He likes the camera what can I say lol poor guy has been through a lot this last month. Now I’m treating him for a bacterial infection.
Well, stay on it man. He needs a lot of help. Good job so far!
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He likes the camera what can I say lol poor guy has been through a lot this last month. Now I’m treating him for a bacterial infection.
I lost 1 of 2. Not sure if it was the CP or the velvet infection.Can a Bicolor fox face tolerate CP? I know Magnificent Foxface die from it based on my last two experiences with them.
Yeah I’ve noticed that. Better to just use copper, plus it’s hard because you can’t measure CPI lost 1 of 2. Not sure if it was the CP or the velvet infection.
Actually my magnificent made it through fine, the one spot died. WeirdYeah I’ve noticed that. Better to just use copper, plus it’s hard because you can’t measure CP
Well, stay on it man. He needs a lot of help. Good job so far!
I am prepping my 20 gallon QT for 3 Psudanthias bicolor. I am concerned about Uronema and plan on a freshwater dip 1st. It it still not advised to use Chloroquine Phosphate with these fish? I have on hand Furan-2, Kanaplex, Focus, and Metroplex. I have Frozen Hikari mysis, cyclopeeze and LRS any other help is appreciated.
Agree^^^CP still not recommended for anthias, as far as I know. If you're concerned about uronema I'd probably medicate with Copper Power and Metroplex concurrently.
Spend a couple bucks and get a proper tool for the job. I've used it for multiple purposes outside of fish.hello all,
so i got the Diamond back CP, but am having trouble measuring out 40mg/gallon. This comes out for me to be about 800mg, but my kitchen scale only measures full grams. the package comes with a "scoop= 1 gram' but when using the scale the scoop seems to come out closer to 2 grams. Should i trust the scoop?
I would get a scale. I use a jewelry scale. This one from Amazon.hello all,
so i got the Diamond back CP, but am having trouble measuring out 40mg/gallon. This comes out for me to be about 800mg, but my kitchen scale only measures full grams. the package comes with a "scoop= 1 gram' but when using the scale the scoop seems to come out closer to 2 grams. Should i trust the scoop?
The link to aquavetmeds do not work ...Chloroquine phosphate: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium), Brooklynella hostilis & Uronema marinum.
How To Treat - Chloroquine phosphate (CP) is a “new drug” that actually was widely used to control external protozoa in saltwater aquariums back in the 70s & 80s. It was even used in some aquarium medications sold at LFS. Nowadays CP requires a prescription to purchase legitimately, making it more difficult to obtain. Fast forward to today and thanks to the power of the Internet, CP has come roaring back! The biggest obstacle to overcome is obtaining pharmaceutical grade 99% pure CP. I cannot stress the importance of this enough. Do not buy it from some guy on eBay or even an online vendor. The only way to be sure you are getting 99% pure CP is to get your vet (or an MD) to write a prescription which can then be filled by a compounding pharmacy.
CP is a “one and done” medication, meaning you dose once and that’s it. There are no test kits for CP, so it’s important that you dose accurately using a digital scale. Also, don’t forget to dose any replacement water (from water changes, but not top-off) with CP. The dosage rates are as follows:
As you can see, there is quite a bit of wiggle room between the minimum & maximum dosage. Practically speaking, 40mg/gal will treat all external protozoa issues… its just that the higher dosages may get the job done a little faster. Treatment lasts 30 consecutive days, and no carbon, UV, etc. may be used during this time (although it can be used later when you wish to remove the medication from the water.) A little quirk about CP is that light will degrade it; however it appears this mainly applies to the powder itself, so store your CP in a cool, dark place. Once in water, you may use an aquarium light with CP - however fish with velvet are light sensitive so I would only use ambient lighting (ex. lamp across the room) if treating for that. CP is NOT reef safe. In addition to killing your corals, it is a very strong algaecide.
- Prophylactic treatment is 40 mg per gallon.
- For active infections (visible symptoms present), I typically will up the dosage to 60mg/gal. However, I cannot say if this is anymore effective than the "standard" 40mg/gal dose.
- For Uronema marinum and really bad infestations, you can dose up to 80mg/gal. However, I have noticed appetite suppression and lethargy at this concentration.
Pros - Gentle on most fish (see DO NOT USE list below), a “one and done” medication that treats most external protozoa. CP is the closest thing there is to a “wonder drug” in our hobby.
Cons/Side Effects - Expensive, hard to get (requires a prescription), powder is heat & light sensitive - so store in a cool, dark place. Attempts to feed CP laced food are usually not successful due to its bad metallic taste.
** Based upon anecdotal experience (mine and others), DO NOT USE CP on Anthias, Wrasses or Hippo Tangs. For the time being, chelated copper (exs. Coppersafe, Copper Power) is the best alternative to use on these species. **
** Finally, a place to buy Chloroquine: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/a-place-to-buy-chloroquine.252610/ **
** Special thanks to @svogun for providing this link, which can be used to find aquatic vets in your area for sourcing CP: http://www.aquavetmed.info/ **