Came home and my torch and hammer looked like this. What’s going on.
First one is receding and second one is dying. Once algae sets in like that its not coming back typically. We would need full tank parameters and age of the tank to try and help determine the cause but it obvious you are in a GHA ugle stage.
Came home from what, the store? work? vacation? 4 years in the army?
The only way to know is to go through all the possibilities and cross them off one by one, to do that we need all the info on the tank
The only way to know is to go through all the possibilities and cross them off one by one, to do that we need all the info on the tank
MnFish1
10K Club member
The coral looks stressed - (one) and dying or mostly dead (the other) - It would help to get more information - how long have you had, parameters, etc etc.
This is exactly why I don’t like coming home. Same thing happens to me every time.
Sorry
Zach62727
Community Member
Just posted water test. I know the phosphates are high but nothing else is wrong. I have algae because of them and am pulling algae from the tank every other day. The algae growth has almost stopped and I am at this point just pulling the rest out of the tank. The tank is just over a year old and I’ve had problems the entire time with phosphates. I’ve tried tons of different bacteria and cleaning methods but none seem to work. It’s an AIO.
Your test result is like 2 months old so not relevant. For LPS you want nitrates at 10 to 15 and phosphate. 05 to .1. Low to moderate flow depending on the coral and 100 to 250 par depending on the LPS coral.
If you have a GHA outbreak cut lights to 6 hours with blue and uv only no whites. Get diverse cleaner crew with tuxedo urchin and turbo. Lots of manual removal with weekly water changes and increase magnesium to 1500
MnFish1
10K Club member
It's easy to fix phosphates - just do water changes.
MnFish1
10K Club member
I would ask you Lavey - the sun is 'white light'. So on the surface - doesn't make sense. It's a nutrient issue IMHO. However you're right IMHO - Cutting lights without increasing water changes will not work.
Almost. I went to the market and forgot to get her half gallon of whole milk.
LaloJ
Well-Known Member
You are attaching a level test from a couple of months ago, that test seems to have been done by some lfs in your area, so you should try to get your own tests and use them on your tank routinely to get an exact check from your reef tank, just my humble opinion.
littlefoxx
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Whats your hear at? I had a horrible heat spike in mine that did that to my hammer and torches and they died from it
Nutrients are always the first thing to consider with lights and flow secondary. To much light euphyllia receed. Not enough light euphyllia extend and reach. Corals don't need or use white light. It's for our viewing pleasure and can help elevate par if that is needed. I recently discovered how even though I thought my flow was moderate my euphyllia were struggling. Went I decreased down so I had low flow on the bottom LPS took off with growth. I keep my MP40s 3 inches below the surface so my SPS still get nice mixed flow by corals like my hammers at the bottom get low flow which resulted in 2 heads now 6 heads in past few months.
So to answer your question, yes Nutrients first then focus on lights and flow if corals still struggling.
Water changes actually do very little to lower phosphates because it's bound in the rocks and sand. Whatever amount you remove in the water exchange is quickly replenish with leaching phosphates from rock and sand. Certain chemical media obviously help but modifying the intake amount you add to the tank is essential along with good export via skimmer. Fuge, etc... a lot of tanks run perfectly with elevated phosphates. I think it depends on your nitrates levels and having enough corals to support the higher level and an established biome that can deter nuisance algae even though the level is elevated. Mine read .22. Today.
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