Blue Tang - Ich vs Lymphocystis vs Other?

[Obb]

Hi all,

I'm quite new to Saltwater, and the forum. But I have a new blue tang, for 1.5 weeks, no QT tank unfortunately so went into the display tank. The tank overall is about 2 months old approx.

Has been presenting since yesterday with scattered white dots, and slightly more pale coloration especially on the underbelly. The dots and coloration is more noticeable with the lights off, she's usually a bit more pale at night anyway. Not much behaviour change recently, but some flashing this evening for the first time. No increased respiratory rate which I can see, still eating & active.

I have attached a few photos with the lights off, to show the dots. When trying to inspect, it does appear as if she has bumps on the skin (More noticeable when the light is on though). Which makes me think it may not be ich, but rather Lymphocystis, or something else perhaps. There does seem to be one single white dot on the left pectoral fin also and a few on the tail.

The tank is 5FT cade 1500, so 640L total system volume, maybe 560L display volume. There's corals in there so can't treat the tank with any Ich treatments, no QT available but can set one up if needed. Other fish so far look fine, acting normally without any similar bumps/spots.

Parameters
Ammonia: <0.25ppm (Using API, looks ever so slightly green, not quite at 0.25 marking). I'm worried this may be increasing stress but I did do a small water change and dosed prime too.
Nitrite: 0ppm
Nitrate: 0ppm (Was 2.5-5 yesterday)
Temp: 26.8c
Salinity: 34ppt
PH: 8.2
Calcium: 380ppm
Phosphate: 0ppm

Thanks in advance

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hi all,

I'm quite new to Saltwater, and the forum. But I have a new blue tang, for 1.5 weeks, no QT tank unfortunately so went into the display tank. The tank overall is about 2 months old approx.

Has been presenting since yesterday with scattered white dots, and slightly more pale coloration especially on the underbelly. The dots and coloration is more noticeable with the lights off, she's usually a bit more pale at night anyway. Not much behaviour change recently, but some flashing this evening for the first time. No increased respiratory rate which I can see, still eating & active.

I have attached a few photos with the lights off, to show the dots. When trying to inspect, it does appear as if she has bumps on the skin (More noticeable when the light is on though). Which makes me think it may not be ich, but rather Lymphocystis, or something else perhaps. There does seem to be one single white dot on the left pectoral fin also and a few on the tail.

The tank is 5FT cade 1500, so 640L total system volume, maybe 560L display volume. There's corals in there so can't treat the tank with any Ich treatments, no QT available but can set one up if needed. Other fish so far look fine, acting normally without any similar bumps/spots.

Parameters
Ammonia: <0.25ppm (Using API, looks ever so slightly green, not quite at 0.25 marking). I'm worried this may be increasing stress but I did do a small water change and dosed prime too.
Nitrite: 0ppm
Nitrate: 0ppm (Was 2.5-5 yesterday)
Temp: 26.8c
Salinity: 34ppt
PH: 8.2
Calcium: 380ppm
Phosphate: 0ppm

Thanks in advance

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

While identification of fish diseases from a photograph is difficult, it does look like your tang has marine ich, Cryptocaryon. The spots on the body AND the fins points to that, as does the timing.

What other fish are in the tank with it? Ich is very contagious, and once exposed, they will need treatment as well. Normally, the best treatment is either coppersafe or hyposalinity, in a treatment tank with no invertebrates. There is another option, not the best, but it can work:

Ich Management
Starting Ich Management during an active infection only works if the number of trophonts on the fish is below a certain number. Above that number and the trophonts themselves become stressors and the parasite gains a foothold, despite your attempts to manage it. So what is that number? It depends on too many variables - but I start to expect Ich Management to fail if the number of spots on any one fish is above 30 or so.

Here is my protocol for ich management. Please understand that I am NOT presenting this as an optimum method for controlling ich, just putting it out there for people who want to try it. Also, do not pick and choose which items you want to follow - you need to go with all guns blazing and use them all.

“Ich Management” Because many aquarists mix fish and invertebrates, they are ill-prepared to then treat for marine ich, as the two best treatments, amine-based copper or hyposalinity, cannot be used with invertebrates. A popular technique has then arisen, “ich management”. It is popular not because it works well, but because it is an easier alternative. Be forewarned, it often fails if applied during moderate infections. The reason that it exists as a technique at all is because people find themselves in situations like this and are desperate to try anything.

The basic idea is to reduce the infective propagules (tomites) of the ich parasite to the point where the fish's acquired immunity can fight the infection off. This is done through a series of techniques for stress reduction and tomite limiting. Unfortunately, the ich tomites themselves cause stress to the fish, so if the fish have more than 30 or so trophonts on them, the method often fails.

1) Install a powerful UV sterilizer on the aquarium.
2) Ensure that the fish's diet and water quality are the best you can make them.
3) Keep the water temperature close to 78 degrees F.
4) Siphon off the tank floor nightly to remove as many tomonts as possible.
5) Employ strong filtration to trap as many tomites as possible.
6) Try a proprietary "reef safe" marine ich medication. These rarely cure ich infections on their own, but some may have benefit when combined with other management methods. Avoid the herbal remedies, focus on those that contain peroxide salts. There is, however, some evidence that using peroxides with UV does not work, as the UV can break down the peroxides.

Jay

 

[vetteguy53081]

You should have copper power in your country. Also should be seachem cupramine which preferred would be coppersafe. If you get either, get a reliable copper test kit to monitor levels.

 

[Obb]

Thanks everyone. I’ve ordered some QT supplies last night along with copper powder and will get a new tank today plus copper test kit.

Local fish store also suggested hydrogen peroxide in the meantime which I will use, prior to QT and also during, plus copper. They seem confident it is Ich also.

I’ll try catch all fish and treat all, then leave the display tank fishless for a while.

I’m assuming the peppermint shrimp, corals, and trochus snail should be OK to stay in the main tank?
Thanks again