BTA in new tank

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valley

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Hello all, the nem does open up during the daytime but it sometimes closes its lower tentacles for a few minutes and then brings them back out. Here are pics of it being open and then closing half way. Im not sure if this is normal but the good thing is that it is doing it less often now so I guess it does need more time! Thanks for the help!

As for feeding, I see that most people online that recommend not feeding it also mention that the nems get leftover food that is not eaten by the fish and that manages to fall on them or that their host clownfish would feed it. I don't have any fish and I’m only feeding my coral twice a week. I would prefer to not feed it but I don’t want it die on me and foul my entire tank.

I guess the closing at night thing is pretty normal but would it do continue to do this once a clownfish is hosting it? Or is this something that’ll also get better with time? It closed 100% last night and it then opened up a bit and then did this over and over again throughout the night.

My phosphate is at .13 and my nitrate is usually at .2. I do have a gha problem but I’m working on it with water changes and manual removal.

IMG_3122.jpeg IMG_3123.jpeg
 

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I guess the closing at night thing is pretty normal but would it do continue to do this once a clownfish is hosting it? Or is this something that’ll also get better with time? It closed 100% last night and it then opened up a bit and then did this over and over again throughout the night.
It will do what ever it wants. Bubble, stretch out, fall over limp, look like it's eating itself and blow up like a balloon with piece of tentacle sticking out. It's one of the things that makes them fun yet frustrating to keep.
nems.jpg
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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sometimes closes its lower tentacles for a few minutes and then brings them back out.
TOTALLY NORMAL
I don’t want it die on me and foul my entire tank.
The main way they do this is by getting chopped up in powerheads...
I guess the closing at night thing is pretty normal but would it do continue to do this once a clownfish is hosting it?
Yes, they may close even when THEY are hosting a clown.
Or is this something that’ll also get better with time?
It won't get "better" because it isn't "bad" in the first place.
My phosphate is at .13 and my nitrate is usually at .2.
Raise your nitrates, either by adding more food to the tank or reducing nutrient export. Many of your corals will slowly decline in such a low nutrient environment.
 

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Raise your nitrates, either by adding more food to the tank or reducing nutrient export. Many of your corals will slowly decline in such a low nutrient environment.
**Especially your expensive torches...
Your tank is young for nems, torches, and other corals that need stability. A tiny tank that's only 4 months old will naturally be somewhat unstable... especially one that apparently has not gone through the ugly stage

I'm not trying to be negative, but be prepared for issues when you move too quickly. Patience is the most important thing in this hobby.
 

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I’m just curious why people think anemones do not benefit from feeding. It’s got over half a billion years of evolution under its belt and still has mouth just so it can talk to urchins?
 

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I’m just curious why people think anemones do not benefit from feeding. It’s got over half a billion years of evolution under its belt and still has mouth just so it can talk to urchins?
My thoughts:
In captivity, it is a lot easier to overfeed/stress out the nem by target feeding too often than if you let it capture some extra fish food and filter feed. Even with a mouth (and anus -they gotta poop) their main form of "feeding" comes from photosynthesis.
 
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Yes, they may close even when THEY are hosting a clown.
It won't get "better" because it isn't "bad" in the first place.
Is there any way to get it to stay open at night? What would the clownfish do when it realizes it’s not being protected by its anemone haha?
Raise your nitrates, either by adding more food to the tank or reducing nutrient export. Many of your corals will slowly decline in such a low nutrient environment.
Considering my gha problem, my nitrates are probably higher since the gha is probably consuming a lot of my nitrates. I’m using gfo to keep the phosphate low.
**Especially your expensive torches...
Your tank is young for nems, torches, and other corals that need stability. A tiny tank that's only 4 months old will naturally be somewhat unstable... especially one that apparently has not gone through the ugly stage

I'm not trying to be negative, but be prepared for issues when you move too quickly. Patience is the most important thing in this hobby.
I’m pretty sure this tank has definitely gone through the ugly phase. If you look at one of my first posts; the tank looked way way uglier and green. I also showed how the tank looked throughout the months and it is definitely looking better. Everything is pretty stable though and I haven’t encountered anything fluctuating or moving out the ideal range. I added softies on the second month and lps coral on the third month; so far nothing has died and everything seems happy.

This anemone hasn’t moved since I added it and it’s kept all of its bubbles. I guess I’ll just let it be for now and it can start eating once I add my fish in about two months and eat any leftovers that fall on it.
 

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Maybe consider making a build thead linked to your avatar so we can look at your tank history and advise better. For instance, I see in your early posts you're running an AI Prime over an Evo and you started with live rock (from where) and live sand (bagged "live" sand or ocean live sand), but I don't know much else like your light schedule and intensity and other fun facts.
 

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Out of curiosity m, what is the rationale for RBTAs in established tank only. Does it come down to stability and not having crazy N/P/Alk swings you get in new tanks? Or is there something else less measurable (eg biome), that they need?
 

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Out of curiosity m, what is the rationale for RBTAs in established tank only. Does it come down to stability and not having crazy N/P/Alk swings you get in new tanks? Or is there something else less measurable (eg biome), that they need?

I’ll throw in an anemone on day one if I’m starting with live rock that I cycled in another tank for at least a few weeks. Never had an issue doing this even with more delicate anemones. I think the big problem inexperienced people have is dealing with the uglies with delicate livestock. Couple that with general ignorance and it’s just easier to tell people, “wait a few months”.
 
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Maybe consider making a build thead linked to your avatar so we can look at your tank history and advise better. For instance, I see in your early posts you're running an AI Prime over an Evo and you started with live rock (from where) and live sand (bagged "live" sand or ocean live sand), but I don't know much else like your light schedule and intensity and other fun facts.
Thanks for the advice! Just made one!
 

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Out of curiosity m, what is the rationale for RBTAs in established tank only. Does it come down to stability and not having crazy N/P/Alk swings you get in new tanks? Or is there something else less measurable (eg biome), that they need?
Stability
 

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Is there any way to get it to stay open at night? What would the clownfish do when it realizes it’s not being protected by its anemone haha?
No. You cannot "make" any aquarium animal do what you want... Well, maybe dolphins or seals, lol.
The clowns will be fine. Mine still sleep in "wiggle mode" by the nem even if it's closed.
 

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No. You cannot "make" any aquarium animal do what you want... Well, maybe dolphins or seals, lol.
The clowns will be fine. Mine still sleep in "wiggle mode" by the nem even if it's closed.
Clowns are fine in tanks with nothing to host them...
Alright. It seems do be doing well. Color hasn’t changed, bubbles didn’t leave, and it hasn’t moved. I’ll leave it alone and let it do its thing! Thanks for the help!
 

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