Buying New fish. Trying to prevent another velvet outbreak.

[Noob_Sam]

Watch the spot closely, if it is still there after 36 hours, it probably isn't ich. If it goes away, but new spots pop up, then ich is more likely.

Jay

Oh ok i see. Well how about my blue tang? is it ich or velvet? Also Yesterday night before i turn off the lights he was covered with white spots and this morning he only has a couple of dots. Also I think he has "black ich" This morning he had some white spots on his black body and some black/brown spots on his blue body. So can I use Copper Power and Prazi together? Because when I looked up black ich its a worm and prazi kills it. Or should I wait?
Thanks,
Sam

 

[Jay Hemdal]

So - there is a big issue for me to reply to two different threads at the same time about the same tank...at any given point, I have a dozen active threads and I tend to lose track(grin).
Prazi does not work well on black ich, a turbellarian worm. That is also very slow to kill (if it even does), so if the fish have Cryptocaryon, regular ich, that should be dealt with first using copper and a good test kit (or better yet the Hanna checker).
It is very common for the ich trophonts to come and go on the fish as the infection gets ramped up.

Jay

 

[treedog5]

But WHY??? why did you not do the full quranitine on the coral beauty?? You had a plan laid out about your quarantine process and then you broke away from it, now all the fish in your display is at risk..

 

[Noob_Sam]

But WHY??? why did you not do the full quranitine on the coral beauty?? You had a plan laid out about your quarantine process and then you broke away from it, now all the fish in your display is at risk..

Wait wait hold up. I think you misunderstood what happened. So after 3 days in QT my coral beauty had fungus and ich. So I left him in there until he had nothing on his body for 4 days straight. Then i moved him to my DT. I dont think he brought anything to my DT. I looked at the dot this morning and it seems that it got smaller; i am thinking that its just a scratch because he nips at the rocks all day and goes up, down and through the rocks so yeah. For my blue tang he was never in my DT I just got him so he had velvet and worms for my lfs. But yeah My main question is that can I use both prazi and copper at the same time.

 

[Noob_Sam]

@treedog5 Also my Coral Beauty was in a QT with copper power @2.0

 

[treedog5]

Ok, I was just reading your plan and it sounded like you deviated from it so I was concerned that you put your display at risk.

 

[Noob_Sam]

Ok, I was just reading your plan and it sounded like you deviated from it so I was concerned that you put your display at risk.

omgg this blue tang!!! Ok now he has these blue ink like spots. I dont think its a worm or a parasite. Maybe because of the copper? I just checked on him and half of the white spots are gone and I only see a few black spots now Do you know anything about this or maybe tag someone that knows thanks

 

[Noob_Sam]

omgg this blue tang!!! Ok now he has these blue ink like spots. I dont think its a worm or a parasite. Maybe because of the copper? I just checked on him and half of the white spots are gone and I only see a few black spots now Do you know anything about this or maybe tag someone that knows thanks

Oh wait maybe thats his body recovering from ick. Because the blue ink like spots are where the ick used to be at.

 

[treedog5]

I can only recommend @Humblefish .

 

[Noob_Sam]

Bump

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Sorry - I think I missed responding to these pics from last night - yes, that appears to be a classic case of ich.

Jay

 

[Noob_Sam]

Sorry - I think I missed responding to these pics from last night - yes, that appears to be a classic case of ich.

Jay

Yeah. Well more than 80% of the spots went away now. I will leave him in there for 2ish more weeks and then, 2 weeks of prazi just to make sure he does not have any worms and then 1 week of observation. Hopefully he will be fine Thanks for all the help and advice Jay. Also is it normal that he hides all the time? (in his PVC pipe) Also he acts dead when I come up to the tank which is really funny. Because the moment I put my hand in the tank he swims up as fast at he can to eat lol.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Some Hepatus tangs are kind of flaky like that - they will act like they are dying during a FW dip, and some will act odd even when just in a tank. I think that part of the issue may stem from the life style of young hepatus - they live in the branches of coral, and don't swim out in the open much like other tangs do. Make sure there are plenty of hiding spots, and that the lights aren't too bright.

Jay

 

[Noob_Sam]

Some Hepatus tangs are kind of flaky like that - they will act like they are dying during a FW dip, and some will act odd even when just in a tank. I think that part of the issue may stem from the life style of young hepatus - they live in the branches of coral, and don't swim out in the open much like other tangs do. Make sure there are plenty of hiding spots, and that the lights aren't too bright.

Jay

Hey Jay, I am watching this video and i have a question. @ 3:46 is that true about what he said? That the ammonia in the bag becomes super toxic once the water gets exposed to oxygen?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

That’s true, but not for the reason stated. In the bag, CO2 builds up which depresses the pH. When you open the bag and starting mixing things, the CO2 is driven off, causing the pH to rise, making the ammonia change to its more toxic form. The fish can die right in the bag, not a week later as stated. Another issue in acclimating is salinity rise. What people sometimes do is to create a replicate of the bag water for pH and salinity, then move the fish over, and acclimate from there, with no ammonia to worry about. His dump acclimation method does work as long as the salinity doesn’t go up. You do NOT need to float a bag for an hour for temperature, 15 to 30 minutes is from be.
Jay

 

[Noob_Sam]

That’s true, but not for the reason stated. In the bag, CO2 builds up which depresses the pH. When you open the bag and starting mixing things, the CO2 is driven off, causing the pH to rise, making the ammonia change to its more toxic form. The fish can die right in the bag, not a week later as stated. Another issue in acclimating is salinity rise. What people sometimes do is to create a replicate of the bag water for pH and salinity, then move the fish over, and acclimate from there, with no ammonia to worry about. His dump acclimation method does work as long as the salinity doesn’t go up. You do NOT need to float a bag for an hour for temperature, 15 to 30 minutes is fine.
Jay

Ok I see. There is sooo much misinformation out there, so that's why I only trust people like you. Thanks jay.

 

[Noob_Sam]

also just a quick update; my coral beauty does not have ich, it was just an air bubble... thank god Also my blue tang now does not have any spots on his body and he is doing well. So I am going to put him in my DT this Sunday.

 

[Noob_Sam]

hey does anyone now any experts in freshwater. I need urgent help. I went to monster fish keeping forums but no one answered and its been a whole day.
Thanks