ATI ICP Results - Help?

[splunty]

This was my first test and my first tank. The tank is 9 months old stocked with 2 clowns, 1 fire shrimp, a Xenia frag, a cabbage leather frag (just added), various snails, zillions of micro brittle stars, and one ~2 inch brittle star that appeared like magic.

1) Salinity - My Hanna salinity checker has obviously drifted (I do care for it, rinse in RODI after every use, and calibrate every 4 weeks). PLAN: replaced top off with 1.026 and will test daily until recovered.

2) Chrome - Do I need to be concerned? I do 10% water changes weekly. The ATI results showed all zeros on my RO/DI. I see nothing in the display that could be rusting and the other metals seem to be relatively in line. I did switch from bare bottom to sand (Fiji Pink). Could this have introduced the chrome?

3) I dose daily with Reef Code A & B to maintain Calcium & ALK. Should I continue these doses? Any chance this is impacting the other readings?

4) Iodine - PLAN: I have Iodide and will dose lightly and re-test in a few weeks. I've read many threads about this and they seem inconclusive.

5) For the other elements that are low (F, Mo, Mn, V) should I take no action and re-test later, dose some or all of them directly, or start using a broadcast additive like Reef Trace?

I know the ATI test isn't highly thought of, so should I just hold off and order a Triton test? I used the ATI because it was on sale and includes the RODI test.

Thanks in advance! Sorry for the long post.

 

[Uncle99]

If salinity is off everything is off.
My checker sits on the shelf as it could never be trusted.
Back to trusty old refractometer.

Iodine you can dose up if you want but I’m not sure what use it provides to reef aquaria.

Personally, I don’t really pay any attention to anything else.

Big can of worms the trace element things and complex to manage. I just do a small regular water change to keep them available.

 

[splunty]

If salinity is off everything is off.
My checker sits on the shelf as it could never be trusted.
Back to trusty old refractometer.

Iodine you can dose up if you want but I’m not sure what use it provides to reef aquaria.

Personally, I don’t really pay any attention to anything else.

Big can of worms the trace element things and complex to manage. I just do a small regular water change to keep them available.

Thank you for the reply.

Ironically, I splurged for the Hanna salinity checker after I got burned by the refractometer which had gotten to the point where it wouldn't even hold calibration long enough to mix up a new batch of water.

As far as Iodine goes, there's enough non-anecdotal posts correlating Xenia health with iodine levels that I feel comfortable dosing at least to the point that measurable levels approach recommended levels.

Regarding the trace elements, I'm leaning toward following Randy's recommendations here:

Randy's Elements to Dose

In a previous article I discussed my thoughts on trace elements https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/randys-thoughts-on-trace-elements.951/ This article expands on that discussion by providing specific guidance for all elements one might dose. First, some explanation. I have listed many elements as...

www.reef2reef.com

Which still leaves me confused as to how the Chrome levels are so high. There's another thread where Randy referenced a study that measured high chromium levels in literally every commercial salt source they tested. At the same time, I can't find any evidence that this high level is detrimental to anything in the tank.

Sorry if you don't find any of this interesting -- I started to reply then started thinking out loud.

Time to order another refractometer....

 

[Uncle99]

Thank you for the reply.

Ironically, I splurged for the Hanna salinity checker after I got burned by the refractometer which had gotten to the point where it wouldn't even hold calibration long enough to mix up a new batch of water.

As far as Iodine goes, there's enough non-anecdotal posts correlating Xenia health with iodine levels that I feel comfortable dosing at least to the point that measurable levels approach recommended levels.

Regarding the trace elements, I'm leaning toward following Randy's recommendations here:

Randy's Elements to Dose

In a previous article I discussed my thoughts on trace elements https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/randys-thoughts-on-trace-elements.951/ This article expands on that discussion by providing specific guidance for all elements one might dose. First, some explanation. I have listed many elements as...

www.reef2reef.com

Which still leaves me confused as to how the Chrome levels are so high. There's another thread where Randy referenced a study that measured high chromium levels in literally every commercial salt source they tested. At the same time, I can't find any evidence that this high level is detrimental to anything in the tank.

Sorry if you don't find any of this interesting -- I started to reply then started thinking out loud.

Time to order another refractometer....

I find it quite interesting.
Great you going to replace that.

I’ve heard about the values of iodine as well but after a year at 0.06ppm, I couldn’t feel any benefit. It certainly will not hurt provided you stay 0.06ppm on or about. It doesn’t seem to stay in the water that long, maybe a day or two.

We’ve run into several cases with salinity checkers which was only found after corals started to be very unhappy.

The refractometer (calibrated) has not been wrong in decades for me. When it started to go south, I just replaced that for $30 bucks.

While I find these higher end tests interesting, I’m not sure I buy into them exclusively. I think sometimes they raise issues that are not really issues at all.

If I regular change water, I expect this super small trace things are added back this way, and in the correct amounts.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Visual rusting aside, are there any metal parts at all in the water? Like hose clamps?

I do not think there's much evidence on how high most trace elements can go before being an issue, and it is probably fine, but I'd remove any metal parts.

 

[splunty]

Visual rusting aside, are there any metal parts at all in the water? Like hose clamps?

I do not think there's much evidence on how high most trace elements can go before being an issue, and it is probably fine, but I'd remove any metal parts.

Thank you for the reply. There is no metal of which I am aware. I actually disassembled one of the heaters just to verify nothing could be exposed there. That pretty much leaves the return pump (MightyJet Mini) which seems very unlikely to have exposed metals.

My plan is to re-test in a few months to see if those levels are transient or (gulp) climbing.

 

[splunty]

Visual rusting aside, are there any metal parts at all in the water? Like hose clamps?

I do not think there's much evidence on how high most trace elements can go before being an issue, and it is probably fine, but I'd remove any metal parts.

Aluminum levels are also elevated (1.9 ug/l) which I didn't immediately pay attention to because it isn't highlighted in the ATI lab results. I'm confident there is no exposed metal in the tank. This has me suspicious that something plastic may be leaching the chromium and aluminum. So to revise the previous plan:

- Replace plastic-caged heaters with IM Helios or a pair of Eheim if those fit in the chamber.
- Remove plastic bio balls from the filter chamber. (No need for commentary here. I know they're pointless.)
- Replace cheap mini-power heads. I'm quite suspicious of these as they're magnetically mounted and the magnets are encased in a soft plastic material.

Then continue regular maintenance and re-test in a few months.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Aluminum levels are also elevated (1.9 ug/l) which I didn't immediately pay attention to because it isn't highlighted in the ATI lab results. I'm confident there is no exposed metal in the tank. This has me suspicious that something plastic may be leaching the chromium and aluminum. So to revise the previous plan:

- Replace plastic-caged heaters with IM Helios or a pair of Eheim if those fit in the chamber.
- Remove plastic bio balls from the filter chamber. (No need for commentary here. I know they're pointless.)
- Replace cheap mini-power heads. I'm quite suspicious of these as they're magnetically mounted and the magnets are encased in a soft plastic material.

Then continue regular maintenance and re-test in a few months.

That aluminum level is not worth worrying about.