 90% tradeoff invasion rate/that's because old cycling science is still the majority.


one day, it won't be / results will eventually command a new direction because people will demand a better reference for tank repair action. until then, the slog continues. I bet I get 2x new rip cleans before the end of the week/lots of chats coming in.

 

[taricha]

ostreopsis are not magic. They do go into the water and are killed by UV. Just has to be a working one of sufficient power, slow enough flow for good contact time, and enough cells going into it.
glad it worked for you finally.

 

[BetterJake]

Because the other two UV's were cheap crap. You need an oversized and powerful UV sterilizer for it to do anything worthwhile.

I had a TMC Vecton 600 on the return line, it's crap and the also the flow was to fast for dinos and I had a green killing machine in the display again a totally worthless piece of crap. I installed a Deletc 20w UV which is the equivalent of a normal 40w and ran it on a pump with a flow of about 500 LPH in a display to display loop. The pump is a Sicce Syncra 05 pump to be exact.

Dinos have gone even from my sand bed!

Correct. The GKM usually also have too fast of a flow rate to be effective as well.

Did you reduce your photoperiod at all after installing the Deltec?

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

Correct. The GKM usually also have too fast of a flow rate to be effective as well.

Did you reduce your photoperiod at all after installing the Deltec?

I switched to blue light only and reduced it a bit. Was back to full lighting after twos days.

 

[BetterJake]

I switched to blue light only and reduced it a bit. Was back to full lighting after twos days.

Gotcha! I'm also fighting Ostreopsis running an oversized UV for my tank for a few weeks with no luck but didn't make any changes to my photoperiod, 9 hours +1 hour for ramp up and down. I'm thinking the amount that was able to replicate with the lights on that long > amount killed with the UV.

I just reduced my main photoperiod to 5 hours, hoping that does the trick

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

Gotcha! I'm also fighting Ostreopsis running an oversized UV for my tank for a few weeks with no luck but didn't make any changes to my photoperiod, 9 hours +1 hour for ramp up and down. I'm thinking the amount that was able to replicate with the lights on that long > amount killed with the UV.

I just reduced my main photoperiod to 5 hours, hoping that does the trick

I'm not sure that the photoperiod made a big difference. What type of UV are you using and is it going from display to display? I got a plastic brush and brushed it all off the rocks into the water column. I think that helped a lot as it all then got pulled out by my clarisea and was getting hit by the UV. The UV stopped it from coming back.

 

[BetterJake]

I'm not sure that the photoperiod made a big difference. What type of UV are you using and is it going from display to display? I got a plastic brush and brushed it all off the rocks into the water column. I think that helped a lot as it all then got pulled out by my clarisea and was getting hit by the UV. The UV stopped it from coming back.

Jabeo 36W UV plumbed to and from the DT, it's a reefer 250 so it should be plenty big enough. And using a Sicce 0.5 pump turned down, so running at about 115 GPH

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

Jabeo 36W UV plumbed to and from the DT, it's a reefer 250 so it should be plenty big enough. And using a Sicce 0.5 pump turned down, so running at about 115 GPH

Yeah should be, i am using the same pump at full speed.

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

Yeah should be, i am using the same pump at full speed.

If its not working it makes think something is not right with the uv
This is how i have mine set up

 

[BetterJake]

If its not working it makes think something is not right with the uv
This is how i have mine set up
View attachment 3027025

Cool, thanks for chatting about it. I'll give it a few days with the reduced photoperiod, if it's still not working may just be an issue with the actual UV/bulb. People have had good stories using the Jabeo pumps , so not sure what the issue is. Mine is setup on the side but I can't imagine that matters at all