Brown slime in sump

[Subsea]

OK so I absolutely have a learning disability i misread my mag test. So current parameters are

Alkalinity 9.5
Calcium 460
Mag 975
Ph 8.2
Nitrate 7

I assume those parameters are display tank water after a partial water change. If you had measured your fresh mixed batch, I would expect a higher magnesium number and zero nitrate.

What is your normal water change schedule?

 

[GARRIGA]

Time to get new reagents if those are 7 years old. Test kits would still work.

Might want to take a sample to an LFS and have them double check. Even new reagents can be off plus user error is a thing.

Before replacing water. Consider lowering new salt to tank alkalinity. Sodium bisulfate or just buy SeaChem Acid Buffer and follow directions. Going to lower pH because it converts carbonates to co2 but some aeration will correct that to equalize with room co2.

Easier to correct replacement water.

As for the brown slime. Could be bacterial from using products that carbon. That’s what’s in NoPox previously mentioned. Would lower nitrates as well as pH.

 

[Dan_P]

Hey everyone first time posting to the forum. I've read it and looked for advice for a long time. I have a 9 month old mixed reef tank. I've noticed over the past 3 or 4 weeks my filter socks have been clogging badly. Well tonight I heard them overflowing and found this thick brown slime all over the socks. It's so thick they where holding water. I am dosing manually to maintain my levels. Calcium every other day, mag every day levels are low and I'm trying to get them up. Plus a little baking soda every 4 or 5 days to maintain alkalinity. Parameters are:
Alkalinity 10
Calcium 380
Magnesium 450
Ph 8.2
Nitrate 7

Pictures of display and sump socks.

My impression is that the slime is bacteria growth. Not sure. What color is the stuff growing on the surface of the back glass?

 

[bigbsreef]

I assume those parameters are display tank water after a partial water change. If you had measured your fresh mixed batch, I would expect a higher magnesium number and zero nitrate.

What is your normal water change schedule?

I neglected changes. I realized my error when I started testing. Decided on 30 gallon changes one each week for 4 weeks to get my tank back up. Then my plan is 10 gallon changes every week and adjust based on performance.

 

[bigbsreef]

Time to get new reagents if those are 7 years old. Test kits would still work.

Might want to take a sample to an LFS and have them double check. Even new reagents can be off plus user error is a thing.

Before replacing water. Consider lowering new salt to tank alkalinity. Sodium bisulfate or just buy SeaChem Acid Buffer and follow directions. Going to lower pH because it converts carbonates to co2 but some aeration will correct that to equalize with room co2.

Easier to correct replacement water.

As for the brown slime. Could be bacterial from using products that carbon. That’s what’s in NoPox previously mentioned. Would lower nitrates as well as pH.

Thank you for the advice. This was actually my goal. I don't dose any carbon. Currently I filled my filter sock side of sump with floss. I'm going to let this go then replace with socks again and see growth.

 

[bigbsreef]

My impression is that the slime is bacteria growth. Not sure. What color is the stuff growing on the surface of the back glass?

It's a combination of brown and clear

 

[Subsea]

I neglected changes. I realized my error when I started testing. Decided on 30 gallon changes one each week for 4 weeks to get my tank back up. Then my plan is 10 gallon changes every week and adjust based on performance.

How big is your system?

Consider that you are building up DOC which is a normal byproduct of photosynthesis. And DOC will grow bacteria.

@bigbsreef

DOC is The Most Important Parameter For A Healthy Reef Tank: Here’s a New Method to Manage It | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

In this article, I will provide an overview of my take on the current zeitgeist of reefing and explain why the entire industry is ignoring a critical aspect of coral care. I will explain what issues…

reefbuilders.com

 

[Tavero]

OK so I absolutely have a learning disability i misread my mag test. So current parameters are

Alkalinity 9.5
Calcium 460
Mag 975
Ph 8.2
Nitrate 7

These are a lot more reasonable and actually physically possible. I still don't fully believe all of them.
Have you tested freshly mixed salt water like we told you to?

It's a combination of brown and clear

Your slime is likely some kind of carbonate pericipitation as I've already mentioned. Fix your water parameters first then worry about that filter sock.

 

[Tavero]

How big is your system?

Consider that you are building up DOC which is a normal byproduct of photosynthesis. And DOC will grow bacteria.

