Cirrhilabrus Complexes: Inferiority Need Not Apply (1st Revision)

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DirtDiggler2823

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It depends on a lot of factors, but possibly 5-8 fairy wrasses in a 90g.
That is great news. I'll ask the question again once i have the sand and rock in the tank, which should be before the end of the month.
 

cody hendrix

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There will be some squabbling, but the labouti and red velvet are more concerning.

Yea those two are my biggest concern as well.The labouti and red velvet will be last 2 to go un. I am also going to get them both on the smaller side compared to the others. I didn't know about the three that are right next to each other in the complex. Out of the pink margins, rhomboid and lineatus what do you think is the most aggressive? All three of them are some of my favorite. So I would love to have them. If i get them small would that help?
 

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Yea those two are my biggest concern as well.The labouti and red velvet will be last 2 to go un. I am also going to get them both on the smaller side compared to the others. I didn't know about the three that are right next to each other in the complex. Out of the pink margins, rhomboid and lineatus what do you think is the most aggressive? All three of them are some of my favorite. So I would love to have them. If i get them small would that help?
The rhombid is the least aggressive, so get that before the others. Getting smaller specimens may help.
 
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I have been struggling with compatibility suggestions for wrasses, and I don’t know what I should do.

I have a Waterbox 100.3 coming soon, which is 3’x2’x2’. I purchased a Tricolor Fairy Wrasse, which seems to be a common name for a Lubbock’s Fairy Wrasse. I also had a McCosker’s Flasher Wrasse that my clownfish pair beat to death. I removed the clownfish, and I am down to the Tricolor Fairy Wrasse. I’d love to have another wrasse, if possible, so I need help with my decision. I’ve read some charts, but I’m still confused about compatibility.

The Waterbox has a display volume of ~70g, and I will be going bare-bottom. I picked the Tricolor Fairy Wrasse and McCosker’s Flasher Wrasse because they don’t require sand.

Can you help me by providing some suggestions of other wrasses that would be able to live with my current Tricolor Fairy wrasse, if possible? I think it will help me understand some of the charts as well. The common names of the wrasses tend to throw me off.
 

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I have been struggling with compatibility suggestions for wrasses, and I don’t know what I should do.

I have a Waterbox 100.3 coming soon, which is 3’x2’x2’. I purchased a Tricolor Fairy Wrasse, which seems to be a common name for a Lubbock’s Fairy Wrasse. I also had a McCosker’s Flasher Wrasse that my clownfish pair beat to death. I removed the clownfish, and I am down to the Tricolor Fairy Wrasse. I’d love to have another wrasse, if possible, so I need help with my decision. I’ve read some charts, but I’m still confused about compatibility.

The Waterbox has a display volume of ~70g, and I will be going bare-bottom. I picked the Tricolor Fairy Wrasse and McCosker’s Flasher Wrasse because they don’t require sand.

Can you help me by providing some suggestions of other wrasses that would be able to live with my current Tricolor Fairy wrasse, if possible? I think it will help me understand some of the charts as well. The common names of the wrasses tend to throw me off.
Some of the Cirrhilabrus species that would work include; isosceles, lunatus, brunneus, rhomboidalis, rubeus, aurantidorsalis, and jordani.
 

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Some of the Cirrhilabrus species that would work include; isosceles, lunatus, brunneus, rhomboidalis, rubeus, aurantidorsalis, and jordani.

Thank you for the suggestions. I really appreciate your help as it will make parsing compatibility charts easier for me.
 
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nickkohrn

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Some of the Cirrhilabrus species that would work include; isosceles, lunatus, brunneus, rhomboidalis, rubeus, aurantidorsalis, and jordani.

Based on the information that you provided, it appears that any of the complexes outlined in red in the attached image should be compatible with the Tricolor Fairy Wrasse, outlined in blue, that I currently have. Is that correct?

CirrhilabrusComplexes.PNG
 

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Based on the information that you provided, it appears that any of the complexes outlined in red in the attached image should be compatible with the Tricolor Fairy Wrasse, outlined in blue, that I currently have. Is that correct?

View attachment 912541
Correct.
 

DirtDiggler2823

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So I purchased my first fish this weekend. They are in QT right now. I picked up a Solon wrasse, a lubbocks wrasse, and a sleeper blue dot goby. The two wrasses I picked up, these are the more peaceful wrasses, yes? Not trying to deal with any wrasseholes right out of the gate.
20181209_160622.jpeg
20181209_160626.jpeg
20181209_160632.jpeg
 
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DirtDiggler2823

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They are in the middle for Cirrhilabrus temperment. They should be fine.
Looking at adding a McCoskers wrasse, a carpenters wrasse, and a whip fin wrasse. Foresee any issues with those guys?
 

HairyGary

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Looking at adding a McCoskers wrasse, a carpenters wrasse, and a whip fin wrasse. Foresee any issues with those guys?
I'll let TJ or Hunter chime in but the Whipfin is very aggressive and will be the issue even if you add last.
 
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DirtDiggler2823

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I'll let TJ or Hunter chime in but the Whipfin is very aggressive and will be the issue even if you add last.
And that is why I asked. I can do without aggressive fish at this point. Live aquaria is listing them as peaceful.
 
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