Analysis Paralysis: LED Bars

LobsterOfJustice

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I'm considering a lot of different options for a supplemental LED bars and I wanted to throw it all out "on paper"... and see if anyone has thoughts. Honestly half of this is just for my own sake of writing it out to sort out the options in my head.

I'm looking to add a little pop and fluorescence to my existing setup. Here's the deal though... I'm pretty picky about the overall color of the tank, and I don't like a blue look. I know, I'm kind of trying to have my cake and eat it too. I'm not expecting miracles but I'm just trying to sneak in some 400 - 500 nm wavelengths to give a bit more glow. This is an SPS tank. I know different corals pop under different wavelengths, so overall I'd prefer something with a wide blue spectrum (i.e. ~420ish coverage, ~450ish coverage, and ~475ish coverage). I also think controllability is preferred (intensity) so I can tune the intensity so as to not overpower the whites and make everything too blue.

With all that said, I'm considering the following options, with comments:

Quanta Pro Meso Blue - I know there are several of you on here that like these. Haven't seen any real negative feedback on them. But also haven't seen a lot of people using them in general and even less photos of their success. Most of the comments I see are about using them for main lighting vs supplemental, and how powerful they are. That combined with the lack of control worries me that it might not be right for my application. They might be the ideal spectrum for a main light but are they the right choice to add subtle color pop? However, I have a frag tank which I'm also looking to light and I could try it over the display, and if it doesn't work there I can put it over the frag tank.

Theres also the option of the Quanta "not pro". Since my need is just supplemental pop and not power/PAR maybe this is a good option.

Illumagic Vitamini Super Actinic - This is the most expensive option (by a lot) but has control function. They have moderate name recognition and I have seen some sweet tanks using this brand on social media etc. I like the wide spectrum. But dont like the cost. These are purpose built as supplemental pop which is my stated goal.

Orphek OR3 Blue Plus - I have several of these bars over two different frag tanks in the garage. I like that these are a known for me and I've seen them in person. Overall happy with them, but I've also had them less than a year. They seem to offer the widest spectrum, but I do have some concerns about the optics - spread and spectrum blending - but I'm not sure it actually matters? I've seen some people have concerns with longevity. Also a no-control option, but the price is good(ish).

Reefbreeders Lumenbar Blue/UV - For some reason I'm not seeing a lot of information/reviews/experiences with these, even though theyre made by a "major" brand. A few bad reviews on BRS. They offer a good spectrum and control, and the price with control is comparable to some of the other non-control options (Quanta Pro, OR3).

21LEDUSA Ultra Actinic - decent spectrum coverage, offer control, and a good price (similar price to Quanta Pro and OR3, but with control). Not a lot of information/experiences/reviews. These are the only option that offer multi-channel control to tweak the spectrum as well as overall intensity.

Just for completeness, I'm also aware of the following options which I've decided against:

ReefDelite UltraBars - New to market / not much info, limited availability in US, not good price

Reef Factory Reef Flare Bar - Appears to not be available in US

And of course, the original, Reefbrite XHO Actinic - limited spectrum, not great price, and multiple reviews about not good build quality when compared to the cost.
 

minus9

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IMG_0163.jpeg
IMG_0232.jpeg
IMG_0231.jpeg
IMG_0230.jpeg

A couple crappy pics of Quanta Pro Meso Blues with 250w 14k mh. Closeups are bars only with filter. All taken with older iPhone, so not the best quality.
 

jason2459

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If you just want the lights to turn of and on via an external timer/controller I really like my Blue/UV reef breeders.

I mounted them up in my canopy to complement my other lighting

I hate the inline controller though. I just have them turn on and off with my apex but I also wanted to dim them some so I got this power supply for them and removed the original power brick and inline controller.
 

oreo54

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If you just want the lights to turn of and on via an external timer/controller I really like my Blue/UV reef breeders.

I mounted them up in my canopy to complement my other lighting

I hate the inline controller though. I just have them turn on and off with my apex but I also wanted to dim them some so I got this power supply for them and removed the original power brick and inline controller.
Maybe it should be noted that this "trick" ONLY works with bars that are run at constant voltage.You cannot replace a brick that has like .. Output X to Y Volts, Z mA with this.

There are times it "may" work (like if the led string is 24v or less cumulative Voltage) But NEVER recommended.
You have no control over the current.
 
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LobsterOfJustice

LobsterOfJustice

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If you just want the lights to turn of and on via an external timer/controller I really like my Blue/UV reef breeders.