@bigbsreef

DOC is The Most Important Parameter For A Healthy Reef Tank: Here’s a New Method to Manage It | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

In this article, I will provide an overview of my take on the current zeitgeist of reefing and explain why the entire industry is ignoring a critical aspect of coral care. I will explain what issues…

reefbuilders.com

There is nothing in op tank that should produce doc and bacteria in this amount seen in that filter sock.

 

[bigbsreef]

These are a lot more reasonable and actually physically possible. I still don't fully believe all of them.
Have you tested freshly mixed salt water like we told you to?




Your slime is likely some kind of carbonate pericipitation as I've already mentioned. Fix your water parameters first then worry about that filter sock.

OK so I tested a fresh batch of water and had a deviation in the test and bucket. My alk was 1.5 dkh off. I didn't test my mag or calc in it, those are brand new tests i just purchased. So I decided to make the hour trip to my lfs and have them test my water. Parameters where
Ph 8
phos .2
Nitrate 0
Alkalinity 8.6
Mag 1541... more on this
Calcium 373

OK so here's my question i am using a brand new salifert mag test and can't get the same reading. My current level is 1050 according to my test verified twice. I feel like I'm losing my mind with these tests. Do I just trust my test and continue? Or is there something in missing. I know the electric tests are expensive but are they more reliable?

 

[Miami Reef]

Don’t test magnesium. In fact, throw the kit out.

1) Use a reef-brand salt when making saltwater (instant ocean is a very reliable brand)

2) Make sure salinity is around 35ppt

If you did the above, magnesium will be on target.

 

[Tavero]

OK so I tested a fresh batch of water and had a deviation in the test and bucket. My alk was 1.5 dkh off. I didn't test my mag or calc in it, those are brand new tests i just purchased. So I decided to make the hour trip to my lfs and have them test my water. Parameters where
Ph 8
phos .2
Nitrate 0
Alkalinity 8.6
Mag 1541... more on this
Calcium 373

OK so here's my question i am using a brand new salifert mag test and can't get the same reading. My current level is 1050 according to my test verified twice. I feel like I'm losing my mind with these tests. Do I just trust my test and continue? Or is there something in missing. I know the electric tests are expensive but are they more reliable?

Why do you have such an aversion against fully testing freshly mixed salt water? It's obvious you're having issues using the tests kits so you should even practise with them on any opportunity you can get. You still don't know the difference of you freshly mixed water and the tank one.
Well we can't force you. You do you.

Don’t test magnesium. In fact, throw the kit out.

1) Use a reef-brand salt when making saltwater (instant ocean is a very reliable brand)

2) Make sure salinity is around 35ppt

If you did the above, magnesium will be on target.

Please don't suggest inexperienced members to throw away their equipment. Especially when that equipment is new.
While magnesium tests may be inaccurate, they aren't completely useless.

 

[Miami Reef]

Please don't suggest inexperienced members to throw away their equipment.

I stand by what I said. In fact, I’m more inclined to suggest people to throw out their magnesium tests if they are inexperienced.

They are fooled by the wrong readings the kits provide. I have the forum’s expert reef chemist to back me up:

Just say NO to magnesium testing: RMM is born

OK, this thread has been many years in the making, and I'm posting it here since folks in the chem forum are probably already tired of all the threads relating to problematic magnesium testing. I'm going to propose a method, let's call it the Randy Magnesium Method, or RMM for short. All good...

www.reef2reef.com

folks in the chem forum are probably already tired of all the threads relating to problematic magnesium testing.

NEVER measure magnesium. If it comes free from an ICP, sure, take a look. It's probably fine anyway. Don't buy or use a kit. Chances are the results are not very reliable, and most of the time, if there is a value out of the range of acceptable, it is more likely an error of some sort than a real result.

To some this will sound like a joke, but I think many reefers, especially newer reefers, would be better served by RMM than testing and retesting, dosing and redosing and then getting a new kit and testing again. Just a few minutes ago I finished a thread where a kit change gave a 200 ppm difference in magnesium.

Just say no. Exact magnesium levels are just not that important.

 

[Tavero]

I stand by what I said. In fact, I’m more inclined to suggest people to throw out their magnesium tests if they are inexperienced.

