Bucket Refugium

[Raphael Dalmeida]

Hi all!

My first decent DIY build here.

I was needing to contain the light from my open refugium in my sump, I got inspired by Coral Euphoria channel on YouTube where he came up with the idea for a bucket refugium.

So i build my own to house my Chaetomorpha and all my delicious critters that make that good happy fauna in our tanks.

Cost me AU$114.00 - probably would be cheaper in US Dollars

Here is a photo of it running in my sump:

Photo of it assembled:

Parts list:

1x Flat Duck Nozzle Plastic Bulkhead Connector Fish
Bought from AliExpress for AU$5.00 - used for the inlet

2x Bulkheads
Bought from AliExpress for AU$8.25 - used for the overflow/drain

1x Submersible Pump DC for Marine Aquarium - Model SUNSUN JDP-1500 (Flow 1500L/h)
Bought from AliExpress for AU$50.00

1x 20L Square Bucket with Lid
Bought on Ebay for AU$16.00

1x 54w Led light (customised for best Chaetomorpha Spectrum)
Bought on AliExpress for $AU35.00

Came with a light fixture which i've used to turn on the light and also keep it hanging (to ensure it does not fall in case anything moves or accidents)

Light Spectrum based of Reef2Reef topic:
Best Spectrum for Chaetomorpha by Danna Riddle.

Vendor on AliExpress customised the light for me at no cost, i've chosen 18 3W Leds to be in my light to try match as close as possible the optimum chaetomorpha light spectrum informed on the Reef2Reef topic above.

I had to work with the spectrums the vendor had and match it closely.

I've selected the following 18 leds:
2x Violet (400-420 nm)
4x Blue (460-470 nm)
1x Ice Blue (480-485 nm)
1x Cyan Green (500-505 nm)
1x Green (520-530 nm)
1x Orange (580-590 nm)
6x Red (650-660 nm)
1x Cool White 6000k
1x Warm White 3000k
60 degree lenses so the lights are intense and reach the full depth of the bucket.

I've added Cool White and Warm White as I couldn't find Yellow or Yellow-Green, and a few specific spectrum ranges, so hope the broad range of those 2 leds are able to cater for that.

I just threw the % in chat GPT, mentioned i need to apply it for a fixture with 18 leds, and it gave me the number of lights for each.

The spectrum % which is supposed to be based on is below (extracted from Reef2Reef) post mentioned in link above.

% Violet (400-430) 12.5%
% Blue (431-480) 22.2%
% Green-Blue (481-490) 4.5%
% Blue-Green (491-510) 5.4%
% Green (511-530) 4.2%
% Yellow-Green (531-570) 7.8%
% Yellow (571-580) 1.1%
% Orange (581-600) 5.2%
% Red (601-700) 37.0%



How to build:

Step 1 - Pump Inlet
1x Hole Saw Set and a Cordless Drill to drill the holes for your bulkhead drains and pump inlet in the bucket

I've opted to have 1x small hole for the pump inlet based on the Flat Duck Nozzle i bought (make sure you use the right Hole Saw drill bit for it so it's a snug fit.

This hole i did at the bottom and i point the duck bill up as to send water through the chaetomorpha.

Step 2 - Overflow/Drains

Then drill the holes at the top for your overflow/drain.
I've initially drilled only one hole, but for safety i drilled an additional one in case it gets clogged.
(i might even drill another one just slightly above this over flow - for extra safety).

Then connected the 2 bulkheads on it.

Step 3 - Lid opening for your light

For the lid of the bucket, i've marked the led light seating on top, and cut slightly smaller round hole - so the light could seat on top of the lid (although i have it hanging 0.5cm above the lid)

I've used a PVC Cutter to cut the hole at the top of the bucket, cause i just didn't have a better tool for it.

Step 4 - Testing

At the end i assembled everything, tested it with water first. Then threw it in my sump and have the outlet/drains pointed to my pump chamber.

Additional thoughts:
I will add a few more PVC's connected to the drain to reduce the splashing noise, and maybe some contraption to try reduce salt damage on the lamp (although most likely unavoidable)

I recommend you have something to hang your light fixture as not to seat directly on top of the lid of the bucket, so it doesn't melt the lid and if anything falls or move - the light wont just fall into the water and cause an accident.

On my case i have the hanging kit that came with the light and adjusted it so the light is just slightly above the lid - but not touching it.


Let me know what you guys think and if you have any suggestions.

 

[Raphael Dalmeida]

Also worth mentioning, first thing you should do is get your bucket and test fit it in your sump.