I mounted them up in my canopy to complement my other lighting

I hate the inline controller though. I just have them turn on and off with my apex but I also wanted to dim them some so I got this power supply for them and removed the original power brick and inline controller.
Yes that’s my main concern, that if they are not dimmable it will be too blue overall for my liking. Do you have the LunenBar V1 or V2? I’ve heard only the V1 can be dimmed.
 

jason2459

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Yes that’s my main concern, that if they are not dimmable it will be too blue overall for my liking. Do you have the LunenBar V1 or V2? I’ve heard only the V1 can be dimmed.
The V2. The inline controller can be used for dimming and scheduling but it's horrible. It doesn't keep time on power outage and time sync with the rest of your lights can get out of sync. If ramping up and down is necessary I would skip the reef breeder lumen bars v2. Otherwise, they look great.
 
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LobsterOfJustice

LobsterOfJustice

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The V2. The inline controller can be used for dimming and scheduling but it's horrible. It doesn't keep time on power outage and time sync with the rest of your lights can get out of sync. If ramping up and down is necessary I would skip the reef breeder lumen bars v2. Otherwise, they look great.
I don’t think I require scheduled ramping but I do think that I want to be able to dim the light as needed to a certain percentage and then I can run a basic on off schedule using an Apex outlet running at a constant percentage.
 

oreo54

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I don’t think I require scheduled ramping but I do think that I want to be able to dim the light as needed to a certain percentage and then I can run a basic on off schedule using an Apex outlet running at a constant percentage.
The paralysis is because there isn't an "ideal" solution out there ATM.
You "want" a decent mix of blues in a simple constant voltage array that has just dimming. On/off done with the Apex bar.
Not sure what you mean as a constant percentage though
The bars that fit are mostly "1 blue" like 445nm.
But a simple "pot" controlled dimmer in-line guarantees no "slip ups" from lost memory. Honestly though most do remember the last setting.
Not sure what the issue w/ Reefbreeder v2 lights are. Oh v1 wasn't dimmable out of the box without buying a new driver. That driver is compatible w/ the Apex dim protocol. See below about constant current.

How to dim simple constant voltage bars
Amazon product
how to have your cake and eat it too.
Amazon product


Now that you do have an Apex you can use bars that have constant current IF they are capable of being dimmed by the 0-10V. You will also need to shut them off w/ the power bar (or other timer) since the 0-10V dimming usually gets funky below 10%. So standard procedure is to dim to 10%, shut off w/ power bar/timer.

Problem with that is most do not come with dimmable drivers. And finding "aftermarket" ones can be a pia and may not "exactly" match with the original.
Of course that is an additional cost.

Now there is a "trick" that one can do to actually dim a bar after the constant current driver and there is one company that sells lights doing just this BUT I've never managed to find out if it damages the lights in the long run.
So I'll leave that alone for now.

Now after all that you still want a broader spectrum.

So you aren't paralyzed, you just haven't found a product that fits your brain.

I "believe" somehow the Populargrow" line is the closest thing you can get especially with the ability to customize the bars (at a cost of course).
BUT the whole thing is confusing.

OR find a bar that is Apex compatible wit hthe right color.
The reefbreeders are "oh so close" except for the no memory thing.
the brick looks like a constant voltage type power supply soo one could discard the timer (which you paid for and is apparently dysfunctional in a sense) and use another dimmer like the one simple one above.
Now there is a catch. The ps need s to be 24v or less.

Which brings me to a MAJOR RANT. EVERY light should show the specs on the power supply. At least as a courtesy.
Reefbreeder v2 ps.. Come on flip that puppy over.. Show me it vitals. :)
reefbreederv2ps.JPG

.Sorry, probably rehashing what you already figured out but.....






.
 
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LobsterOfJustice

LobsterOfJustice

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Not sure what you mean as a constant percentage though .

I just meant I don’t need to ramp/dim the bar throughout the day. I’m okay to just find the ideal setting during initial setup (for example 60% brings out some glow without making the overall tank too blue) and then have on/off control after that.

Thanks, you’ve given me a lot to think about…
 

oreo54

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I just meant I don’t need to ramp/dim the bar throughout the day. I’m okay to just find the ideal setting during initial setup (for example 60% brings out some glow without making the overall tank too blue) and then have on/off control after that.

Thanks, you’ve given me a lot to think about…
More info ..
Seems like instead of a full blue spectrum a split bar. Left and right of total blue with a tilt to the left.
2-3 violets to one reg blue.
Maybe be brave and a dash of cyan.
Would be custom.

You liked these Orpheks:
2x 410nm, 2x 420nm, 4x 430nm, 5x 460nm, 3x 470nm, 2x 480nm

Though I feel that the amount of different LEDs is a bit extreme.
Blending blues or lack of blending is not as much of an issue as say reds and blues.

