Another magnificent sea anemone (ritteri) post

Browny

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I got a magnificent sea anemone 2 days ago, I’m approaching the 48 hr mark now. The nem has a firm footing and all its tentacles are inflated. However its mouth hasn’t closed, it’s stretched 2-3 inches across. Bubbled around the mouth. It also seems to be struggling to inflate almost half of its body.
Flow is chaotic and indirect. I’ve also set the acclimation period at 25% to ramp up for 20 days.

temp 26°c (79°f)
ammonia/nitrite 0ppm
nitrate 5ppm
Phos. 0.03
Tank mates.
2 clowns (just started laying)
Fire shrimp.
Conch
Various snails.

I know it’s a sit and wait game for now.
what’s the point of no return for the nem. I don’t want to lose my clowns as I want to try my hand at raising their fry.
Should I do a small water change? 10%?
Or will that stress it out more?
 
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Browny

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Lights are off this is the nem right now
C464C970-3EF7-4380-AF4F-F203FEF328BD.jpeg
 
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Browny

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I think it will perk up when the lights start coming on in half an hour I’ll get another picture then
 

OrionN

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In low light, the anemone seems bleached. Bleach is no problem unless it is completely bleached. Good luck with him. Normally, I do not recommend ramp up the light. For me I just put the anemone where I think he needed and hit him with normal light schedule right away.
It is not really the anemone that is adapting to the light (this only happens in minor extended), it is the zooxanthellae population that are doing the adapting. In a healthy anemone (coral or clam for that matter) the zooxanthellae population is a diverse population with multiple strains of zoos. Some do better with low, some with high and some do better with various spectrum. As the anemone is adapting, the strains of zoos that the situation is optimal for will increase in the population while other strains will decrease in number. Because of this reason, the anemone will be better if you put him in wherever he will end up with the level of light he will end up with.
By changing the light over time, you select for some zoos population and give it the advantage, only to change it a few days later. In this case, the zoos population won't start to get optimized for 20 days, when you ramp up to normal level. The anemone will be 20 days behind by that time in comparison to start the normal light cycle right away. Actually, it is even worse than this since the population of zoos that you end up selecting for actually decrease in number as you muck around with the light level.
I know why people are ramping up the light cycle when they are putting in new animal. They are thinking that it is the animal that is doing the adapting, but actually they should think that the zooxanthellae that is adapting. If you give the animal the acceptable level of light that the species need, there is no need to start low and ramp up the light level.
 
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Browny

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Okay I’ve taken the acclimation cycle off, I’ve never thought of it like that! This is the nem now, I don’t have a lense until tomorrow (friend is borrowing it) but it’s pale blue with green tips and a beige base.
thank you for replying
 

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Seancj

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How is it looking today? Is it planting it's foot and staying in place? If it continues with only partial inflation, mouth still open, and then starts to float around, I would begin the cipro treatment.
 
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Browny

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Looking good today. Foot has been firm since I got it. I can’t see its mouth right now. It’s having some scran.
 

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Seancj

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That's a great sign. It's looking nice! Good luck with it!
 
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Browny

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And your clowns are already loving it! I wish mine would love mine lol. I know some species are more likely to be hosted than others.
Yeah, they didn’t take any notice of the bubble tips I’ve had for ages. In my clarkii tank they jumped straight into them. It’s all down to natural pairs at the end of the day. Occys might take to a bubble tip eventually. But nothings better than their natural host.
 

Paleozoic_reefer

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What lights are you using for your Mag? They need a ton of PAR. Mine is sitting under +490. I recently lost my other mag after a year of care. It came in really healthy but it fluctuated from doing “great” to “OK” and finally undergoing the inflation/deflation cycle. It didn’t survive the cipro treatment and I really should have done it when I got it, just like what I did with the one I currently have. Best of luck and keep us posted!
EE9C383F-5586-4E82-9AB4-F6067805917E.jpeg
 

jp415

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I don't mean to hijack the thread but I have a similar question.

I have shermans in mine but I noticed that some of mine are starting to change color at the base and I have 2 or 3 that are bleaching. I don't know if I am shooting too much light are too little and do not have a par meter available.

I have 2 x XR15s running at 80% intensity, kessil 360x running at 25% and reef brites at 60% with a 12hour cycle. They are healthy but a few are slowly fading from what I can see.

I also have a heavy fish load that but I don't think the bioload will cause them to bleach like that.

Just changed my lights to lower intensity to see if there's a difference.

They don't stretch out as far as they did in the other person's tank as they do mine.

Any advice?
 

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MartinM

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I don't mean to hijack the thread but I have a similar question.

I have shermans in mine but I noticed that some of mine are starting to change color at the base and I have 2 or 3 that are bleaching. I don't know if I am shooting too much light are too little and do not have a par meter available.

I have 2 x XR15s running at 80% intensity, kessil 360x running at 25% and reef brites at 60% with a 12hour cycle. They are healthy but a few are slowly fading from what I can see.

I also have a heavy fish load that but I don't think the bioload will cause them to bleach like that.

Just changed my lights to lower intensity to see if there's a difference.

They don't stretch out as far as they did in the other person's tank as they do mine.

Any advice?

Listing what lights you have isn’t helpful, you need to list your PAR numbers per animal.

Re the mag, looks nice! Just keep a close on eye it because it didn’t get Cipro. IMO, every new mag/gig/Haddoni should get Cipro to err on the side of caution.
 
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