Really??!! I didn't tag you that thread cuz I didn't know if you'd appreciate that, but some one is really happy with their top lids.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
So the emergency is one inch below the weir, and the main is 6 1/2 inches below that give or take.how far underwater (in the sump) is the outlet for the siphon?
This seems like an opportunity for someone to do the same exact thing, except not suck at it. If I wasn't fighting my own battle I'd jump on this lolI saw that thread. I'm very happy for her she seems very kind, and she admitted she can't read a tape measure. The 24 hour we keep 30% even if we haven't even talked to you. Pretending to be this huge multiperson corporation was weird. Then the tape measure pictures. I was undone. They are scammers, their policy is a scam, they can suck it.
That's your problem, the main siphon should be 3/4" below the operating level waterline. With 6", it will take too long to purge out any air, and could airlock. Cut dat pipeSo the emergency is one inch below the weir, and the main is 6 1/2 inches below that give or take.
Cut it or make it longer? Because if you use the little diagram here; https://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/ I am set up correct. However, it is a bit noisy. There is air allowing water to slosh around some 90's I have. So I believe you but that requires me draining the overflow and pulling everything out and then putting everything back in because there isn't enough room for my hands with the returns in place. So if I can avoid that. Also, one more thing, I had it just about where you said and my siphon would not start again after cutting the pump. Lowering the main solved that issue.That's your problem, the main siphon should be 3/4" below the operating level waterline. With 6", it will take too long to purge out any air, and could airlock. Cut dat pipe
Right! Yeah that is most definitely the issue. However, a question old wise one. The emergency? The trickle noise alerts me to an issue, if it is under the water I will not know as soon. Suggestions?I'm talking about the other end of the siphon line. The drain end. That end needs to be just barely below the water level in the sump that it's draining into.
The emergency can also be below the waterline so that it will turn over into a siphon, at least that's the case for a BA.
it not having a valve to control the flow it will start to "flush". I keep mine above and I dont overwhelm my pipe diameter to handle the flow.Right! Yeah that is most definitely the issue. However, a question old wise one. The emergency? The trickle noise alerts me to an issue, if it is under the water I will not know as soon. Suggestions?
I read that three times I don't get it. So if I leave it over the water that's fine if the pipe size is big enough (giggity) if I put it under the water line it sounds like Uncle Jimmy after a case of pabst at 2am? So either or?it not having a valve to control the flow it will start to "flush". I keep mine above and I dont overwhelm my pipe diameter to handle the flow.
Sounds like a wet and fun time. My favorite!The siphon line is tuned, but when you start up, it needs to purge out the air. If the line is too far underwater in the sump, any air in the line forms a bubble that has to get pushed out. The deeper the pipe is underwater, the longer it will take, and if it gets stuck/airlocked then the emergency will have to take over. It sounds like this happened unless you found the snail
As for the emergency, at the sump, yes you generally want this right at the top of the waterline, maybe 1/4" under, so that if the emergency is hitting full flow because of a blockage of the siphon, it can close over and "flush" and purge the box. So instead of getting a loud trickle, you will hear an intermittent flush, gurgle, repeat. You'll know...but allowing the emergency to convert over to full keep water off the floor
As will all things, always test it.
When I set up a Bean, I get it all tuned then slap a piece of acrylic over the siphon intake to simulate a full and sudden block. In the Bean case, the open channel generally turns into a flush/gurgle but can also balance at a very loud gurgle. Then I close the open channel and force everything to the emergency, that one can get hairy.
With Herbie, you will want to test a full siphon block. Have you hand on the pump power cord while you do it though lol
I read that three times I don't get it. So if I leave it over the water that's fine if the pipe size is big enough (giggity) if I put it under the water line it sounds like Uncle Jimmy after a case of pabst at 2am? So either or?
Yeah that! I talk words sometimesThe siphon line is tuned, but when you start up, it needs to purge out the air. If the line is too far underwater in the sump, any air in the line forms a bubble that has to get pushed out. The deeper the pipe is underwater, the longer it will take, and if it gets stuck/airlocked then the emergency will have to take over. It sounds like this happened unless you found the snail
As for the emergency, at the sump, yes you generally want this right at the top of the waterline, maybe 1/4" under, so that if the emergency is hitting full flow because of a blockage of the siphon, it can close over and "flush" and purge the box. So instead of getting a loud trickle, you will hear an intermittent flush, gurgle, repeat. You'll know...but allowing the emergency to convert over to full keep water off the floor
As will all things, always test it.
When I set up a Bean, I get it all tuned then slap a piece of acrylic over the siphon intake to simulate a full and sudden block. In the Bean case, the open channel generally turns into a flush/gurgle but can also balance at a very loud gurgle. Then I close the open channel and force everything to the emergency, that one can get hairy.
With Herbie, you will want to test a full siphon block. Have you hand on the pump power cord while you do it though lol
yes. It needs to be more like 1/2" or 3/4", and you will also want to make sure that the area that it is in maintains a constant water level while operating. Such as an intake chamber that spills over into the rest of the sump. Then the water level in that chamber is wholly dependent on the size of the chamber itself (horizontal LxW) and the flow rate through it. So if flow rate goes up (pump is run higher speed) then the water level will rise a bit, lower pump speed it lowers a bit, that kind of thing. Then as pumps and pipe get gooed up, flow generally goes down but the siphon should operate within a range.Ok so it's not that deep. Like maybe two inches? Is that too deep?