Getting Meanwell replacement drivers that are Apex compatible is possible with only minor differences in electrical characteristics.

Screenshot_20231126-001537.png


Screenshot_20231126-002155.png


Example:60 and 90 would run at 500mA not 450.
3 way dimming including 0-10v ( or just stick a 100K Ohm pot on) so Apex controllable.

120 would run at 700mA not 900mA.

150 you would split 700 vs 1050.
So 350mA vs 525mA x2

You may be able to find a bit better match but this one $34 driver can replace any of the 4 Orpheks.

The decreased ones, though not insignificant, would give you the likely benefit of longer lasting LEDs.

Oh and there is the possibility of a current "upgrade" if the actual measured voltage is closer than what is assUmed from the specs.

For example with the 120. Though the driver goes up to 65v the actual voltage may not. But us it equal or less than 56v? If it's really say 55 you can use 900mA.
Btw that's 450mA per each of the 2 strings.

The only deviation is the 1050 is actually 525mA per string. Decreasing to the 450 would probably be beneficial.
And it would match the other 3.
So it should really be 900mA 35-71v.
Apparently not available from their driver supplier.
 
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TangerineSpeedo

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Have you ruled out the AI blades? Especially the grows? It would seem right up your alley. I just got a couple to replace my current usa ones I am using as fill lights in combination with my Hydras. They seem to be in the spectrum you want.
 
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LobsterOfJustice

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Have you ruled out the AI blades? Especially the grows? It would seem right up your alley. I just got a couple to replace my current usa ones I am using as fill lights in combination with my Hydras. They seem to be in the spectrum you want.
I had thought about them, but

1. extremely expensive compared to the other options
2. seem to hit 400 - 450 but missing ~475nm
3. been hearing hit or miss reports of their quality from the field (i.e. visually different coloration along the length of the bar, cords hanging out, etc.

That said, I had been considering them for a few specific uses because their 12" and 21" options would let me fit a few fixtures in to places where I cant fit any other bars (for example, between my kessils, vs along side them, or perpendicular along the ends of the tank).
 

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The Blades are the best bar light I’ve ever used or tested. The color issues on the Grow model have been fully resolved. The odd first batch quality issues are all long gone.

The Glow is an amazing spectrum for additional pop. Violet does far more than the 475nm cyan region for adding pop and color to the aquarium.
 

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I had thought about them, but

1. extremely expensive compared to the other options
2. seem to hit 400 - 450 but missing ~475nm
3. been hearing hit or miss reports of their quality from the field (i.e. visually different coloration along the length of the bar, cords hanging out, etc.

That said, I had been considering them for a few specific uses because their 12" and 21" options would let me fit a few fixtures in to places where I cant fit any other bars (for example, between my kessils, vs along side them, or perpendicular along the ends of the tank).
Although I am only using to 21" ones, and Black friday month had made them more affordable. The Par output seems really great and along with the spread and controllability, I feel they are value for the price. I know that there are cheaper versions out there. But I feel I am looking at I am getting the spectrum I bought with hopefully quality LEDs. Whereas with Knock offs I feel that there is no accountability on quality. Yes, AI had issues with the first release, but they seemed to resolve that. With Illum's, Reefbreeders and Orphek, for me I have no qualms with them, just for what ever the reason they do not work for me. And also to be honest running multiple tanks, the fewer different apps the better.
So I guess what I am saying is "this" works for me. The others you suggested probably would be great if you can get one of them to work for your needs.
 

jason2459

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I would have totally went with the AI glows if they didn't have first run issues. They were still having those issues when I setup my 120. I liked the slightly longer length and would have been able to use a single app with the AI Hydra 32HDs I have.

What I do like about the reef breeders though over them is the lower end of the spectrum (385nm). It's really the only thing besides they work.
 
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LobsterOfJustice

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SteveMM62Reef

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21 LED USA ReefBars or ReefBar PRO With the SunSetter Controller. Just set the Controller at what Percentage you want the Blue Lights to run at. You could even time set them to 100% when you are going to be away from the Aquarium, to aid in Corals Growth.
 

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Looks like a good option! For $120 for 6' of length I'm going to give this a try. If I don't like it I'll throw it over one of the frag tanks lol.
I just ordered a pair also, will see how they look. Wish they made one similar with some white leds and would be able to use them like a t5 replacement. Will see how they look and work and figure out how to match them with my nicrews.
 

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Just turn down the blue and turn up the whites on your main fixture. You can get pretty much as white or blue as you want.

If looking for pop, I recommend a more narrow range around 450. I tried the broader range orphek and switched back to the narrower spectrum. The LED bars you are looking for will usually have “pop” in the name/description.
 
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