Make sure you measure the opening of your stand and then buy a bucket with appropriate size (height/width) that you will be able to fit in your sump and stand (even if you have to insert it sideways).

The lid needs to be above water and with some clearance for safety (test it with your pumps off - when sump is full beforehand).

 

[twentyleagues]

Nice build. This is how in the past I built overhead refugiums usually using totes. The output was directed into the tanks to allow any pods a direct route to the display instead of going through a return pump.

 

[Raphael Dalmeida]

Nice build. This is how in the past I built overhead refugiums usually using totes. The output was directed into the tanks to allow any pods a direct route to the display instead of going through a return pump.

Thanks man,

Yeah I thought I'd have drains facing the return pump with the hopes that some pods will go to the tank for my mandarin.

I wonder if on my case the pods are small enough to make it alive through the return pump?

 

[GARRIGA]

in the 80s knew two employees from separate LFS that ran Caulerpa in Steralite or Rubbermaid tubs and a shop light. Don’t recall how they plumbed it but likely similar to this. Keep it simple

 

[twentyleagues]

Thanks man,

Yeah I thought I'd have drains facing the return pump with the hopes that some pods will go to the tank for my mandarin.

I wonder if on my case the pods are small enough to make it alive through the return pump?

I am sure most will survive. I noticed in my previous tanks an over all lack of pods in the display but tons in the refugium. I had a lot of pod eaters in the tank so it made sense that id see less in the tank. Once I put in a overhead fuge and it matured I saw a lot more pods in the display. Maybe they resist the pull of the return pump and stay in the fuge area more and the more natural flow of water is easier for them to go with the flow so to speak, or maybe the pump does kill more than we think.

 

[Raphael Dalmeida]

I am sure most will survive. I noticed in my previous tanks an over all lack of pods in the display but tons in the refugium. I had a lot of pod eaters in the tank so it made sense that id see less in the tank. Once I put in a overhead fuge and it matured I saw a lot more pods in the display. Maybe they resist the pull of the return pump and stay in the fuge area more and the more natural flow of water is easier for them to go with the flow so to speak, or maybe the pump does kill more than we think.

Yeah, my display has plenty of pods already, but you know no such a thing as too many pods.

Once in a while when I remove some overgrown chaeto I just rinse a bit on my tank water to let the pods go into my tank before disposing of it.

 

[Raphael Dalmeida]

in the 80s knew two employees from separate LFS that ran Caulerpa in Steralite or Rubbermaid tubs and a shop light. Don’t recall how they plumbed it but likely similar to this. Keep it simple

Exactly, I'm actually glad it was simple, I'm not good with building stuff myself.

Just shows how easy it is to build one of those, super handy as well.

Im surprised there isn't more of those around, first time I saw this was on the coral euphoria YouTube channel.

 

[GARRIGA]

Exactly, I'm actually glad it was simple, I'm not good with building stuff myself.

Just shows how easy it is to build one of those, super handy as well.

Im surprised there isn't more of those around, first time I saw this was on the coral euphoria YouTube channel.

Place any tub over a sump, run a separate pump to feed it and have it drip back to the sump. Just add a light above it. No buckets needed. Very little plumbing. Going to get noisy however. Sometimes simple comes with it's own issues but even the that water could be dripped over sponges and silenced although now adding complexity

 

[Raphael Dalmeida]

Place any tub over a sump, run a separate pump to feed it and have it drip back to the sump. Just add a light above it. No buckets needed. Very little plumbing. Going to get noisy however. Sometimes simple comes with it's own issues but even the that water could be dripped over sponges and silenced although now adding complexity

Haha I had as a plastic tub with small holes before. Worked well and easy. But the light spill was causing algae grow all over my sump

 

[GARRIGA]

Haha I had as a plastic tub with small holes before. Worked well and easy. But the light spill was causing algae grow all over my sump

New IP65 lights can be placed close to the water thereby reducing light spill. Place some black plastic sheets around it and most of the light spill will be contained. Could also make a slit in the pan lid (if available) to place the light so it only shines inside. This would mimic the bucket design.

I know most don't want algae growing in the sump for aesthetic reasons but it is free additional filtration. Form over function often wins, unfortunately.

 

[TheStrangler]

Place any tub over a sump, run a separate pump to feed it and have it drip back to the sump. Just add a light above it. No buckets needed. Very little plumbing. Going to get noisy however. Sometimes simple comes with it's own issues but even the that water could be dripped over sponges and silenced although now adding complexity

Or you could attach short pieces of tubing to the return into the tank and have no noise