Clown fish white stringy poo

[spamvicious]

I bought some clown fish from my friend five weeks ago when I set up my tank. He told me at the time that they didn’t seem to be growing much. They’ve also not grown at all in the time I’ve had them. They’re a year old and are still about 1.5 inches.

Today I just noticed that one of them has long stringy white poo. It eventually broke off. I feed them TDO chroma boost once a day. They’re both very active and hungry when I feed them.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I bought some clown fish from my friend five weeks ago when I set up my tank. He told me at the time that they didn’t seem to be growing much. They’ve also not grown at all in the time I’ve had them. They’re a year old and are still about 1.5 inches.

Today I just noticed that one of them has long stringy white poo. It eventually broke off. I feed them TDO chroma boost once a day. They’re both very active and hungry when I feed them.

Chances are they have excess mucus in their stomach lining especially if they were fed mysis and brine shrimp often. TDO is good but they need more.
Add to diet, flakes, plankton, LRS fish frenzy and formula 2 frozen

 

[spamvicious]

Chances are they have excess mucus in their stomach lining especially if they were fed mysis and brine shrimp often. TDO is good but they need more.
Add to diet, flakes, plankton, LRS fish frenzy and formula 2 frozen

I have some frozen food too (cyclops and mysis) but I haven’t been feeding much as I had really high ammonia while cycling that took a while to sort out. So should I feed twice a day or alternate foods?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I bought some clown fish from my friend five weeks ago when I set up my tank. He told me at the time that they didn’t seem to be growing much. They’ve also not grown at all in the time I’ve had them. They’re a year old and are still about 1.5 inches.

Today I just noticed that one of them has long stringy white poo. It eventually broke off. I feed them TDO chroma boost once a day. They’re both very active and hungry when I feed them.

To increase growth, you should feed small amounts, more frequently. As much as the fish will take in at one time. I would also vary the diet a bit. That said, some tank raised clowns have development issues that effectively stun their growth.

Mucus in feces can have a variety of causes, here is an excerpt from an article I wrote on fish mucus:

Excess mucus in fish feces:

This will present as white or light colored, stringy fecal material that often hangs from the fish’s anus for a longer than normal period. There are a number of different causes for this, some benign, others very serious. Without access to a microscope, there is little that can be done to diagnose this issue effectively.

Idiopathic mucus feces: this fancy term is just to describe white mucoid bulky feces of no serious consequence, but of an unknown cause. Some suspicion is that this can be caused by changes in diet or diets high in fats.

Starvation: Fish that have no food moving through their bowels may excrete white mucoid feces with little bulk to them. The primary diagnostic for this issue is evident in that the fish won’t been seen to be eating. Resolving the anorexia is of course the prime focus to resolve this issue.

Bacterial infection: internal bacterial infections can cause stringy feces as well. While some of these may resolve on their own, medicated foods containing a broad spectrum, gram negative oral antibiotic may be required.

Metazoan infections: multicellular worms are often blamed for mucoid feces, but in reality, they are almost never the root cause for this, and really, can only be diagnosed through looking for their ova in fecal samples. Fish can harbor tapeworms and nematodes without producing mucoid feces.

Protozoan infection: Hexamita and related diplomonad flagellate protozoans very frequently cause white stringy feces, especially in newly acquired clownfish. Metronidazole is the most frequent treatment for this issue. It can be dosed orally at 25 mg per kg of fish body weight, or 5 g in a kg of food. However, it is a very bitter medication, and some fish will refuse to feed on food containing it. It can be dosed in the water at 25 mg/l, but this is more effective in treating marine fishes, as freshwater fish do not “drink” aquarium water.

Coccidia: These microscopic, spore-forming, single-celled parasites are common diseases in dogs and cats. In fish, they cause epithelial necrosis of the gut, enteritis and the copious production of mucus (Noga 2010). These cannot be diagnosed without microscopic examination, and there is no well researched cure for this in fishes, although Toltrazuril has been tested.

Constipation: This malady is often given as a cause for stringy feces, but it is not as common as one would think. When it is seen, the feces are usually dark, not light in color. Often touted as a “cure for constipation”, many aquarists add Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) to the aquarium’s water – do not do this in marine aquariums, its use is primarily as a tonic/dip for freshwater fish. Seawater formulas already contain between 7 and 19 grams of magnesium sulfate per gallon (depending on the recipe). NSW magnesium level is around 1200 ppm and sulfur is around 840 ppm. Some benefit might be seen using it as a dip in additional concentrations, but adding a small amount to a marine aquarium itself has no benefit. Epsom salts do have some possible benefit when mixed into the food as a 3% by weight adjunct. Another commonly heard remedy for constipation is; “feed fresh peas”. This is an effective cure for fancy goldfish and Malawi cichlids that develop constipation and bloating. Again, overextrapolation has marine aquarists trying to feed peas to carnivorous fish, etc. The best method to enhance gut motility in fish is to feed frozen adult brine shrimp – not as a permanent diet, just long enough to get the constipation resolved.