Best PAR Requirements for Different Corals?

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MelancholyBlenny

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Do you have the par meter on hand? If it was me I would set the lights to AB+ schedule and measure the par by increasing the schedule intensity to where you eventually want the tank, then I would decrease it so it matches the par in the tank right now. write down the schedule intensity percent that matches the par of the tank right now then set it back to where you want the tank then I would setup the acclimation mode how I posted above.
 
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Do you have the par meter on hand? If it was me I would set the lights to AB+ schedule and measure the par by increasing the schedule intensity to where you eventually want the tank, then I would decrease it so it matches the par in the tank right now. write down the schedule intensity percent that matches the par of the tank right now then set it back to where you want the tank then I would setup the acclimation mode how I posted above.
Okay. I’ve got a Par meter. I’ll start setting up tomorrow and see what I get. Haha! What could possibly go wrong. Probably scare all the fish out of the tank. Ah, nope, got a lid now.
 
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HudsonReefer2.0

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I think AB+ runs everything close to max, but you can adjust the overall intensity down to the level you want. Guys, I like a 13 year old on his first trip to the house of I’ll repute. I think I know what I want to do, but I’m not real sure of how to do it yet.

To be honest, WWC set this program for me to start the tank and get it through the ugly stage. That’s past now, so I need to move to what I need, but not how me into an algae battle.
Good start I guess and I’m sure they l have ur best interest in mind since u are a consumer to them. But they are not the b all end all w reef systems. Also not the only vendor in Florida. I can provide u with some others that are first class.
 

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Okay. I’ve got a Par meter. I’ll start setting up tomorrow and see what I get. Haha! What could possibly go wrong. Probably scare all the fish out of the tank. Ah, nope, got a lid now.
Lol. Not gonna blast the system but change the spectrum to where it matches the lvl u have and slowly increase it over time. Top lids.
 
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Good start I guess and I’m sure they l have ur best interest in mind since u are a consumer to them. But they are not the b all end all w reef systems. Also not the only vendor in Florida. I can provide u with some others that are first class.

WWC has some great guys, and were a lot of help. I think they just had me running before i was ready to walk. They were setting my tank lighting up like they have all of there’s set up. That was fine by me, but I never got the how and why lesson I needed. I’ll get there.
 
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WWC has some great guys, and were a lot of help. I think they just had me running before i was ready to walk. They were setting my tank lighting up like they have all of there’s set up. That was fine by me, but I never got the how and why lesson I needed. I’ll get there.
They just set it up a little funky, I think you mentioned in your post they set it up like that in the beginning to minimize algae. You are past the beginning stages and honestly there is a lot of debate whether lower light helps or just prolongs the algae once your lights are bumped up to where they should be.
 

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I think AB+ runs everything close to max, but you can adjust the overall intensity down to the level you want. Guys, I like a 13 year old on his first trip to the house of I’ll repute. I think I know what I want to do, but I’m not real sure of how to do it yet.

To be honest, WWC set this program for me to start the tank and get it through the ugly stage. That’s past now, so I need to move to what I need, but not how me into an algae battle.
WWC also has lighting profiles you can download as well
 

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I use Tidal Gardens coral care recommendations, including their PAR suggestions.Not all Acropora require very high light intensity, there are deep water corals there too, which do better in subdued light.
For spectrum I use modified WWC template. If I buy coral at LFS, I ask them about PAR settings.
 
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This is the mid day schedule right now. My intent is slowly increase the reds and greens to 10% and the overall intensity to where the program line is. I’m not smart enough yet to know how the different combinations will affect the PAR.

View attachment 2941807


I wouldn't stress over it but rather just go for the mid range values of par per a recommended coral. So if a coral is recommended between 50-150, go for about 100.
 
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WWC also has lighting profiles you can download as well
Yes, I’ve tried a couple of them. Couldn’t use them because their 1500 gallon tank has the lights really high and it’s a deep tank, so the profile was way too much. Also tried one of their grow out settings. tvwa fairly close to what. Have now, but much higher level.
 

