ATO "failsafe" options

[TX_REEF]

Hello friends. I am going on 2-week vacation soon, and have taken some steps to prepare my tanks which include auto feeders and auto top offs, with extra large reservoirs. Does anyone have any advice for devices I can use as a failsafe if my optical ATO sensors happen to fail in the "on" position? My reservoirs are 23 gallons, and my systems are both 90 gallons so if all that RO got dumped it would obviously be catastrophic. I was thinking maybe some sort of leak detector with an integrated outlet that would shut off the ATO pump automatically if triggered, mounted on the interior of the sump, high up near the rim. Something like this: https://amzn.to/41Sf2wh

Any thoughts or more streamlined ideas?

 

[Uncle99]

I use a secondary mechanical safety and a mult-timer to only allow power, once every hour for 1 minute to the ATO.

That frequency matches the ATOs optical sensor period.

It was $20 bucks off Amazon and had been working 5 years now.

So if optical fails, mechanical catches, if both fail then the multi timer mirrors the evaporation

 

[TX_REEF]

I use a secondary mechanical safety and a mult-timer to only allow power, once every hour for 1 minute to the ATO.

That frequency matches the ATOs optical sensor period.

I like the timer idea - what exactly do you mean by "secondary mechanical safety"?

 

[GARRIGA]

Controller could turn the ATO off should salinity drop below a set number.

 

[Uncle99]

I like the timer idea - what exactly do you mean by "secondary mechanical safety"?

Most ATOs come with two sensors, either two optical or one optical and one mechanical (a float).

In my system, the ATO comes on every 15 minutes for 45 seconds.

The timer comes on every hour for 1 minute.

It would mean that in the event of failure, the ATO would only power on and fill for 1 minute every hour which should prevent from any major catastrophe.

The leak detector did not work for me. For some reason, it was coming on frequently even when the area seemed dry.

 

[TX_REEF]

Most ATOs come with two sensors, either two optical or one optical and one mechanical (a float).

In my system, the ATO comes on every 15 minutes for 45 seconds.

The timer comes on every hour for 1 minute.

It would mean that in the event of failure, the ATO would only power on and fill for 1 minute every hour which should prevent from any major catastrophe.

The leak detector did not work for me. For some reason, it was coming on frequently even when the area seemed dry.

Ok, that makes a lot of sense. I’m probably worrying for no reason, the optical sensor I have does have both a low and high water sensor. I am using a smart power strip with individual outlet control, so I think I’ll copy your idea and set the outlet to only turn on for one minute every our to be safe. Thanks for the idea!

 

[gbroadbridge]

Hello friends. I am going on 2-week vacation soon, and have taken some steps to prepare my tanks which include auto feeders and auto top offs, with extra large reservoirs. Does anyone have any advice for devices I can use as a failsafe if my optical ATO sensors happen to fail in the "on" position? My reservoirs are 23 gallons, and my systems are both 90 gallons so if all that RO got dumped it would obviously be catastrophic. I was thinking maybe some sort of leak detector with an integrated outlet that would shut off the ATO pump automatically if triggered, mounted on the interior of the sump, high up near the rim. Something like this: https://amzn.to/41Sf2wh

Any thoughts or more streamlined ideas?

Mechanical float valve and if you wish only turn on for a couple of minutes a couple of times a day with a timer.

 

[Uncle99]

Ok, that makes a lot of sense. I’m probably worrying for no reason, the optical sensor I have does have both a low and high water sensor. I am using a smart power strip with individual outlet control, so I think I’ll copy your idea and set the outlet to only turn on for one minute every our to be safe. Thanks for the idea!

Good insurance for $20.
When I go on vacation, I only leave only enough RODI for the number of days gone. Max for me is 17 days.

All my electronic stuff I can turn off/on with a simple WiFi outlet $10 and a WiFi camera on tank and sump so I can see what’s going on remotely.

