Bishop's DIY 29G build thread....

bob salzlein

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I ended up going with a Eheim 1250, I don't need much flow for the small tank and for reliability it should be pretty decent. I looked at all of the options but most of the DC based pumps did not inspire confidence for reliability. The varios line looks good but since I'm starting from scratch need to get my best bang for my buck, I do agree the DC pumps should be really quiet.

Thanks :)

Now I am trying to decide on whether to go with 2 Aqamai kps powerheads or 1 Red Sea wave 25, the nero 5's look nice but would probably need 2 of them and so once again trying to get my best bang for my buck. Still have decisions to figure out, still need a light which I am probably going to go with the Mars Aqua since I can control it from my reefpi.
You are going to wind to go with the Aqamai - more controllability, and they can be moved in any direction more easily. Plus two pumps are better than one to give better flow and eliminate dead spots.
 
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bishoptf

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You are going to wind to go with the Aqamai - more controllability, and they can be moved in any direction more easily. Plus two pumps are better than one to give better flow and eliminate dead spots.

I went with the Aqamai units, I have 2 of them sitting in the boxes. I figure I can always add another small hydor korilla and control with reefpi to come on and off at certain times to kick up any dead spots, at least that is my plan.

:)
 

Michael Lane

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Yeah I think I am going to do all or as many as I can connections this way, since I have the crimper I can make cables to match, power and all of the connections will be JST_SM except for the DJ powerstrip and the dosing module which I haven't verified but looks to be an RJ-11 jack. Still thinking about that one and the Serial connection to the DJ strip, I thought about splitting the connectors up into 1 5 port and one 4 port but may just run the ribbon cable through the enclosure. Not sure what to do about the rj 45 connection but may do something similar but then would have to keep the connections matched up, still mulling those connections around in my head.

I do have one question about the PH module, it appears to be threaded on the body of the connector, is there a nut that goes with it or do you happen to know the size?

Thanks :)
The pH boards have a threaded connector, but I don't have any washers and nuts on hand currently. The outer diameter is 14mm, but the last batch I ordered was the wrong size. I'm still waiting for the replacements.
 
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bishoptf

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More #reefpi pics..I think octopi might be a better name ;)

IMG_20200419_111755.jpg

IMG_20200419_111806.jpg

IMG_20200419_111815.jpg

More to come...:)
 
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bishoptf

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The pH boards have a threaded connector, but I don't have any washers and nuts on hand currently. The outer diameter is 14mm, but the last batch I ordered was the wrong size. I'm still waiting for the replacements.

Thanks, I have it connected via the standoffs and seems pretty sturdy I do not think I need the nut, will see if it lasts.

@Michael Lane something to think about, I would make the 12v jst-xh board connectors a three prong plug. I know space is tight but just a suggestion, make it a little more goof proof, probably not an issue hooking up 5v on the 12v connection but not sure on the protections if you were to connect 12v on the 5v input. Using a 3 pin connector on the 12v only connections might provide some additional goof proofing. With my cable connections I made the 12v connectors a 5 pin connector even though they only have 2 wires just so I don't connect them incorrectly.

Also started thinking about lighting, I have your Mars Aqua board but thinking of maybe going with an AI Prime unit, I really need 2 of them but could purchase one and then add another one a month later etc. I know you have a few of the Mars Aqua units, what do you like dislike and what do you think might be better with in reason. In my case since its a small tank it allows me to look at other options and was wanting to get your thoughts.

Thanks :)
 

Michael Lane

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Thanks, I have it connected via the standoffs and seems pretty sturdy I do not think I need the nut, will see if it lasts.

@Michael Lane something to think about, I would make the 12v jst-xh board connectors a three prong plug. I know space is tight but just a suggestion, make it a little more goof proof, probably not an issue hooking up 5v on the 12v connection but not sure on the protections if you were to connect 12v on the 5v input. Using a 3 pin connector on the 12v only connections might provide some additional goof proofing. With my cable connections I made the 12v connectors a 5 pin connector even though they only have 2 wires just so I don't connect them incorrectly.

Also started thinking about lighting, I have your Mars Aqua board but thinking of maybe going with an AI Prime unit, I really need 2 of them but could purchase one and then add another one a month later etc. I know you have a few of the Mars Aqua units, what do you like dislike and what do you think might be better with in reason. In my case since its a small tank it allows me to look at other options and was wanting to get your thoughts.

Thanks :)
That's a good idea for the 12v input. I'm working on a design that only uses the 12v input, but I'll have to remember this whenever I work on something else with multiple voltage inputs.

