Clownfish not eating x5 days

[mandarins]

Hi all,

I have a 35gal WB tank with two clownfish, a midas blenny, and mandarin dragonet. I have been unable to get the clownfish to eat for 5 days now. All fish were quarantined and treated with copper and prazipro prior to adding to the DT, foe the clownfish this was in March. Tank has been setup since June. All corals were dipped and quarantined before adding, and all inverts quarantined. There are small filter feeding worms and various other worms so somethings were able to get past QT.

The two clownfish have been hiding, breathing quickly, fins held close to body, and have refused food for 5 days. I've offered PE mysis pellets, two types of frozen shrimp, other pellets and flakes all to no avail. The other two fish are eating and acting normally.

Parameters:
Ammonia 0
Nitrate <5
Salinity is 1.024
temp 80F
pH 8.1

Windows have been open and there's a lot of surface agitation. All inverts are fine.

As far as new additions around the time they started acting like this: a couple bottles of copepods, new phyto, new wavemaker, and a new batch of corals/inverts/clam which finished quarantine. Also 5-6 days ago a torch coral sloughed all of its flesh off, two neighboring torches are fine. A plate coral also bleached. Other corals (including SPS, are fine). I submitted an ICP but results won't even be delivered to the lab for six more days.

I have a UV sterilizer (increased time to 24hours from 12hours this morning), I took out the fleece roller since it wasn't advancing on its own and added a filter sock back in. I've done probably a 50% water change over the last several days. The RODI water was reading at 2 TDS and the resin completely exhausted which is why I changed most of the water (after replacing the RODI media). I realize this shouldn't have happened. I have tried to catch the fish multiple times to freshwater dip to no avail either. Attached in photo of the torch and video of clownfish.

I'm pretty worried and don't know what to do next.

Clownfish:

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi all,

I have a 35gal WB tank with two clownfish, a midas blenny, and mandarin dragonet. I have been unable to get the clownfish to eat for 5 days now. All fish were quarantined and treated with copper and prazipro prior to adding to the DT, foe the clownfish this was in March. Tank has been setup since June. All corals were dipped and quarantined before adding, and all inverts quarantined. There are small filter feeding worms and various other worms so somethings were able to get past QT.

The two clownfish have been hiding, breathing quickly, fins held close to body, and have refused food for 5 days. I've offered PE mysis pellets, two types of frozen shrimp, other pellets and flakes all to no avail. The other two fish are eating and acting normally.

Parameters:
Ammonia 0
Nitrate <5
Salinity is 1.024
temp 80F
pH 8.1

Windows have been open and there's a lot of surface agitation. All inverts are fine.

As far as new additions around the time they started acting like this: a couple bottles of copepods, new phyto, new wavemaker, and a new batch of corals/inverts/clam which finished quarantine. Also 5-6 days ago a torch coral sloughed all of its flesh off, two neighboring torches are fine. A plate coral also bleached. Other corals (including SPS, are fine). I submitted an ICP but results won't even be delivered to the lab for six more days.

I have a UV sterilizer (increased time to 24hours from 12hours this morning), I took out the fleece roller since it wasn't advancing on its own and added a filter sock back in. I've done probably a 50% water change over the last several days. The RODI water was reading at 2 TDS and the resin completely exhausted which is why I changed most of the water (after replacing the RODI media). I realize this shouldn't have happened. I have tried to catch the fish multiple times to freshwater dip to no avail either. Attached in photo of the torch and video of clownfish.

I'm pretty worried and don't know what to do next.

Clownfish:

video clearly shows Brooklynella referred to as clownfish disease. The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus and weird swim pattern.
Start with a prolonged 60 minute bath of ruby rally pro then at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
Since a formalin solution is often not available for use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.

 

[mandarins]

video clearly shows Brooklynella referred to as clownfish disease. The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus and weird swim pattern.
Start with a prolonged 60 minute bath of ruby rally pro then at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
Since a formalin solution is often not available for use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.

Thank you for the reply. I will QT them and treat with formalin. Do you think the mandarin would be resistant to brooklynella? Otherwise another quarantine and buying more pods.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thank you for the reply. I will QT them and treat with formalin. Do you think the mandarin would be resistant to brooklynella? Otherwise another quarantine and buying more pods.

Often they are but do observe it for any change or signs/ You can treat in-tank using ruby rally pro also safe for the mandarin

 

[mandarins]

Often they are but do observe it for any change or signs/ You can treat in-tank using ruby rally pro also safe for the mandarin

Do you have an opinion on ruby rally pro safety for inverts and corals? I've heard mixed opinions regarding safety and efficacy. Regardless, for QT would it be safe to use low dose ruby rally pro and metronidazole at the same time? After the formalin dip.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Do you have an opinion on ruby rally pro safety for inverts and corals? I've heard mixed opinions regarding safety and efficacy. Regardless, for QT would it be safe to use low dose ruby rally pro and metronidazole at the same time? After the formalin dip.

Yes safe for both.

 

[mandarins]

video clearly shows Brooklynella referred to as clownfish disease. The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus and weird swim pattern.
Start with a prolonged 60 minute bath of ruby rally pro then at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
Since a formalin solution is often not available for use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.

Just wanted to provide an update in case interested: the day after the formalin dip both clownfish were eating and acting normally! But QTing the midas blenny with the clowns was a mistake as the blenny bit off half of one clown's tail, so he is now in a QT tank of his own.

Thank you for your help!

 

[vetteguy53081]

Just wanted to provide an update in case interested: the day after the formalin dip both clownfish were eating and acting normally! But QTing the midas blenny with the clowns was a mistake as the blenny bit off half of one clown's tail, so he is now in a QT tank of his own.

Thank you for your help!

Great to hear and tail will grow back, the good news