Another reef-pi build.

[Erica-Renee]

I am still waiting for my power inlet to arrive but should be here tomorrow. But I was really having second thoughts on how I planned to wire everything so I had to do a little more research and ask more questions. With help from @Diamond1 , @ScottBrew , and @Erica-Renee I put together this diagram for hopefully a good visual. I mentioned earlier that I wanted to have some of the outlets stay on if reef-pi was off or powered down but also wanted some outlets to be off if reef-pi was off. Here is a diagram of how I will achieve this.

The green and white wire are all tied together across all the outlets. The black hot wire goes to com (common) and is shared connection across all the relays. Next you will choose either NC (normally closed) or NO (Normally Open) depending on how you want your relay to control the outlet.

In "most cases" the relays we work with for this project have 3 terminals (make sure to read the manufacturers specs to verify) These terminals are usually laid out with Com in the middle, NC on the right, and NO on the left. Like so.

Remember that in reef-pi if you have your relay wired (Normally Closed) you will need to go to the configuration tab, connectors, and switch the pin for the outlet you are controlling to "reverse" so that reef-pi will control it correctly.

This is exactly Correct

 

[b4tn]

Time has not been on my side. Between the holidays and last minute day trips to NYC with my family I only get a little bit of time each night to work on things. I did get the most recent order of parts to start building light control. I also got yelled out by the significant other for having random parts arriving every other day lol.

I updated my master shopping list at the beginning of the thread also but here the new parts that have arrived.

Power inlet for the main power strip
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNMT3WL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aviation connectors per recommendation from @Diamond1 for the modifying the Ocean Revive T247 lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G9IVM5E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PCA9658 for expanding PWM inputs for lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9VNXEQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2ch Relays to turn on and off the blue and white light channels
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW15F42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I cant wait to get these put in. These are to replace the audio jacks for the 2 ATO and 2 temp probe plugs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BDC8XZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZHXKN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did get a chance to at least get the hole cut for the power outlet and get the wiring hooked up. The power inlet did not have any instructions so I had to do a little searching for IEC320 C14 plug pin outs but for anyone that decides to use the same plug here is the wiring diagram for it.

And as it sits now. I should have the power module complete this weekend.

 

[BlakeFL]

What enclosure are you using for the power module?

 

[crusso1993]

Nothing to do with your build but I have a feeling you'll like this as much as I do...

https://www.chonday.com/15454/the-writer-automaton/

 

[b4tn]

What enclosure are you using for the power module?

@BlakeL I stole the idea from @ScottBrew Its a radioshack enclosure from amazon
https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-P...0BK4ZBHPCDA&psc=1&refRID=N0903VBXG0BK4ZBHPCDA

 

[b4tn]

Here is an updated block diagram of what I am going to say will be close to my final build. I have removed PH for now since since its low priority for me and I am waiting to see how the new PH circuit that is being developed pans out. I have added a second float switch in series with the original one so I have high and low detection. I have not decided yet but since I am no longer planning to use the DJ SR8 power strip and using opto isolated relays I will probably bypass the ULN2803 all together. Lastly I added the PCA9658 and relays that will control my lighting. I did test fit everything and I will have to re do all my wiring but this will all fit in one box with plugs to extend to the doser, lights, and power module. The only think I still need to design is I have a small 2 volt micro fan. I will be putting a DS18B20 thats in the transistor form factor and a transistor driver to control the fan on and off.
https://www.amazon.com/Diymore-DS18...44214379&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=DS18b20&psc=1

 

[Diamond1]

Very nicely thought out. One of the things I have to do is figure out cooling for my second pi. I'm interested to see how you work that out.

 

[b4tn]

Very nicely thought out. One of the things I have to do is figure out cooling for my second pi. I'm interested to see how you work that out.

Now just to see if it all works

 

[b4tn]

So this was a pain, I am not super happy with how the screw terminals hold the wire. They don’t hold very tight at all and easily pull out. I wish there was a way to solder or use a ring terminal but this may have to do. I will go over it with a better screw driver and make sure they are all tight. My fingers are numb from stripping and twisting wires but it all works.

