Baffled with acro deaths
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BlueDevil
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GFO I can understand, but how much does carbon really strip from the water other than dissolved organics, and any chemical warfare byproducts? I don't overdo the dosing either; in fact I use less that the recommended dose for my tank.
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BlueDevil
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At this point, I can give that a shot as well to see if it helps slow down. The big reason why I was ramping up as quickly was so that the corals would have at least the minimum PAR to survive.
najer
Valuable Member
They should survive ok at lower par, I let mine adjust for a week or 2 lower in the tank and slowly move them up, in my experience if they start to go darker then they will take more light, better than bleaching them.
I am reasonably new to sps but when I turn the light up to suite the acros my montis struggle.
I am reasonably new to sps but when I turn the light up to suite the acros my montis struggle.
fragit
2500 Club Member
Check out BRS TV 52 weeks of reefing. When they set up the lights in the tank. They claim 300-400 is the most par any SPS needs that the optimal par rating according to them. Ramp up intensity much slower than your doing.
If you use a lux meter you can actually gauge the intensity accurately and pretty closely estimate par.
$15 lux meter on Amazon. Or 75 for the really nice Milwaukee.
2000 lux is roughly 50 par depending on the light and settings or tubes used.
The 400 par photo saturation poin is from an article by Dana riddle in advanced aquarist.
$15 lux meter on Amazon. Or 75 for the really nice Milwaukee.
2000 lux is roughly 50 par depending on the light and settings or tubes used.
The 400 par photo saturation poin is from an article by Dana riddle in advanced aquarist.
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BlueDevil
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I will check out the BRS TV video, though as with anything else in this hobby, PAR ratings and what is needed by SPS is quite the hotly debated topic.
Salty - I have been stalking the conversation that you and @CastAway have been having on the Lux meters in one of his threads. I admit I do not understand a whole lot about what lux meters tell you, and what levels I should be looking for in my tank, or even how it is measured. Is it similar to the PAR meter where you stick the sensor inside the tank in various spots to get readings? I would appreciate some reading material on this subject.
Salty - I have been stalking the conversation that you and @CastAway have been having on the Lux meters in one of his threads. I admit I do not understand a whole lot about what lux meters tell you, and what levels I should be looking for in my tank, or even how it is measured. Is it similar to the PAR meter where you stick the sensor inside the tank in various spots to get readings? I would appreciate some reading material on this subject.
Shoot me a pm please to remind me. Is actually 5am here and I have a while to go. I have a few articles in depth.
It's actually really easy. Pretty sure reefers stopped doing it once par meters came out. Just fashion.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/lighting-upgrade-with-a-lux-meter-saltyfilmfolks.248417/
Another thread now.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/p...oinhibition-of-zoanthids.262870/#post-3131660
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BlueDevil
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I certainly will! I should probably get to working myself. I came in to work early so I could get some work done before vacation next week, and all I've done these past 3 hours is poke around on R2R :/
dankreef
Well-Known Member
Your response answers your own question. Carbon takes out organics. I would bet 100$ that's your problem. dont Change a bunch at once. Just drop the gfo and carbon and let your levels slowly rise and watch the difference.
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BlueDevil
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@saltyfilmfolks - here are some quick pictures I took of various things in the tank. You will see that the corals start showing tissue loss at the tips, and then the dead tissue gets covered in red slime. I don't have any other major cyano outbreaks or any slime coating anywhere else. Just the stuff that is dying seems to attract the red stuff. Important to note that the slime starts only after the tissue starts dying.
Red Planet
PC Rainbow
Purple Monster. You can see half the plug (to the right) that was encrusted and colored up has turned to white. I had to chop off one small 'arm' because it had lost all tissue.
Acan has closed up considerably.
Acan 2 - pretty near death
Just for a comparison, here are the same acans taken roughly a month or so back. They have popped off several new heads, but overall have shrunk considerably. The micromussa pictures here is also shriveled up.
Blue Stag. Half of this one is still colored up and looking good. The other half (right side of the stalk) has browned out
Now to what is looking good!
Miami Orchid:
Pink Jade:
Baby nem
Zoas
Euphyllia
Finally a FTS...
Red Planet
PC Rainbow
Purple Monster. You can see half the plug (to the right) that was encrusted and colored up has turned to white. I had to chop off one small 'arm' because it had lost all tissue.
Acan has closed up considerably.
Acan 2 - pretty near death
Just for a comparison, here are the same acans taken roughly a month or so back. They have popped off several new heads, but overall have shrunk considerably. The micromussa pictures here is also shriveled up.
Blue Stag. Half of this one is still colored up and looking good. The other half (right side of the stalk) has browned out
Now to what is looking good!
Miami Orchid:
Pink Jade:
Baby nem
Zoas
Euphyllia
Finally a FTS...
Briefly with easy math.
