Beginners Guide to Acclimation and Quarantine

[Brew12]

So it can be done but would be more expensive? I’ve got a 300 gallon tank I’m getting ready to stock. Wrasses, angels, triggers and tangs, all fairly peaceful. I have a 46 gallon quarantine tank but was wondering if I need to use it. The drawback as I see it is that unless I’m buying fish in groups it’s going to take me years to stock my 300. Buy a fish, wait 60 days. Buy another fish, wait 60 days. What’s the best way to build stock in a FOWLR DT safely but efficiently (more fun!)? Is there simply little way around the 60 day rule if I want to ensure the tank stays disease free? Thanks again R2R fam

I almost never QT one fish at a time and I also don't QT for more than 3 weeks unless I have an issue. If you want to try and be aggressive you can treat with copper in 2 weeks. This will eliminate velvet and ich. Unfortunately, Urinoma is becoming more common so treating with Metroplex is almost a must, also. At a bare minimum I would treat for 14 days. Use a copper hanna checker and copper power to get the QT set at 1ppm. Adjust it to the salinity the fish are coming in. Temp acclimate the fish and add them to the QT. Add General Cure to the water as directed starting day one. Just make sure you have good air exchange on your QT. Raise copper slowly to get to 1.75ppm over the next 3 days. After 10 days with copper at this level transfer the fish to the DT unless you see problems. Total process should take 14 days and should eliminate Urinoma, Ich, and Velvet along with non-prazi resistant flukes. A quick FW dip toward the end can be done to check to see if flukes made it through. You can treat for internal parasites in the DT if needed.

 

[Lebreton33]

I almost never QT one fish at a time and I also don't QT for more than 3 weeks unless I have an issue. If you want to try and be aggressive you can treat with copper in 2 weeks. This will eliminate velvet and ich. Unfortunately, Urinoma is becoming more common so treating with Metroplex is almost a must, also. At a bare minimum I would treat for 14 days. Use a copper hanna checker and copper power to get the QT set at 1ppm. Adjust it to the salinity the fish are coming in. Temp acclimate the fish and add them to the QT. Add General Cure to the water as directed starting day one. Just make sure you have good air exchange on your QT. Raise copper slowly to get to 1.75ppm over the next 3 days. After 10 days with copper at this level transfer the fish to the DT unless you see problems. Total process should take 14 days and should eliminate Urinoma, Ich, and Velvet along with non-prazi resistant flukes. A quick FW dip toward the end can be done to check to see if flukes made it through. You can treat for internal parasites in the DT if needed.

Thanks so much for this, I appreciate it! Questions: why does everyone say a minimum of 30 days, but closer to 60 days is better? 14 seems like too little based on everyone else’s advice but you seem like you know what you are doing. Also, assuming they are all smaller than 4” and non aggressive, what’s the max fish you would recommend I quarantine in a 47 gallon bow front with an aqua clear 70? Thanks again!

 

[Bthomas]

I almost never QT one fish at a time and I also don't QT for more than 3 weeks unless I have an issue. If you want to try and be aggressive you can treat with copper in 2 weeks. This will eliminate velvet and ich. Unfortunately, Urinoma is becoming more common so treating with Metroplex is almost a must, also. At a bare minimum I would treat for 14 days. Use a copper hanna checker and copper power to get the QT set at 1ppm. Adjust it to the salinity the fish are coming in. Temp acclimate the fish and add them to the QT. Add General Cure to the water as directed starting day one. Just make sure you have good air exchange on your QT. Raise copper slowly to get to 1.75ppm over the next 3 days. After 10 days with copper at this level transfer the fish to the DT unless you see problems. Total process should take 14 days and should eliminate Urinoma, Ich, and Velvet along with non-prazi resistant flukes. A quick FW dip toward the end can be done to check to see if flukes made it through. You can treat for internal parasites in the DT if needed.

How do u treat with copper in 2 weeks? I thought it was 30 days to eliminate ich

 

[Brew12]

Thanks so much for this, I appreciate it! Questions: why does everyone say a minimum of 30 days, but closer to 60 days is better? 14 seems like too little based on everyone else’s advice but you seem like you know what you are doing. Also, assuming they are all smaller than 4” and non aggressive, what’s the max fish you would recommend I quarantine in a 47 gallon bow front with an aqua clear 70? Thanks again!

30 to 60 days of treatment will give you a much better chance of having every issue resolved prior to going into your DT. You can clear all the types of flukes, internal parasites and have a better chance of avoiding bacterial issues. What I laid out was the bare minimum to handle a few common issues. It is also very aggressive for a treatment by using GC with copper. This isn't as good as a more comprehensive QT protocol but it is much better than just dumping into a DT.

How do u treat with copper in 2 weeks? I thought it was 30 days to eliminate ich

When treating with copper there are two options. You can treat for 30 day and then remove the copper from the system or you can treat for 10+ days and transfer the fish to a clean system.