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Yes, I’ve tried a couple of them. Couldn’t use them because their 1500 gallon tank has the lights really high and it’s a deep tank, so the profile was way too much. Also tried one of their grow out settings. tvwa fairly close to what. Have now, but much higher level.
You don't have to copy exactly their profiles, just use spectrum they use and decrease light intensity if it's too much for your coral needs.
 
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So, a lot of head scratching and trying different thing and I came up with this. I used the AB+ template and modified the duration and colors. I wanted a longer light period with long ramp up and down. I also tuned down the lime, red and white. I’m still concerned about new tank algae. As time goes along, I can ramp up those colors. I’m starting with point intensity at 60% and schedule intensity at 60% of point intensity which gives me 290 PAR on the top ledge. That is a little higher than it was on my other program Which was 284.

Anything else I should think about?

D2572BF0-073E-40AD-86A3-190C58A2F58B.png
130543AA-5A49-428F-A308-A9CCE124826B.png
 

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Waterbox220.6. 72x24x22.5. Lights are 4 Radion XR30 Blue Gen 5s 8” above the tank. Highest rock (center) is 9” below the top rim, so 17” below the lights. Figured that would be enough room for coral growth. I’ve only got the lights at about 30% power right now. lots of capability to move up.
Set them to 100% and never look back.
 
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I'm no expert and at times I do things a little different. When I have multiple lights often I will not run them together. For example I have a section of one tank that has monti caps so the lights above them are cranked and the other lights above lps and softies are lower par. Its not as simple as running them all together at the same setting but allows me to have more light where it's needed and the same with lower light and depending on the tank layout it can be easier at times to change individual lights vs moving corals. I even have a single light in the middle that comes on low by itself early for feeding fish and stays on late for watching stuff before bed.
 

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Here’s what I would do:

1. go back in with a PAR meter and crank up your intensity until you have the PAR you’re looking for in regards to those acros

2. take note of what intensity brings you that PAR

3. Set your intensity back to where it is now

4. increase your intensity by 1-2% every couple of days, working up towards that intensity you marked down in step 2

This way, you are only moving up a few percent at a time. You’ll be able to visually see the response in your corals. If you notice they are disliking the intensity you can stop with the incremental changes and even work backward a couple % until you find the sweet spot where you’re giving your acros as much light as possible without stressing your lower light corals.
I’m currently at 20o where most of my acros are. I’m at 8-8-40-10-40-40 on my setting. Red-green-blue-white-royal blue-violet

I need to get to 8-8-70-20-70-70. You think a few % each day will be ok of a move?
 

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Waterbox220.6. 72x24x22.5. Lights are 4 Radion XR30 Blue Gen 5s 8” above the tank. Highest rock (center) is 9” below the top rim, so 17” below the lights. Figured that would be enough room for coral growth. I’ve only got the lights at about 30% power right now. lots of capability to move up.
I am so glad to see this! I have the exact same dimensions and lights. Maybe not 100% on the rock dimensions, but 8" above the water, 24" high tank. G5 pro blues - I am currently running my lights at 34% (AB+) - down from a previous value (I forget the exact number, but higher - probabyly in the 50% range) after that caused 2 acros to completely lose color and die rather quickly. I also had other soft corals that refused to open. I started lowering the values slowly and things relazed and did a lot better. All the zoas and LPS corals survived and are doing great. Have not attempted any mpre SPS as of this time.
I want the par meter to know for sure, but seeing your values, I think I am in a much better % range now. Until work-bonus cash comes - no par meter for me!
 
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I should also add - I never understood why the schedule intensity and then the point intesity. I set the schedule at 100% and point at whatever I want (now 34%). If the schedule intensity is less than 100, the the point value is not what it seems. So, to me, it seems a rather useless value. I noticed in your screens shots a 60% schedule, with 60% point is ~ 35% (actual?) - if the schedule was 100, the point could be set to 35% and easier (for me) to know what my values are.
 
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