BRS 4 stage ro 7 stage assistance needed.

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Hey all,

I have a 4 stage BRS RO/DI unit. I just purchased the Triple DI saver with TDS meter.

Triple DI Saver Kit with Resin and TDS Meter - Bulk Reef Supply

Includes BRS PRO DI Resins! Triple Deionization Saver canister kit complete with HM Digital Triple Inline TDS Meter & BRS Pro Series Single Bed Cation Resin, Pro Series Single Bed Anion Resin, and Pro Series Mixed Bed Cation Color Changing Resins. This is the perfect add-on to any reverse...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

I've seen videos that say this won't work with the 4 stage. I didn't know that before hand, but does anyone have experience with connecting this to the existing 4 stage? I believe the issue is that after the carbon block it routes to the membrane and then to the DI.

I was thinking I could take the DI stage currently, insert another carbon blocked and then just connect the 3 stage DI canisters.

Evidently there is an issue with going through carbon, membrane, carbon, then DI stages.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Definitely don't need the extra carbon block. However there's no reason why you can't have 4 stages of DI.

I'm not familiar with the stuff brs pedals. But I'm assuming the 3 stage you're getting is a cation, anion and a mix bed?

I would simply add the last stage as a mix bed and call it good. Better yet spectrapure offers a max cap that you can add that will prolong life expectancy of your di.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Definitely don't need the extra carbon block. However there's no reason why you can't have 4 stages of DI.

I'm not familiar with the stuff brs pedals. But I'm assuming the 3 stage you're getting is a cation, anion and a mix bed?

I would simply add the last stage as a mix bed and call it good. Better yet spectrapure offers a max cap that you can add that will prolong life expectancy of your di.

Yes, you are correct on the Cation, Anion, and Mix bed DI. So the extra carbon block wouldn't help?

Appreciate the help!

 

[dangles]

You are correct. After the carbon block it goes to the RO membrane, then the mixed bed DI.

Unless I'm missing something, I don't see any reason you can't make it work though. You'd have to re-route some of the tubes, and re-purpose the mixed-bed DI canister that came with the 4-stage, but that's not a big deal.

I would just convert the current mixed bed DI to another carbon block, reroute the first carbon block to the (new) second, THEN take that to the RO membrane, THEN add the triple DI saver kit AFTER the RO. The triple TDS on the upgrade kit can remain how it came from the factory I believe.

The setup might be a bit "weird" but it would work all the same.

Hopefully that makes sense! Somebody correct me if I'm wrong

 

[dangles]

Alternatively you could leave the original mixed bed as-is, and plug the new 3-stage DI right before that - essentially just having a second mixed bed at the very end. Like sisterlimonpot said.

Personally I'd rather have 2 carbon blocks than a second mixed bed, though.

 

[billyocean]

You could run 5 micron sediment to 1 sediment to 1 carbon then membrane then 3 stage resin. Or sediment to carbon to carbon to membrane then 3 stage di. You can use the same size or different size blocks. Some people use 2 one micron carbon blocks and when the first one needs changing they move the second one to the number one spot and put the newer one in the second spot.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Appreciate it everyone.

Yes, I like the two carbon blocks myself.

I'll take a look in a bit and see if I can reroute everything.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

 

[billyocean]

Appreciate it everyone.

Yes, I like the two carbon blocks myself.

I'll take a look in a bit and see if I can reroute everything.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

Off topic kind of but you do have a flush valve right?

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Off topic kind of but you do have a flush valve right?

I actually do not. Should I? One didn't come on the 4 stage.

 

[billyocean]

I actually do not. Should I? One didn't come on the 4 stage.

Yes. It's advised to run with flush valve open for 5-10inutes before and after use to extend your membrane life and thusly di resin. I noticed quite a bit of added longevity after I installed mine.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

I'll add that, thanks.

 

[dangles]

I second the flush valve. The auto-flush valve takes the human forgetfulness factor out of it. Highly recommend that.

 

[billyocean]

I second the flush valve. The auto-flush valve takes the human forgetfulness factor out of it. Highly recommend that.

That would be better. I need to get an auto and stop being a caveman..lol

 

[dangles]

I just looked at them... I had no idea they were that expensive! I ordered the upgraded RODI system to begin with and that came with it so the cost was baked in.

 

[billyocean]

Reverse Osmosis Membrane Flush Valve - Bulk Reef Supply

The Membrane Flush/Flow restrictor valve is an all in one flow restrictor equipped with a flush valve for easy worry free use. Keeping the flush and flow restrictor in a single package keeps fitting count down which means less chance for possible leaks or failures down the line. 550 mL/min for...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

These are the manual ones and are cheap if the auto is too pricey. Just match the flow restrictor to your needs. It is easy to forget about it doing it manually though.

 

[KStatefan]

You can remove the DI canister on your original system and rotate it 90 degrees and connect it to your orginal prefilters to allow the sediment-carbon1-carbon2 setup.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

You can remove the DI canister on your original system and rotate it 90 degrees and connect it to your orginal prefilters to allow the sediment-carbon1-carbon2 setup.

Thanks for the info. Going to check that out shortly.

 

[Blue Spot Octopus]

If you have a Carbon 1 micron and a .5 micron which one goes first after the sediment?
Matrikx 4 Stage RO (no DI) Replacement Filter Kit

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

If you have a Carbon 1 micron and a .5 micron which one goes first after the sediment?
Matrikx 4 Stage RO (no DI) Replacement Filter Kit

A 1/2 or a 5 micron?

If it's a half I would install the 1 micron first and then the 1/2 second.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

@Sisterlimonpot @dangles @billyocean @KStatefan just wanted to say a big thank you, for helping me wrap my mind around this!

I pulled then 4 stage out of the floor and put it up in the counter to where I could see it good. It wasn't nearly as difficult as I thought it was going to be. I virtually just disconnected the 3rd canister mixed DI, replaced with a second carbon block. Then plumbed that 3rd block to the Membrane and then plumbed the membrane outlet to the new DI stages.

All is well and 0 TDS. I was already getting 0, but my mixed DI was only lasting about 4 months. I will add the auto flush valve as well, it's on order. Already have the Aquatec booster pump and that's the best $150.00 anyone can spend. It took my pressure from 30psi to a little over 80psi that I adjusted. It would take it higher than that, but I'm good with around 80

Thanks again everyone.