 

[Brew12]

Thanks so much for this, I appreciate it! Questions: why does everyone say a minimum of 30 days, but closer to 60 days is better? 14 seems like too little based on everyone else’s advice but you seem like you know what you are doing. Also, assuming they are all smaller than 4” and non aggressive, what’s the max fish you would recommend I quarantine in a 47 gallon bow front with an aqua clear 70? Thanks again!

Just to be clear, this would be a good regimen to use while treating with copper.
Day 1 - Dose General Cure
Day 3 - Dose metroplex
Day 5 - Dose metroplex
Day 7 - Dose General Cure
Day 9 - Dose metroplex

Doing this would pretty much treat all the major fish health issues. It won't treat most bacterial infections or internal parasites and it won't give you much time to make sure the fish handled the treatment well.

 

[Lebreton33]

Just to be clear, this would be a good regimen to use while treating with copper.
Day 1 - Dose General Cure
Day 3 - Dose metroplex
Day 5 - Dose metroplex
Day 7 - Dose General Cure
Day 9 - Dose metroplex

Doing this would pretty much treat all the major fish health issues. It won't treat most bacterial infections or internal parasites and it won't give you much time to make sure the fish handled the treatment well.

Thanks. Honestly, if I can qt 3 or 4 similar fish at the same time then I would do 30 days minimums. If you don’t mind, what’s your protocol for a 30 day qt?

 

[Brew12]

Thanks. Honestly, if I can qt 3 or 4 similar fish at the same time then I would do 30 days minimums. If you don’t mind, what’s your protocol for a 30 day qt?

I have 2 QT systems that I use. A 10g and a 20g. I follow the 14 day treatment that I described, followed by a transfer to the clean QT. I will normally do a FW dip during that transfer to check for flukes. I'll observe for 14 more days and treat any internal parasites or bacterial infections that may come up. If doing well at the end of the 14 days they go to my DT.

And realized I never answered your question about how many. In that bowfront you could QT 8 to 10 fish at a time if you desired. Just keep in mind that this comes with increased risk. If one fish brings in a deadly bacterial infection it can take out all the fish. This isn't common, but it can happen. I like to QT in groups of 3 or 4 unless I have a reason where I need to do more. This seems to be a nice balance between ease and risk.

 

[Lebreton33]

I have 2 QT systems that I use. A 10g and a 20g. I follow the 14 day treatment that I described, followed by a transfer to the clean QT. I will normally do a FW dip during that transfer to check for flukes. I'll observe for 14 more days and treat any internal parasites or bacterial infections that may come up. If doing well at the end of the 14 days they go to my DT.

And realized I never answered your question about how many. In that bowfront you could QT 8 to 10 fish at a time if you desired. Just keep in mind that this comes with increased risk. If one fish brings in a deadly bacterial infection it can take out all the fish. This isn't common, but it can happen. I like to QT in groups of 3 or 4 unless I have a reason where I need to do more. This seems to be a nice balance between ease and risk.

Awesome, thanks again for the tips. Really appreciate it!

 

[Lebreton33]

Sorry...one more question. Let’s say I add a fish to my qt...and I plan to add three more over two or three weeks. Would I start with treatment once they are all in together? Or do I start when I add the first...then do it all over again when I add the second...and so on.

 

[Bthomas]

Is it OK to have one quarantine tank over top another on the same stand? I know there's the 10 foot rule but what does that apply to disease wise and how likely is it for things to be transmitted that way?

 

[Brew12]

Sorry...one more question. Let’s say I add a fish to my qt...and I plan to add three more over two or three weeks. Would I start with treatment once they are all in together? Or do I start when I add the first...then do it all over again when I add the second...and so on.

In a perfect world, you would wait to get all of them before starting treatment. Unfortunately, some of the stuff fish can come in with don't allow for waiting to begin.
My suggestion would be to wait until you had a group then begin treatment but if you see any signs of disease to begin treating immediately.

 

[Brew12]

Is it OK to have one quarantine tank over top another on the same stand? I know there's the 10 foot rule but what does that apply to disease wise and how likely is it for things to be transmitted that way?

I wouldn't do it. It's unlikely when the tanks are a few feet apart. Stacked on top of each other seems high risk to me. Not only do you have the possibility of aerosol transmission but you may just drip from one tank to the next. Cross contamination seems very easy in that case.

 

[Lebreton33]

In a perfect world, you would wait to get all of them before starting treatment. Unfortunately, some of the stuff fish can come in with don't allow for waiting to begin.
My suggestion would be to wait until you had a group then begin treatment but if you see any signs of disease to begin treating immediately.

Ok thanks!

 

[jtl]

Why not just do the ttm and treat with Prazipro and perhaps Formalin. Also gives some time for observation. Nice thing is no copper. I am getting a couple of fish (kole tang and a clown), actually I may get a mandarin as well but I would not treat that fish.

 

[Brew12]

Why not just do the ttm and treat with Prazipro and perhaps Formalin. Also gives some time for observation. Nice thing is no copper. I am getting a couple of fish (kole tang and a clown), actually I may get a mandarin as well but I would not treat that fish.

