Calling Ecotech VorTech Experts

redfishbluefish

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I’m old, so all my equipment is old. I have antique MP40’s (2005-2006) and one of my controllers crapped out…..blinking red/green. I’ve tried every “holding buttons” combination, and this has done nothing. Here is the MP40 controller I have (on the left) with an MP10 controller on the right.

Vortech Controllers.jpg


Now, as the picture shows, I have an extra MP10 controller. Opening them up, the plugs are the same. But now my question…..Can I use the MP10 controller with my old MP40 dryside? I’m a little concerned just plugging it in, afraid I’d potentially burn up the electronics in the controller and/or dryside.
 

Saltyreef

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I’m old, so all my equipment is old. I have antique MP40’s (2005-2006) and one of my controllers crapped out…..blinking red/green. I’ve tried every “holding buttons” combination, and this has done nothing. Here is the MP40 controller I have (on the left) with an MP10 controller on the right.

Vortech Controllers.jpg


Now, as the picture shows, I have an extra MP10 controller. Opening them up, the plugs are the same. But now my question…..Can I use the MP10 controller with my old MP40 dryside? I’m a little concerned just plugging it in, afraid I’d potentially burn up the electronics in the controller and/or dryside.
It should work. The controllers are all the same between vortechs and vectras.

You can also upgrade to a new quietdrive controller for like $50 too.
 
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redfishbluefish

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@Saltyreef thanks for the reply. So today was the day I finally got around to looking into this issue. I switched out the controllers and to my disappointment the MP10 controller was blinking red. So I did the proverbial "hold the mode until it starts to blink white, and then hold the mode and set until it blinks white / yellow." Well, holding just the mode button did absolutely nothing!!! So I unplugged the power and re-plugged and tried again. Same thing...nothing. Unplugged the entire thing from power and dryside and looked at it closely. Sprayed with "red juice", an electrical contact spray, and plugged it all back together, but used the power plug from another controller that was closer....serendipitous choice......and it worked. IT WAS THE POWER SUPPLY. I plugged the old, original controller in with this other power supply, and it immediately worked. Luckily I have backup power supplies and I'm now working on putting in a new power supply. YEAH!
 
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redfishbluefish

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I've replaced a number of power supplies on some of the Vortechs I have, but this one was an original from 2005/2006. It was putting out 16 - 17 volts, pulsing like a heart beat. I'm using my last backup, and if anyone is interested, I order THIS POWER SUPPLY from Jameco. Since the last time I ordered, the price has dropped from $16 to $13 dollars. I was going to order two more, but think I'll make it three. Can't hurt to have a few more spares. For those who might consider this power supply, note these do not have a ferrite bead....that little cylinder thingy near the end of the power cord that plugs into the controller.

cable-cylinder.jpeg


I've noticed no difference in using these power supplies without the EMI filters. Works just fine and is a fraction of the price of an Ecotech branded power supply. :cool: Yep, I'm cheap! Oh, and one more thing, it doesn't come with a power cord.....just use the one from your old power supply....it's the same one. Otherwise you'll need to order a new cord for a couple bucks.
 
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redfishbluefish

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The story continues……

So I’m thinking I’ll be saving 3 bucks a piece on these new power supplies with the price drop. Now I should point out that I’ve ordered from Jameco a number of times. I go to check out and they now include $7.38 for “Tariff Surcharge” (never had that before) and $13.44 for shipping….so an extra $20.82. I’ve held off ordering because they are sending me a 10 percent coupon.

The other thing that hit me is that I replaced the bearing in the dryside about a year ago. I documented that bearing change in THIS THREAD, with the primary reason being the dryside extremely hot. After the bearing change the dryside was still warm. But now, after a bunch of hours since the power brick was installed, it’s down right room temperature….no heat. So, although it was whining a bit and needed new bearings, I’ve got to believe the heat issue was exacerbated by the low voltage!!!
 

Saltyreef

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The story continues……

So I’m thinking I’ll be saving 3 bucks a piece on these new power supplies with the price drop. Now I should point out that I’ve ordered from Jameco a number of times. I go to check out and they now include $7.38 for “Tariff Surcharge” (never had that before) and $13.44 for shipping….so an extra $20.82. I’ve held off ordering because they are sending me a 10 percent coupon.

The other thing that hit me is that I replaced the bearing in the dryside about a year ago. I documented that bearing change in THIS THREAD, with the primary reason being the dryside extremely hot. After the bearing change the dryside was still warm. But now, after a bunch of hours since the power brick was installed, it’s down right room temperature….no heat. So, although it was whining a bit and needed new bearings, I’ve got to believe the heat issue was exacerbated by the low voltage!!!
This has also been documented with vectras on battery backup using the DC cable.
People say the pumps get hot. I havent experimented with my vortechs backup cable yet but now thinking to wire it up to inverted A/C backup vs straight to the 12v battery.
 
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redfishbluefish

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Change of plans....ordered three of THESE power supplies from Amazon...and they'll be here tomorrow.
 

Lbrdsoxfan

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Change of plans....ordered three of THESE power supplies from Amazon...and they'll be here tomorrow.
I'm using something similar for my 2 older mp40's. They are 2014-2015 vintage but they are on the second supply in both cases (lost one & one died).
 
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