Cirrhilabrus Complexes: Inferiority Need Not Apply (1st Revision)

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eatbreakfast

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Thanks eatbreakfast. I figured care was the same but I like the colors better on cf. aurantidorsalis. I know that some wrasses that originally were considered color variants based on location have now been given species status and wasn't sure if this was one of them. I will find out where cf. aurantidorsalis is found and get one from that location, adding to the larger tank. Another question I eventually want to get c. lineatus, c. rhomboidalis, c. cf. pylei, and c. rubrimarginatus. I know that the first 2 can go together based on other peoples posts and probably the 3rd can go but what about all 4 in the 125g. I probably will also add cf. aurantidorsalis, c. ryukyuensis, c. isosceles and c. exquisitus along with some flasher wrasses and maybe a species of halichoeres if you think this is doable. I could split up between tanks but would prefer all in one. Thanks for you time and help.
Jason
C. cf. pylei isn't advised for those other species, but the rest should work.
 
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eatbreakfast

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Thanks TJ! Would that species be ok with other genus of wrasses?
Jason
cf pylei is fine with sand burying wrasse. Don't mix it with fairy or flasher wrasses.
 
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A sea K

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Just got home from my not so local LFS and he had a bunch of Blue throat fairies. Been going there for years and this is the first time I've ever seen them. He also had a few Royal flashers earlier this week(one is currently in my QT), and I honestly cant recall ever seeing them either. The blue throats are some very nice specimens but I'm afraid to add them with my current bunch given their reputation for aggression.
 

cody hendrix

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Just got home from my not so local LFS and he had a bunch of Blue throat fairies. Been going there for years and this is the first time I've ever seen them. He also had a few Royal flashers earlier this week(one is currently in my QT), and I honestly cant recall ever seeing them either. The blue throats are some very nice specimens but I'm afraid to add them with my current bunch given their reputation for aggression.

That and I have heard they lose the blue coloration as time goes on.
 
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A sea K

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I hear you on IDing wrasses. I know many but certainly not all wrasses especially the fairies. Thanks to this and several other threads by the OP I have learned a great deal not only with ID but temperament as well. Unfortunately I am a little late and found I have already unknowingly made a mistake. Seems I have both C. cyanopleura (possibly C. cf) and C solorensis which I added at the same time. They look so different as just a casual observation and i did not see an issue with them being together. Been about a month now with no issues but I'm worried about long term.
 

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Just added a McCoskers wrasse, and a ruby head wrasse to my DT, and my resident solor wrasse went after the ruby head immediately, even though the ruby is much bigger than he is. How should I address the aggression? Do I just need to let it play out, or does one of them need to go ASAP?
 
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DirtDiggler2823

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Just added a McCoskers wrasse, and a ruby head wrasse to my DT, and my resident solor wrasse went after the ruby head immediately, even though the ruby is much bigger than he is. How should I address the aggression? Do I just need to let it play out, or does one of them need to go ASAP?

 

HairyGary

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HairyGary

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Netting that punk is going to be so much fun!
Put an acclimation box that is open on the side in the tank for a bit and feed from there.

Good luck. If you remove him and place him after some time and still an issue you may have to remove him altogether. Especially if you decide to add more wrasses.
 

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Put an acclimation box that is open on the side in the tank for a bit and feed from there.

Good luck. If you remove him and place him after some time and still an issue you may have to remove him altogether. Especially if you decide to add more wrasses.

I have one of those clear floating acclimation boxes I plan on using. I shut the lights off, and I moved a bunch of frags so I could pull some rocks out. I have a feeling I'll need to remove all of the rocks, which is fine because I built it to be removable, I just don't want to do it right this minute as I am teleworking...... wrasses, gotta love em.
 
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DirtDiggler2823

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Those two are close cousins, so I'm not terribly surprised.

Hope it works out after a period of time out.

Lol Wrasseholes

Since the Rubyhead was tired, I was able to catch him and get him into a acclimation box. I'll have to pull my rock out to corral the solor wrasse, who will then be put into the acclimation box for a while so the rubyhead can settle in. Just gotta keep them both alive. Also, I wasn't able to find the rubyhead on the chart, is he on there?
 

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Yeah its the Cyano one, same family as the solor, they look the same to me as well.

They will never get along, I would sell one.

Ram

upload_2019-2-5_11-36-38.png
 
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DirtDiggler2823

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Yeah its the Cyano one, same family as the solor, they look the same to me as well.

They will never get along, I would sell one.

Ram

View attachment 968306
Problem took care of itself. Rubyhead died in the acclimation box. Dang, I can't believe I miss that one on the list when i was researching.
 
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Polyp polynomial: How many heads do you start with when buying zoas?

  • One head is enough to get started.

    Votes: 27 10.6%
  • 2 to 4 heads.

    Votes: 145 57.1%
  • 5 heads or more.

    Votes: 65 25.6%
  • Full colony.

    Votes: 10 3.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 7 2.8%

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