I don't have any experience with the AI Primes, but I've been mostly happy with my Mars Aqua lights. I don't like that the minimum is so bright. I also think the spread is kind of weak, so I had to pack in 6 lights on my 265 gallon tank. I've been happy with them for the price though.
 
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bishoptf

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That's a good idea for the 12v input. I'm working on a design that only uses the 12v input, but I'll have to remember this whenever I work on something else with multiple voltage inputs.

I don't have any experience with the AI Primes, but I've been mostly happy with my Mars Aqua lights. I don't like that the minimum is so bright. I also think the spread is kind of weak, so I had to pack in 6 lights on my 265 gallon tank. I've been happy with them for the price though.

Thanks for the feedback, the 2 110v power inputs on the Mars Aqua is kind of a bummer, I'd rather not have cables running down the back wall if I can avoid it. I could always mount another fixture at light height but then it wouldn't be a controlled outlet, I assume you need the lights to go to a relay outlet to turn off and on, is that correct?

Thanks :)
 
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bishoptf

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Latest pics, still working on #reefpi and cabling the stand, here are some pics of my cabling ideas so far. Since I am going to have an upper drawer to house stuff I wanted some kind of cable arm for the cables to feed the drawer and not hang down, I think it will work fine, may have to tweak things but so far so good.

IMG_20200421_203940.jpg


IMG_20200421_203954.jpg


IMG_20200421_204002.jpg


I will run Line voltage stuff on the bottom and low voltage, sensor based stuff on the upper portion, that is my initial plan but will see how it plays out. If anyone has any questions let me know.

Still trying to figure out which way to go with lighting, AI prime(s) vs mars aqua etc., also trying to figure out what size heaters to go with, want to go with 2 smaller ones and since this is a 30g I was wondering if I could get away with using 2 50w heaters vs 2 100w versions, looking at the aqueon preset version since they are pretty small. where the tank is in the basement it stays pretty consistent temp wise, probably around 10 degrees difference from 78.

Any thoughts let me know, thanks!

:)
 

g_acosta_02

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More Pictures....all 1/2" pvc...used snap and strut for the hangers, modular marine 800PGH overflow, banjo bulkhead for return and spears unions.
IMG_20200403_164122.jpg


Let me just say that plumbing took me the longest, I do not have enough front to back room to place the overflow on the back so I have attached at the one end. It's a modular marine 800gph overflow and i think I have the pipes adjusted to about the right height, took me a day of playing with it to kind of understand how it works.

IMG_20200403_164132.jpg
IMG_20200403_164145.jpg


Close-up of my little support blocks supporting the pipe.

IMG_20200403_164151.jpg


More plumbing...
IMG_20200403_164215.jpg


Not all of my runs are perpendicular, i got better as I went along but still bugs me...:)

Now I am currently working on getting the rest of the parts, return pumps, powerheads, refractometer, reef-pi, etc...I cant seem to make up my mind on the return pump, I only need about 200GPH or less so I don't need something big but trying to find something reliable and quiet. If anyone has any suggestions let me know, I have probably looked at all of them and just can't make up my mind.

More to follow....
Did you buy the sump kit or mad it yourself look awesome. Think of doing something like that in the future but every kit I see comes with filter sock holder, I don't want to use filter socks
 
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bishoptf

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Did you buy the sump kit or mad it yourself look awesome. Think of doing something like that in the future but every kit I see comes with filter sock holder, I don't want to use filter socks

I went with the easy option for the sump, its It's a 20g long pre-made kit from ebay and you have the option for filter sock or strainer. I didn't want to go with the socks either, planning on going with filter floss, I did make a few tweaks like I do to most things but think it should work out pretty well - Sump kit

If you have any questions let me know. :)
 

Michael Lane

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Thanks for the feedback, the 2 110v power inputs on the Mars Aqua is kind of a bummer, I'd rather not have cables running down the back wall if I can avoid it. I could always mount another fixture at light height but then it wouldn't be a controlled outlet, I assume you need the lights to go to a relay outlet to turn off and on, is that correct?

Thanks :)
The 2 outlets can be a bit thick, but you could actually just run a single cable to the outlet, then daisy chain your power from the one you have plugged in to to the other side. This assumes that you don't flip the switch to the off position on the side going to the outlet and that you don't cut power to the side going to the outlet since they are daisy chained.

1587524418849.png


You could use a relay to control the channels on this light, but you could also use a converter circuit to control these lights including on/off without needing a relay. I have some details in my Mars Aqua thread.

If I didn't already have a bunch of these lights, I would probably get the Viparspectra lights instead. It seems like they can dim lower, and the control circuit is slightly easier to build.

