Any Ford Techs Here?

[SteveMM62Reef]

I’m 95% sure it’s something wrong at the Dash. The motor goes fully to heat and cool, without unplugging the Actuator, but just some of the time. Also the Back doesn’t seem to be on a thermostat like the front, you set the control, which equals want position you want the damper at. Damper turns easily, and you can hear the airflow change.

 

[smacbride]

This place is starting to look like reddit...

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Looks like I’ve been summoned lol let me read thru this and look at some wiring diagrams before I say anything

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Well first off diyreef is correct in what he is saying on how it works.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

First thing would be to check if you have any type of codes you would need a specialty scan tool just a so-called check engine light scanner will not work for this as reef said a by directional is what you’re gonna need depending on if you have codes or not is going to point the direction that we need to go

 

[((FORDTECH))]

I’m gunna lean towards you needing a smart junction box as I Believe I read you already replaced that actuator

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Other than already replacing the actuator you can load test the wiring is something you can do at home without a scan tool but still will be tough figuring out the pins at the smart junction box. Ohm testing a wire only proves it has 1 strand of wire intact does not mean it can flow the current needed to make things work.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Here is the pinpoint test that I would be doing. Again this test is intended to be done when the issue is present.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Without doing step 1 which is check for codes if you choose no code it sends you to Q9 and Q10 which is using sjb to power actuator Clockwise and counterclockwise and if you achieve that looks like step Q 10 is replace smart junction box. But without doing Q1 and knowing if there’s any codes it’s hard to jump to Q9 without that information so I need more to go on for me to go any farther with this…. Hope this helps

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

I worked on it today, took the Actuator back out, marked it with a Paint pin, and reinstalled. Went back and fort, it worked every time. Wondering if my wife knows how to operate it. I got the Fender repaired on the other side. Also replaced the Parking Assist Speaker, so that works. Put all the Panels back on. Tomorrow going into the Clock for the mini-lamp and will check the AC Charge. I got all my Acrylic Cut, for the 120 Gallons spill tray, and for the Power Strips Splash Shields.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Former Ford senior master here. The Monterey was a fancy Freestar. The older villager was the Nissan Quest. Anyhow the module that controls all of the front is the EATC module. It is the control head that you push the buttons on. The module that controls the back is the smart junction box (what we used to call a fuse box but now it has a module built in)

Hi how’s it going I work for Ford in Chicago been a senior master since 2001 I went on the cruise to Cancun that they awarded back then was pretty cool otherwise you’re the only other senior master Ford technician that I’ve seen who also is into reefing pretty cool just wanted to say nice to meet you

 

[Diyreef8401]

Hi how’s it going I work for Ford in Chicago been a senior master since 2001 I went on the cruise to Cancun that they awarded back then was pretty cool otherwise you’re the only other senior master Ford technician that I’ve seen who also is into reefing pretty cool just wanted to say nice to meet you

I became a senior master the year after the last cruise . Only got the stupid statue and a gift certificate to snap-on. Think it was 04 or 05. I am a high school auto teacher now. I have seen you around on some of the threads nice to talk to you.

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

Bit of miss understanding, I have my Master License from State of Maryland for Commercial and Residential HVACR. I also have a universal EPA Card that allows working with all Refrigerants, Except Ammonia.