Beginners Guide to Acclimation and Quarantine

Arcticfirefighter

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I don't consider any source to be reliable. All it takes is one fish at a LFS to come in with Ich, and it will likely be in their systems forever. It isn't reasonable to think they will keep their system fishless for 2 1/2 months to starve the parasite out. The fish in the store may even look great but you never know if they carry the parasite but their natural immunity is keeping symptoms from showing. If you bring that fish home and put it in a tank with fish that may not be immune you be in for a rough ride 2 weeks later.
Most LFS's and distributors use a few tricks to deal with parasites. Some of them will run low levels of copper in their systems. Not enough to wipe out the parasites but enough to limit their numbers so there are no visible symptoms. I always look to see if stores keep their inverts and fish in the same system. The other thing you will see is that they keep low salinity. 1.015 to 1.018 is very typical. This will slow down the rate at which parasites reproduce although it is also done to save money on salt.
To me, the only reliable source of clean fish for my DT is my QT.
Brew, I know this is an old post; however, I am learning so much I cant pass it up. You mentioned checking if your LFS keeping inverts and fish in the same system. Question is, is this a good thing or a warning sign?
 
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Brew12

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Brew, I know this is an old post; however, I am learning so much I cant pass it up. You mentioned checking if your LFS keeping inverts and fish in the same system. Question is, is this a good thing or a warning sign?
Umm... not really sure.

If they have inverts with fish it lets you know they don't run copper in their system but that the inverts could bring Ich/Velvet into your tank.

If they separate their inverts from their fish they likely run copper in their systems so the inverts should be safe but the fish may not be in great shape.
 

Arcticfirefighter

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Umm... not really sure.

If they have inverts with fish it lets you know they don't run copper in their system but that the inverts could bring Ich/Velvet into your tank.

If they separate their inverts from their fish they likely run copper in their systems so the inverts should be safe but the fish may not be in great shape.
Gotcha, good to know thanks!! Definitely something I will pay attention to next time I am there.
 

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I've set up a QT following the indications; I'm using an HOB with the sponge and the biomedia as filters. I've just started the copper treatment and my water is slowly turning yellow (the water is a little more than a week old). If my ammonia and nitrites are under control, do I maintain the treatment or do I have to use the coal filter (and/or a water change) and start the copper all over again ?
 
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I've set up a QT following the indications; I'm using an HOB with the sponge and the biomedia as filters. I've just started the copper treatment and my water is slowly turning yellow (the water is a little more than a week old). If my ammonia and nitrites are under control, do I maintain the treatment or do I have to use the coal filter (and/or a water change) and start the copper all over again ?
I would try wringing the sponge out and rinsing it under cool tap water first. See if cleaning that stops the yellowing. And no, doing that will not hurt the bacteria. Bacteria are tough little buggers!
 

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I'll usually do just that with my filter sponges, but in old tankwater, during a water change. Siphon a bucket, pull the sponge and drop it into the bucket, smoosh it until as much as possible of the goop inside has transferred to the bucket water and replace the sponge.

doesn't seem to bother the bacteria a spot.

~Bruce
 

Patricedion

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I'll usually do just that with my filter sponges, but in old tankwater, during a water change. Siphon a bucket, pull the sponge and drop it into the bucket, smoosh it until as much as possible of the goop inside has transferred to the bucket water and replace the sponge.

doesn't seem to bother the bacteria a spot.

~Bruce
Thanks! I'll let you know.
 

Geebs19

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I have a HOB aqua clear filter with just the sponge and then a small power head to help move the water. So I need to add a air stone or anything? What’s the benefit of the air stone?
 

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I would try wringing the sponge out and rinsing it under cool tap water first. See if cleaning that stops the yellowing. And no, doing that will not hurt the bacteria. Bacteria are tough little buggers!
If I do that every day (or every other day), will the water turn back clear or will it just stop the yellowing ?
 
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Brew12

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If I do that every day (or every other day), will the water turn back clear or will it just stop the yellowing ?
It should just stop the yellowing. You would need to run carbon to undo the yellowing. I would wring them out every 3 or 4 days.
 
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I have a HOB aqua clear filter with just the sponge and then a small power head to help move the water. So I need to add a air stone or anything? What’s the benefit of the air stone?
I only run an extra air stone if I am using medication that can cause a bacteria bloom and low O2. Otherwise I don't find them necessary.
 

Geebs19

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Thanks. I just posted this as a thread but this may be better to ask here. I’m getting ready to run a round of prazipro and my tank is cloudy from either a bacterial. Look from being by a window or most likely is from the frozen food I am feeding. Should I do a water change to reduce the cloudiness before the prazipro
 
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Thanks. I just posted this as a thread but this may be better to ask here. I’m getting ready to run a round of prazipro and my tank is cloudy from either a bacterial. Look from being by a window or most likely is from the frozen food I am feeding. Should I do a water change to reduce the cloudiness before the prazipro
I feel it is best to try and get water quality as good as possible before adding meds. Much easier to fix than waiting until meds are in the water. The only reason I would add a medication to problematic water is if the fish was in a condition that needed the meds ASAP.
 

Matt Carden

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Ok so I'm working on getting everything together for my 150 gallon build. I haven't started cycling yet. I assume that these QT tanks will also need to be cycled before adding fish. One could probably add the biospheres into your DT or sump/fuge so that they would be cycled with the DT. Then you could add biospheres to HOB with RODI saltwater and the QT's would be ready for fish?
 
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Brew12

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Ok so I'm working on getting everything together for my 150 gallon build. I haven't started cycling yet. I assume that these QT tanks will also need to be cycled before adding fish. One could probably add the biospheres into your DT or sump/fuge so that they would be cycled with the DT. Then you could add biospheres to HOB with RODI saltwater and the QT's would be ready for fish?
You can seed something like biospheres in your sump and that should work. Just make sure you put them in a higher flow area.

I typically use Biospira to jump start my QT systems.
 

Matt Carden

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You can seed something like biospheres in your sump and that should work. Just make sure you put them in a higher flow area.

I typically use Biospira to jump start my QT systems.

So someone like me who is getting ready to start a new tank can start cycling new DT/Sump/fuge and have fish in QT at the same time using Bio-Spira. Pretty much as soon as cycle is complete on DT the QT would be done and ready for acclimation.

Thanks for the great idea!
 

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When raising the salinity in your QT to match your DT, how slow or fast do you go with that?

After having my 125 gallon tank set up and running with only inverts for the last 5 months I have fish coming in tomorrow and supposedly they keep their salinity at 1.021 whereas I keep my salinity in the DT at 1.025
 
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