Good question. I'll start with that at the time I wrote the article, marine velvet was the biggest threat to fish health. To do TTM in a manner that would clear velvet would require a transfer every 48 hours and require 3 full QT systems. This may be an acceptable solution for many reefers but I was targeting beginning reefers. My goal was for them to do at least some form of QT that would treat the most common parasites. I feel recommending purchasing 3 QT's would have made them more likely to not do any QT at all.
If I were going to re-write this or update it I wouldn't change a whole lot. I would probably recommend adding a regimen of General Cure and Metroplex during the 14 days. Uronema seems to have become an even bigger threat than velvet at this point.
I also do not use concentrated formalin. I know Ruby Reef Rally has a tiny amount, but that is all I keep in the house. I do not feel the risk of its use is worth the potential benefit.

 

[OutsideBrian]

This may say like a dumb question so please excuse my ignorance. When you are setting up a Qt tank are you cycling it?
I am currently cycling my Dt but am trying to have the for site of needing / using a Qt. I am thinking about picking up a Fluval eco 5 gallon to observe / Qt etc

 

[wesman42]

This may say like a dumb question so please excuse my ignorance. When you are setting up a Qt tank are you cycling it?
I am currently cycling my Dt but am trying to have the for site of needing / using a Qt. I am thinking about picking up a Fluval eco 5 gallon to observe / Qt etc

A lot of people use media that's placed into your DT, then used as the bio filter in QT.

I used ceramic rings and filled up a 70 gal HOB filter for a 20l qt.


I've also used bottled fritz-zyme when I'm in a pinch.

 

[Brew12]

This may say like a dumb question so please excuse my ignorance. When you are setting up a Qt tank are you cycling it?
I am currently cycling my Dt but am trying to have the for site of needing / using a Qt. I am thinking about picking up a Fluval eco 5 gallon to observe / Qt etc

I seed my QT's with Biospira. I can get it locally and I've had great luck with it. I try to seed it with the Biospira at least a few days before I add fish.

 

[jtl]

Good question. I'll start with that at the time I wrote the article, marine velvet was the biggest threat to fish health. To do TTM in a manner that would clear velvet would require a transfer every 48 hours and require 3 full QT systems. This may be an acceptable solution for many reefers but I was targeting beginning reefers. My goal was for them to do at least some form of QT that would treat the most common parasites. I feel recommending purchasing 3 QT's would have made them more likely to not do any QT at all.
If I were going to re-write this or update it I wouldn't change a whole lot. I would probably recommend adding a regimen of General Cure and Metroplex during the 14 days. Uronema seems to have become an even bigger threat than velvet at this point.
I also do not use concentrated formalin. I know Ruby Reef Rally has a tiny amount, but that is all I keep in the house. I do not feel the risk of its use is worth the potential benefit.

Here goes. I have never quarantined, but I have done TTM in the past. This time I would like to change it up. I am getting 1 smallish Kole tang, I small b/w clown, and maybe a Anthias. I have a 20g long that I made as an AIO a while back and never used it. That is the only extra tank that I have so this process has to be done in there and then to the DT. I have read the methodology and it appears I need GC, Metroplex, Copper Power, and ATI copper test kit (I am not buying a Hanna checker for a one and done). I have some filter media and a piece of LR in my sump, do I still need the Biospira? I noticed on Amazon they have a combination of Metroplex and Focus for about the same price, any reason to buy Focus. Is 4 oz of Copper Power sufficient?

My lfs, who has been in business for a very long time (probably 20 years) tells me he holds his new arrivals for 1 week, does a Paraguard dip and then uses Prodibo in the water. I have no clue what either of these chemicals are this yet again more chems for the fish.

 

[Brew12]

do I still need the Biospira?

Nope, the piece of LR should be even better.

I noticed on Amazon they have a combination of Metroplex and Focus for about the same price, any reason to buy Focus.

Focus is used to get medications like metroplex or kanaplex to stick to food to help treat internal parasites.

Is 4 oz of Copper Power sufficient?

Unless you end up needing to do a lot of water changes for some crazy reason it should be enough.

I have no clue what either of these chemicals are this yet again more chems for the fish.

Paraguard is a SeaChem version of a parasite dip. Not nearly as bad as the formaldehyde dips it was designed to replace although not as effective, either.
Prodibo is a nitrifying bacteria so no harm to the fish with that one.

I'm going to offer an opinion that many people would disagree with. If you haven't done more than TTM for every fish in your system what we are discussing may be pointless. If any of the diseases we try to prevent from making it into a tank are already in there from previous fish then future QT is of little value. It's great if you haven't added a fish in a few years or if your system hasn't had fish for 3 months or for a new system. Starting in the middle of an established system? Not nearly as effective.
If you feel that your tank is relatively disease free than its worthwhile. If you think parasites are being held in check by the fishes immune system then I wouldn't bother. Especially if you have had unexplained deaths within the first few weeks of adding a fish.