Chloroquine phosphate

ReefWithCare

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i was kind of suspicious about the purity so i dosed a little more than 60mg per gallon and looks like its working :)

I’ve been in agreement with this with online sources. Just assume a lower purity and dose up a little to say 50/mg to a gallon. The range is wide so you should be fine. Mostly online sources claim 99% but it’s likely going to fall around 95%.

NPF provided me a CoA and it’s from China. I would assume 95% purity. A lot of us including myself get this from online sellers
 

Tliguors

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Awesome. I planned to do 60mg

To total volume is 650. There’s probably 300 pounds of live rock and about another 50 pounds of media.

How much should I dose. I was thinking around 500 gallons worth. Should be about 30 grams
 

ReefWithCare

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Awesome. I planned to do 60mg

To total volume is 650. There’s probably 300 pounds of live rock and about another 50 pounds of media.

How much should I dose. I was thinking around 500 gallons worth. Should be about 30 grams

I wouldn’t dose CP with live rock. Is that your display tank or are you sacrificing a piece of Live Rock in your QT? That’s a big tank [emoji50]
 

Tliguors

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I don’t really have a choice. I don’t have a tank big enough to hold all my livestock
 

pecan2phat

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I’ve been using the New Life Spectrum Ick Shield. While some say it’s not pure, it’s worked for me and I don’t have to beg a vet for a script.
 

Tliguors

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So I had gotten the new life spectrum ick shield and it has been in the system for almost two weeks. My purple tang is still showing the same signs but is eating very well. The rest of my fish are fine. I haven’t noticed any algae die off. Just a few nassarus snails. How do I know if I need more or if I should pull the medication from the tank and dose the plain CP I got a few days ago. And what’s the best way to pull that out. Is it the same as turn the uv on and dose carbon and water changes?
 

pecan2phat

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How much did you dose for your 500g water volume?
In the post above, you mentioned 30 grams but we don't really know if the medication is absorbed by aragonite material.
 

Andyrm66

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So if I set up a qt tank and run CP in it and treat all incoming fish. What do I need to do before QT corals in same tank. Will running good quality carbon removing all of it from the water? Any residual on the glass/plastic like with copper to worry about?
 

jasonrusso

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So if I set up a qt tank and run CP in it and treat all incoming fish. What do I need to do before QT corals in same tank. Will running good quality carbon removing all of it from the water? Any residual on the glass/plastic like with copper to worry about?
I think that good carbon should remove it. Whatever is left in the silicone or glass should be negligible.
 

rkpetersen

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CP also degrades when exposed to light. Fish should be QTed in low ambient light. Switching to coral-level lighting over the QT would then further degrade any residual medication.
 

DTz

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ive just started cp treatment on my qt.can i just do a complete water change after 30 days and leave my fish on the same tank they were treated for velvet for monitoring? @Humblefish
 

Angryminer_07

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Chloroquine phosphate: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium), Brooklynella hostilis & Uronema marinum.

How To Treat - Chloroquine phosphate (CP) is a “new drug” that actually was widely used to control external protozoa in saltwater aquariums back in the 70s & 80s. It was even used in some aquarium medications sold at LFS. Nowadays CP requires a prescription to purchase legitimately, making it more difficult to obtain. Fast forward to today and thanks to the power of the Internet, CP has come roaring back! The biggest obstacle to overcome is obtaining pharmaceutical grade 99% pure CP. I cannot stress the importance of this enough. Do not buy it from some guy on eBay or even an online vendor. The only way to be sure you are getting 99% pure CP is to get your vet (or an MD) to write a prescription which can then be filled by a compounding pharmacy.

CP is a “one and done” medication, meaning you dose once and that’s it. There are no test kits for CP, so it’s important that you dose accurately using a digital scale. Also, don’t forget to dose any replacement water (from water changes, but not top-off) with CP. The dosage rates are as follows:
  • Prophylactic treatment is 40 mg per gallon.
  • For active infections (visible symptoms present), I typically will up the dosage to 60mg/gal. However, I cannot say if this is anymore effective than the "standard" 40mg/gal dose.
  • For Uronema marinum and really bad infestations, you can dose up to 80mg/gal. However, I have noticed appetite suppression and lethargy at this concentration. :oops:
As you can see, there is quite a bit of wiggle room between the minimum & maximum dosage. Practically speaking, 40mg/gal will treat all external protozoa issues… its just that the higher dosages may get the job done a little faster. Treatment lasts 30 consecutive days, and no carbon, UV, etc. may be used during this time (although it can be used later when you wish to remove the medication from the water.) A little quirk about CP is that light will degrade it; however it appears this mainly applies to the powder itself, so store your CP in a cool, dark place. Once in water, you may use an aquarium light with CP - however fish with velvet are light sensitive so I would only use ambient lighting (ex. lamp across the room) if treating for that. CP is NOT reef safe. In addition to killing your corals, it is a very strong algaecide.

Pros - Gentle on most fish (see DO NOT USE list below), a “one and done” medication that treats most external protozoa. CP is the closest thing there is to a “wonder drug” in our hobby.

Cons/Side Effects - Expensive, hard to get (requires a prescription), powder is heat & light sensitive - so store in a cool, dark place. Attempts to feed CP laced food are usually not successful due to its bad metallic taste.

** Based upon anecdotal experience (mine and others), DO NOT USE CP on Anthias, Wrasses or Hippo Tangs. For the time being, chelated copper (exs. Coppersafe, Copper Power) is the best alternative to use on these species. **

** Finally, a place to buy Chloroquine: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/a-place-to-buy-chloroquine.252610/ **

** Special thanks to @svogun for providing this link, which can be used to find aquatic vets in your area for sourcing CP: http://www.aquavetmed.info/ **

Humblefish, This may have been addressed previously but I can’t seem to find the info. How do you deal with ammonia build up while the CP is in the tank for 30 days? With the biological filter gone, shouldn’t it climb fast?
 

rkpetersen

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Humblefish, This may have been addressed previously but I can’t seem to find the info. How do you deal with ammonia build up while the CP is in the tank for 30 days? With the biological filter gone, shouldn’t it climb fast?

Humblefish is unfortunately currently unavailable. My experience is that CP doesn't kill a healthy biofilter.
 

pecan2phat

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Correct, if you have an established bio-filter, CP will not decimate it.
It's a problem when you try to setup the QT from scratch and even with bacteria in a bottle, CP in the water column will present as a problem in regards to ammonia IME.
 

Angryminer_07

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Correct, if you have an established bio-filter, CP will not decimate it.
It's a problem when you try to setup the QT from scratch and even with bacteria in a bottle, CP in the water column will present as a problem in regards to ammonia IME.
Cool. Thought I saw that it did. Great to hear.
 
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