broke head on inline carbon filter

[Ballyhoo]

well, the rodi tubing would not go in tight as it was missing the plastic coupler and I was worried that eventually there would be spillage or emergency situation if got unnoticed, as they tended to fall apart if moved around. So I got the idea that I could takeoff the entire elbow on this carbon filter and just replace it with the spare part. But that's been impossible, the white thing guy destroyed. not sure which filter part to order to replace this one, well not 100% certain. It's the last in line before the HDI in a six stage. Now bypassing it I'm getting 9 TDS. I hope that's good enough until I get a replacement. hoping anybody know exactly what replacement item this one is , frustrating, newb issue.

thanks!

 

[Ballyhoo]

i'm hoping this will replace the filter and get me back down to zero.

 

[208reef]

Is it this?

Alton Water Systems Online Store - AT210NPT, 5th stage inline carbon postfilter

altonwatersystems.com

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

i'm hoping this will replace the filter and get me back down to zero.

That will more likely be fine. Those filters aren't meant to be serviced. At all.

Usem and tossem.

 

[Ballyhoo]

That will more likely be fine. Those filters aren't meant to be serviced. At all.

Usem and tossem.

yes but wanted to mate sure I order the correct one. anyway without it i'm at 7 TDS. IDK

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

yes but wanted to mate sure I order the correct one. anyway without it i'm at 7 TDS. IDK

Look at the visual difference. One has 90 degree John guest fittings, the others go directly into the filter via John guest. Otherwise it's the same thing.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Give us a call and we can get you what you need. 513-312-2343

 

[KStatefan]

You do not need a carbon filter post membrane going into the DI resin.

 

[Ballyhoo]

You do not need a carbon filter post membrane going into the DI resin.

so why did my tDs go up to 9?

 

[KStatefan]

TDS where? Carbon filter does not remove tds.

 

[KrisReef]

You do not need a carbon filter post membrane going into the DI resin.

Agree, this filter is for making drinking water and the carbon is for taste and to remove funk that the di resin might be releasing?

Changing the upline filters and replacing DI resin is/are the common procedures for keeping these filters working properly.

 

[Ballyhoo]

well, that does not explain why without that piece of in-line carbon filter My TDS went up. I was absolutely at zero before and now I'm at range 9 to 12.

 

[Ballyhoo]

also, for the life of me, I cannot figure out why the drain line won't stop dripping. The only thing I can think of is that last little piece of 5 cent adhesive that came in the package dissolved somewhere. Besides that STS is gone way up. besides removing a filter that should have no bearing on the issue of TDS, can someone tell me if it looks like I have everything connected properly??
I'd really appreciate it!! because now the tes rust to 20.

 

[Reefering1]

Run it with flush valve open and see if tds comes back down. It might just be tds creep that you're seeing

 

[Reefering1]

And where's the nut on this drain pipe?

 

[Reefering1]

Where exactly is the drain line leaking? Looks like it is too low on the p trap, which holds water, I don't think this clamp fittings are meant to seal while submerged...

 

[Ballyhoo]

I really appreciate all the feedback I'm getting from all of you members. Thank you very much. Yeah, I put that nut back on the drain pipe but it's still not a tight fit on the drainpipe. I don't know why it's like that. I live in apt. and the reason why I did not place the drain line hardware higher up in the P trap is because this nodules protrude out on the higher part of the P-trap so I don't think I'll be able to make the black bracket fitting flush tight . anyways the long and short of this is since I've just taken the P-trap out and replaced it and place the drain into the sink, everything runs fine and TDS back down to zero. But I really prefer to have the drain line hooked up into the P-trap in case I forget one day about the drain line and I have a flood. I have just failed in all attempts to keep p trap from leaking. The only thing I can think of is came with a little adhesive goes right around the drain line into the shop and I cannot find that adhesive. I don't know how important that was or if it is important if I can somehow make up for it. But you see how if I put the bracket a little bit higher the protruding nodules are sticking out and probably will not allow the bracket to have a tight and flush. Maybe I need a different kind of p trap. Or I Just have to always remember to put the black line into the sink when I run my rodi.

 

[Ballyhoo]

was hoping somebody could take a second look as to why I might have leakage out of my drain line. I know it looks like the drain line is set kind of low, but the bracket is set a little bit lower towards the angle of the p yrap, but the actual line itself is well above the p trap. maybe I should not have bought the cheap P-trap model? I'm just wondering this is one thing I cannot get right on the ro di (and hate to think that one day I forget to put the drain line in the sink) is the drain line into the P-trap without leakage. Maybe some people have photos of their own. also, the leakage is not bubbling up and over the opening of the P trap, but actually coming out around the area of the drain line.

 

[KStatefan]

It looks like the water level will be above the rodi waste line. The water level will be to the bottom of the pipe going into the wall.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Yes - that 1/4" tube should have been plugged into the drain pipe much higher.