 

[Diamond1]

Looks really good.

 

[ScottBrew]

So this was a pain, I am not super happy with how the screw terminals hold the wire. They don’t hold very tight at all and easily pull out. I wish there was a way to solder or use a ring terminal but this may have to do. I will go over it with a better screw driver and make sure they are all tight. My fingers are numb from stripping and twisting wires but it all works.

Looks great!

 

[pdisner]

Ok. I’m beating my head against the wall. I can’t get thru the web portal, to sign on, and I know it’s going to turn out to be something simple.
So here the issue. I got thru the first test, as it was fairly straight forward. Need help with the second test however because i cannot seem to get any dimming at all. I used the same resistor from the first test.

Here is pic from second test. I checked and double checked, but I can’t get the dimming control to work. Here’s a pic of my wiring for your review. I’ve also included a pic of my from my reef-pi settings as well, so if you see anything you can help with please post a solution. I really want to get past this and I’m not sure why I can, haha!! I know it’s something simple but i cant see the issue.

IMG].


Well, I hope that’s my final problem that in encounter, I’m hoping as i learn. I tried to include as much info and pic as possible so someone can see where I’ve gone wrong.
Thanks
Paul

 

[Matt Carden]

No screenshot

 

[pdisner]

I am still waiting for my power inlet to arrive but should be here tomorrow. But I was really having second thoughts on how I planned to wire everything so I had to do a little more research and ask more questions. With help from @Diamond1 , @ScottBrew , and @Erica-Renee I put together this diagram for hopefully a good visual. I mentioned earlier that I wanted to have some of the outlets stay on if reef-pi was off or powered down but also wanted some outlets to be off if reef-pi was off. Here is a diagram of how I will achieve this.

The green and white wire are all tied together across all the outlets. The black hot wire goes to com (common) and is shared connection across all the relays. Next you will choose either NC (normally closed) or NO (Normally Open) depending on how you want your relay to control the outlet.

In "most cases" the relays we work with for this project have 3 terminals (make sure to read the manufacturers specs to verify) These terminals are usually laid out with Com in the middle, NC on the right, and NO on the left. Like so.

Remember that in reef-pi if you have your relay wired (Normally Closed) you will need to go to the configuration tab, connectors, and switch the pin for the outlet you are controlling to "reverse" so that reef-pi will control it correctly.

I’m new and just learning. I was wanting to go the cheaper route and do my outlets ast you have them bersus ordering the fancy one for 50$ plus all the extras little stuff you need. Can tell me what made you choose this way? I’m just starting out and would like to have a safe power outlets. I breed a lot of fish and my power strips need some organization above all else.
Thanks everyone..I appreciate all your assistance. As soon as I have something of substance to make my Pi build thread, I’ll ceratainly do that, haha

 

[pdisner]

@BlakeL I stole the idea from @ScottBrew Its a radioshack enclosure from amazon
https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-P...0BK4ZBHPCDA&psc=1&refRID=N0903VBXG0BK4ZBHPCDA

I have a smaller version of that that I used for making something for Neptune Apex. I didn’t like them. They were made of cheap black plastic and had a metal backing that screwed on, possible rust problem later on. The one that’s in the list from amazon looks perfect for this build, and cheaper. Just speaking from experience.

 

[Matt Carden]

The power strip mentioned in these builds does not have the ability to change to normally closed operation. This means that if the reef-pi powers down and doesn't turn on automatically things like heaters and powerheads and sump pumps will stay off until you plug them in. If you had these in a normally closed operating relay, they would come back on with the power.