My heaters are to a WiFi Inkbird which will cut power to the heaters at 80 degrees. It also keeps a graph by 15 m8nute intervals and I can also manually turn off the power remotely. It will send a push notification if either high or low temps are found, or, there is a major difference between the two probes indicating one probe may have failed.

Lastly, I test once in a while if everything resets during a power outage and sump returns to normal running level.

I’ve had no errors in 5 years now.

 

[exnisstech]

I use a secondary mechanical safety and a mult-timer to only allow power, once every hour for 1 minute to the ATO.

That frequency matches the ATOs optical sensor period.

It was $20 bucks off Amazon and had been working 5 years now.

So if optical fails, mechanical catches, if both fail then the multi timer mirrors the evaporation

Thats a great idea. I use the same timer for my kalk doser but have a spare that I may have to connect to my ATO container.

 

[RedReefer]

I run a pressure switch with apex back up.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

If your willing to drop coin on a tunze 3155 ato, they are the gold standard. Outside of an custom setup (which I now use), I'd use them. You can set the flow rate and shut off after 10 minutes of operation. I did one of those for a few years with no issues.

 

[Acros]

If you are considering getting an expensive ATO like the tunze ato, consider an Ecotech Vectra instead. You can set it to continuous dose and can roughly tune your dosage within a week or so.

I don’t know if your evaporation will vary much when you are gone. I wouldn’t think so.

With the vortech you will have to retune it during the summer and winter as evaporation rates differ with the season. It shouldn’t be a problem for just 2 weeks.

 

[emoore]

If you are going with a controller I would recommend against the Neptune Apex ATO. While the sensors and float are just fine it's the FMM module that frequently disconnects from the Apex and turns off your ATO so your salinity just rises and rises. Very frustrating. I'd go for a Tunze or some other reliable ATO.

 

[Reeferbadness]

Red Sea ATO had real time info on how much is added + a leak detector. I just upgraded from tunz and love being able to see in real time how much water is moving as well as how much is left in the reservoir

 

[a.t.t.r]

Many of the optical systems will shut off at 10x the amount of time it normally is on for(or the first fill it does since last power cycle). Example mine beeps and stops working if it goes for 40 seconds and requires manual intervention.

 

[gbroadbridge]

Many of the optical systems will shut off at 10x the amount of time it normally is on for(or the first fill it does since last power cycle). Example mine beeps and stops working if it goes for 40 seconds and requires manual intervention.

Unfortunately, when the sensor fails (often to to saltwater infiltration), the fried electronics inside turn the pump on and the timer no longer works. I had a couple fail in that spectacular manner flooding the floor.

 

[braaap]

The literal only correct answer is a pressure switch from Avast marine. Chance of failure are one in a million. Water drops and the outlet is on. Water raises and the outlet is off. Pretty simple.

If you have a controller pair it with the avast and a high level float and never worry again.

 

[a.t.t.r]

Unfortunately, when the sensor fails (often to to saltwater infiltration), the fried electronics inside turn the pump on and the timer no longer works. I had a couple fail in that spectacular manner flooding the floor.

What were you using where the electronics are anywhere near the water besides the sensor?

 

[aquadise]

For me I used 4 levels of failsafe:
1. An optical sensor of Apex, which will trigger a solenoid valve to open when the sump water level lower than the sensor.
2. A float valve set at higher position than the optical sensor, which will close when the Apex fail.
3. An ASOV of Autoaqua, included an optical sensor and a solenoid valve. The valve is always on. The sensor will be set at higher position than the float valve. If the float valve fail, the water level keep rising and trigger the ASOV Autoaqua to turnoff the solenoid valve. This Autoaqua is indepedent with the Apex just in case Apex fails.
4. The Leak sensor of Apex which might notify me if all of above fails... This is just to clean the mess and shut down the system

The code in Apex also will be set up based on failsafe as priority:
Fallback OFF
If WLvl1 OPEN Then ON
If WLvl1 CLOSED Then OFF
If FeedD 000 Then OFF
If Leak1 CLOSED Then OFF
Defer 005:00 Then ON
Defer 000:10 Then OFF
When On > 015:00 Then OFF