They are fooled by the wrong readings the kits provide. I have the forum’s expert reef chemist to back me up:

Just say NO to magnesium testing: RMM is born

OK, this thread has been many years in the making, and I'm posting it here since folks in the chem forum are probably already tired of all the threads relating to problematic magnesium testing. I'm going to propose a method, let's call it the Randy Magnesium Method, or RMM for short. All good...

www.reef2reef.com

I've read Randy's magnesium thread too so I know he never suggested to throw away tests kits. Don't twist Randy's words.
OP obviously has issues with handling test kits and getting a correct reading from them so he needs to figure out how to use these kits by himself. He doesn't believe me that this is a precipitation issue nor does he wants to test his freshly mixed salt water like many suggested.
He needs to figure out by himself that his magnesium levels are fine. He didn't believe me when I said magnesium of 450 is impossible and took a one hour drive to the next lfs. He won't believe you when you tell him measuring magnesium is useless.
It's another opinion in a thread with too many opinions already.

 

[Miami Reef]

I've read Randy's magnesium thread too so I know he never suggested to throw away tests kits. Don't twist Randy's words.
OP obviously has issues with handling test kits and getting a correct reading from them so he needs to figure out how to use these kits by himself. He doesn't believe me that this is a precipitation issue nor does he wants to test his freshly mixed salt water like many suggested.
He needs to figure out by himself that his magnesium levels are fine. He didn't believe me when I said magnesium of 450 is impossible and took a one hour drive to the next lfs. He won't believe you when you tell him measuring magnesium is useless.
It's another opinion in a thread with too many opinions already.

He literally said “never measure magnesium”


What do you even want him to do?

I’m telling him to not measure magnesium and throw the kit out because it’s useless. It’s obviously inaccurate, just like all the other magnesium tests.

 

[Subsea]

There is nothing in op tank that should produce doc and bacteria in this amount seen in that filter sock.

Do you have insight into OP tank, other than what he posted. I looked thru his threads to better understand his circumstances.

Your insistence that slime must be magnesium carbonate as deduced from picture does not convince me. I suspect it could be magnesium carbonate. However, for that to have happened, OP would have had a snowstorm in his tank.

@bigbsreef
I suggest you scrape off the slime from your socks and look at it under a microscope.

 

[Miami Reef]

He doesn't believe me that this is a precipitation issue

It’s not a precipitation issue. Is there evidence of precipitation?

Precipitation will cause a snowstorm and white deposits on pumps and heaters.

Precipitation will crash alkalinity.

Precipitation of calcium carbonate will use 2.3dKH and 18-20ppm calcium and 1-2ppm magnesium.

That’s how precipitation works. You can’t just drop magnesium and not alkalinity.


Also, that slime is bacteria. Some mesh materials grow them better. If it’s soft and slimy, it’s most likely bacteria. I get the same thing in my mesh socks.

You are severely misguided.

 

[bigbsreef]

OK so I've tossed out all my old supplies. I have only new test kits coming. Took my water to my lfs and had it tested. I've backed of any dosing and am sticking to my water change schedule. I appreciate all the info, admittedly I'm very new to this and have a lot to learn. All the insights have been helpful. Currently my slime issue backed down, it's still growing but much slower than before. I agree I got my parameters out of whack and that's probably wheat caused my issue.

 

[Tavero]

Precipitation will cause a snowstorm and white deposits on pumps and heaters.

No it won't necessarily. Perciptation prefers an coagulation point like a filter sock, carbonate crystals or sand. In that case there will be never a deposit anywhere else in the tank and also no snow storm. It's just that this coagulation point can be found usually on heaters but that's not always the case.
If you didn't even know that maybe it's time to refresh your knowledge in chemistry instead of telling others they are severely misguided. It is severely lacking.

Precipitation will crash alkalinity.

Yes it will, unless it is replenished. OP wrote he is dosing several teaspoons of baking soda, calcium and magnesium each other day into a smaller tank with zero consumption. How much exactly? Do you somehow know to dismiss my theory?
There is your proof. Where is yours that this is an bacterial issue? I'm waiting.

OK so I've tossed out all my old supplies. I have only new test kits coming. Took my water to my lfs and had it tested. I've backed of any dosing and am sticking to my water change schedule. I appreciate all the info, admittedly I'm very new to this and have a lot to learn. All the insights have been helpful. Currently my slime issue backed down, it's still growing but much slower than before. I agree I got my parameters out of whack and that's probably wheat caused my issue.

Just stop dosing all together for now. You have nothing in you tank which consumes significant amounts of calcium and alkalinity. Wait for the new test kits before you start dosing again. Also remove the filter socks for now and clean them well. Maybe soak them in a bit of diluted vinegar if you can't remove that brown stuff completely.

 

[Miami Reef]

I don’t even know where to begin. I’m done here. Good luck.