Both of these circuits could also be made with through hole components if you want to try it out.
 

g_acosta_02

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I went with the easy option for the sump, its It's a 20g long pre-made kit from ebay and you have the option for filter sock or strainer. I didn't want to go with the socks either, planning on going with filter floss, I did make a few tweaks like I do to most things but think it should work out pretty well - Sump kit

If you have any questions let me know. :)
Thanks, I want to with the strainer as well I will check it out
 
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bishoptf

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The 2 outlets can be a bit thick, but you could actually just run a single cable to the outlet, then daisy chain your power from the one you have plugged in to to the other side. This assumes that you don't flip the switch to the off position on the side going to the outlet and that you don't cut power to the side going to the outlet since they are daisy chained.

1587524418849.png


You could use a relay to control the channels on this light, but you could also use a converter circuit to control these lights including on/off without needing a relay. I have some details in my Mars Aqua thread.

If I didn't already have a bunch of these lights, I would probably get the Viparspectra lights instead. It seems like they can dim lower, and the control circuit is slightly easier to build.

Both of these circuits could also be made with through hole components if you want to try it out.

Yeah looks like the Viparspectra would be the one to go with, single input and looks like it dims lower. The only downside is no easy plug and play board to purchase from you. I looked at the schematic but would take me awhile to figure out how to take that and produce anything from it, doesn't look to complicated but I'm not the best and would need a better layout to follow, does look like a better light though.
 

Michael Lane

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Yeah looks like the Viparspectra would be the one to go with, single input and looks like it dims lower. The only downside is no easy plug and play board to purchase from you. I looked at the schematic but would take me awhile to figure out how to take that and produce anything from it, doesn't look to complicated but I'm not the best and would need a better layout to follow, does look like a better light though.
I've got a set of boards on the way for Viparspectra. Things are a bit slowed down, but I hope they arrive some time this week. If so, I should have some boards assembled, tested, and available early next week. Let me know if you are interesting in trying to build one; I could spend a bit of time and try to lay out what it might look like on a breadboard.
 
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bishoptf

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I've got a set of boards on the way for Viparspectra. Things are a bit slowed down, but I hope they arrive some time this week. If so, I should have some boards assembled, tested, and available early next week. Let me know if you are interesting in trying to build one; I could spend a bit of time and try to lay out what it might look like on a breadboard.

Yeah I am interested the problem is I most likely would not have all of the parts needed and I only have one decent electronics place nearby but not sure if they are open, lots of stuff still shut down. I would probably be interested in a pre-made board when you get some in. On the plus side, my tank is still dry and even as I get closer to getting it stocked I do not need lights in the beginning for some time, so I have time.

One question, can either the mars or vipar do a night mode or if I want to do that will I need something additional. I know its not needed but thought it would be one of those nice to have.
 

Michael Lane

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Yeah I am interested the problem is I most likely would not have all of the parts needed and I only have one decent electronics place nearby but not sure if they are open, lots of stuff still shut down. I would probably be interested in a pre-made board when you get some in. On the plus side, my tank is still dry and even as I get closer to getting it stocked I do not need lights in the beginning for some time, so I have time.

One question, can either the mars or vipar do a night mode or if I want to do that will I need something additional. I know its not needed but thought it would be one of those nice to have.
Mars Aqua cannot do a night mode. The minimum is just too bright. I'm not sure if Viparspectra will be dim enough for night mode. I haven't set up mine yet since I'm waiting for the polished boards. @AbjectMaelstroM might be able to advise.
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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Mars Aqua cannot do a night mode. The minimum is just too bright. I'm not sure if Viparspectra will be dim enough for night mode. I haven't set up mine yet since I'm waiting for the polished boards. @AbjectMaelstroM might be able to advise.

I'm thinking you're asking about something like a moonlight. I'll take a look tonight, but even at 0 I think it's a bit bright, especially if you use the white channel at all.

With PWM you can dim it lower than with the physical knob that it comes with, but it's still bright. I'll try just the blue channel tonight.
 
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bishoptf

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I'm thinking you're asking about something like a moonlight. I'll take a look tonight, but even at 0 I think it's a bit bright, especially if you use the white channel at all.

With PWM you can dim it lower than with the physical knob that it comes with, but it's still bright. I'll try just the blue channel tonight.

Thats what I was thinking blues only all the way down, at least as far as it will go and no whites. I too still believe it will be to bright but thought I would ask.

Thanks :)
 
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bishoptf

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So I dropped it to 0 and it's as I remembered. Still too bright.

Ok thanks for verifying, would probably need only a few blue leds lit up for moonlight, still not sure which way I want to go with lights, fighting power cables tonight, what a hassle.
 
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