 

[pdisner]

Here is an updated block diagram of what I am going to say will be close to my final build. I have removed PH for now since since its low priority for me and I am waiting to see how the new PH circuit that is being developed pans out. I have added a second float switch in series with the original one so I have high and low detection. I have not decided yet but since I am no longer planning to use the DJ SR8 power strip and using opto isolated relays I will probably bypass the ULN2803 all together. Lastly I added the PCA9658 and relays that will control my lighting. I did test fit everything and I will have to re do all my wiring but this will all fit in one box with plugs to extend to the doser, lights, and power module. The only think I still need to design is I have a small 2 volt micro fan. I will be putting a DS18B20 thats in the transistor form factor and a transistor driver to control the fan on and off.
https://www.amazon.com/Diymore-DS18...44214379&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=DS18b20&psc=1

So why moving away From the DBS power strip? I’m in the beginning process of buying my build parts. I wanted to just use relays instead with startdard GFI if that’s poss. I breed fish and shrimp, so I need a ton omg outlets and that seemed the easiest and most cost effective. The only thing I’ve decided on is this enclosures, haha! Can you give me your advice on this?

 

[b4tn]

Ok. I’m beating my head against the wall. I can’t get thru the web portal, to sign on, and I know it’s going to turn out to be something simple.
So here the issue. I got thru the first test, as it was fairly straight forward. Need help with the second test however because i cannot seem to get any dimming at all. I used the same resistor from the first test.

Here is pic from second test. I checked and double checked, but I can’t get the dimming control to work. Here’s a pic of my wiring for your review. I’ve also included a pic of my from my reef-pi settings as well, so if you see anything you can help with please post a solution. I really want to get past this and I’m not sure why I can, haha!! I know it’s something simple but i cant see the issue.

IMG].


Well, I hope that’s my final problem that in encounter, I’m hoping as i learn. I tried to include as much info and pic as possible so someone can see where I’ve gone wrong.
Thanks
Paul

Have you enabled pwm in the boot config file? You have to add a line of txt at the bottom to turn it on.

https://learn.adafruit.com/reef-pi-installation-and-configuration/raspberry-pi-configuration

 

[b4tn]

So why moving away From the DBS power strip? I’m in the beginning process of buying my build parts. I wanted to just use relays instead with startdard GFI if that’s poss. I breed fish and shrimp, so I need a ton omg outlets and that seemed the easiest and most cost effective. The only thing I’ve decided on is this enclosures, haha! Can you give me your advice on this?

Just like @Matt Carden said above. The Power strip uses relays that are wired normally open. This means that if reef pi is turned off or disconnected the plugs are not going to work. I wanted some outlets to be wired normally closed so the outlets have power until reefpi activates the relay and turns them off. My line of thinking is if reef pi fails while I am gone I would want several things to continue to run like return pump, flow pump, skimmer, etc. but some things like the heater for instance if reefpi fails I definitely want it off if it’s not being controlled. so I have my power box wired with 4 relays that are always on until triggered by reef-pi to turn off and 4 relays that only come on of triggered by reef-pi.

Additionally the power strip is just very basic relays. It was designed to turn lights on and off and not to be controlled by sensitive digital electronics equipment. Relays use coils (inductors) to create electro magnetic fields and pull a switch closed. In short this can cause issues with interference. @Ranjib did think of this by using the ULN2803 with built in diode to drive the relays. But I wanted to use relays that where specifically designed to work with micro computers. Many of these relays have the fly back diode built in but also have opto isolation built in as well. The relay is completely isolated because it is switched on and off with light built into the circuit.

https://eblogbd.com/what-is-opto-coupler-or-opto-isolator/

In the long run you will probably spend about the same in parts as it takes to build the power circuit that it would to just buy the power strip. That and the power strip is proven to work just fine and safe for someone not comfortable wiring dangerous 110v. I am far from an expert and am learning as I go but it’s in my nature to build and tweak as I learn

 

[pdisner]

Have you enabled pwm in the boot config file? You have to add a line of txt at the bottom to turn it on.

https://learn.adafruit.com/reef-pi-installation-and-configuration/raspberry-pi-configuration

I checked your suggestions and you were right. I never added that to my config. Now when I try to add it, it says that the file is unwritable.any thoughts?