The light of the sky and sun at noon average is 100,000 lux. Dark is 0 lux (metric)
All light has a certain amount of par. we assign a number to the amount. A constant.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/2/review
The sun is 50.....100,000 / 50 is 2000 par
Cool White Fluorescent is 74 100,000 / 74 = 1300 par
Coralife 10,000°K Metal Halide 1s 30 3300 par
Ime many LED so far seem to be in the 55 to 65 range.
If you meter the light at the top of the tank like mine at 40,000 lux it means I have 40l / 60 = 660 Par. (i do average this number by using the constant of 50 AND 60 AND 65) to estimate.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/lighting-upgrade-with-a-lux-meter-saltyfilmfolks.248417/
this also means that increasing lux intensity by 2500 lux is and increase is 41 par. OR 50 par is you use a constant of 50 for easy math 2500/50=50
so now you can control acclimation,
Sorry Fans, I lied its not a simple $15 meter on amazon to answer all your question about intensity.
Its $13.55
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQT68CO/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472251114&sr=sr-1&keywords=lux
cant get a Xenia in most parts for that.
yea you can get an under water on but really I dont know that its worth it. I tested my lightsDRY at the same distance to check falloff or the amount the light diminishes at distance. A lensed light falls off slower than an unlensed one.
The light of the sky and sun at noon average is 100,000 lux. Dark is 0 lux (metric)
All light has a certain amount of par. we assign a number to the amount. A constant.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/2/review
The sun is 50.....100,000 / 50 is 2000 par
Cool White Fluorescent is 74 100,000 / 74 = 1300 par
Coralife 10,000°K Metal Halide 1s 30 3300 par
Ime many LED so far seem to be in the 55 to 65 range.
If you meter the light at the top of the tank like mine at 40,000 lux it means I have 40l / 60 = 660 Par. (i do average this number by using the constant of 50 AND 60 AND 65) to estimate.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/lighting-upgrade-with-a-lux-meter-saltyfilmfolks.248417/
this also means that increasing lux intensity by 2500 lux is and increase is 41 par. OR 50 par is you use a constant of 50 for easy math 2500/50=50
so now you can control acclimation,
Sorry Fans, I lied its not a simple $15 meter on amazon to answer all your question about intensity.
Its $13.55
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQT68CO/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472251114&sr=sr-1&keywords=luxcant get a Xenia in most parts for that.
yea you can get an under water on but really I dont know that its worth it. I tested my lightsDRY at the same distance to check falloff or the amount the light diminishes at distance. A lensed light falls off slower than an unlensed one.
is this close to the true color? I think its faded. Low nutrients or new tank
but the prob seems all over the place so no easy answer, thats reefing.:mad:
bleaching young tank or too much light or low nutrients.
A couple the lps maybe too much light, bad flow or not blue enough light, but im not a LPS guy. just IME
were it me Id check light feed like crazy check flow and dose a bacterial like MB7 or low dose Dr Tims one and only.
my zoas and lps really respond to the mimi mysis juice spot feeding I got from you tube.
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BlueDevil
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All my frags are fairly new. The oldest surviving one is only a few months old. Tank too is only 4 months old. I just checked the PAR in the tank a few days back and the highest point gets ~325 at the moment. I feed my fish every other day (1 cube of LRS) and target feed the acans once a week. Reef chili goes in thrice a week.
Also, thank you very much for the LUX details. Very interesting read and something that I plan on checking out when I get the meter. Will report back with my results.
MB7 isn't a bad idea. I have plenty on hand from my cycling process so I'll dose that with every water change.
Also, thank you very much for the LUX details. Very interesting read and something that I plan on checking out when I get the meter. Will report back with my results.
MB7 isn't a bad idea. I have plenty on hand from my cycling process so I'll dose that with every water change.
Compared to my house. Your tanks are fasting.
jsker
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What salt are you using? everything you are doing is right, and the reason for asking what salt you are using is, possibly the trace elements are depleted with all the new additions. I ran into to same thing and made a couple of changes to my chem management 6 months ago, and so far things are very good.
fragit
2500 Club Member
I was just going to say that as I was reading the last few posts. I'm certain at this point your corals are just starving. Feed more frequently!Compared to my house. Your tanks are fasting.
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BlueDevil
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Compared to my house. Your tanks are fasting.
How often/what do you guys feed your tanks? Corals especially? Please include any other nutrients as well such as Aminos, Reef Energy/Colors, Acro Power etc...
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BlueDevil
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I'm currently buying my water from the LFS and they use Aquavitro Salinity. Their water is only RO instead of RODI.
I finally have the room to set up my own water mixing station which I am in the process of doing. This picture will fit in well here. Here's the stand and mixing containers that I just put together yesterday. I already have the RODI unit. Now it's just a matter of hooking that up and plumbing the two containers.
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