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emilystelck

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All my fish died overnight. Everyone looked great last night. I added a couple new fish yesterday, did not change water. Did not quarantine these fish because I’ve had such good luck and everyone has always been fine after temperature acclimation. Most of these fish have been in the tank already for 2-3 weeks.

ph about 8
Nitrate 0
Nitrate 0
Ammonia 0
Alkalinity 200
Hardness 300
Temperature 78

Deceased fish:
sailfin blenny x2
Royal dotty back
Clown fish x 2
Arrow crab
Snowflake eel
Blue Koran angel
Blonde naso tang
Hawkfish
green long tentacle anemone

Alive still:
Pink spotted watchman goby x 2
Emerald crab x 2
Hermit crabs
Chocolate Chip Star Fish
Two different types of coral (I think they’re alive?)

Not seen yet and assuming deceased in caves:
Caribbean Octopus
Black and white Heniochus
Striped Blenny
Pajama Cardinal

I’m also relatively new to salt water tanks. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Very upset over the situation. Also to add, none of the fish have any visible spots, wounds, discoloration, slime or anything on them. They’re just dead.
 
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SJ wave strips. I got them off Amazon. It was at 0.5 yesterday and today was at 1. What do I do to prevent that or treat it?
I’d do a water change and also put some Seachem Prime in the water to neutralize any remaining ammonia. I’ve used the strips before but they’re unfortunately not too accurate. I think your ammonia spiked then rose again due to the fish dying. I’d do your best to get out anything that’s died so you won’t have any more ammonia source. Sorry again about your fish. Even in established tanks, ammonia spikes can happen. Keep us posted and hang in there.
 
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Here is another article.
https://reefs.com/magazine/aquarium-invertebrates-housing-an-octopus/

This may have been your problem.

So where does this idea that octopuses require extremely high quality water come from? Well, there are two primary requirements that are similar between the water parameters needed by both coral reef aquaria and by octopuses. First, elevated concentrations of heavy metals, especially copper, are especially deadly to invertebrates, whether they are corals or octopuses. And second, reef habitats typically have highly oxygenated water, and octopuses are extremely sensitive to low concentrations of dissolved oxygen. Experiments with the common octopus, Octopus vulgaris, have shown that these animals will die when the concentration of dissolved oxygen drops to 2.5 mg/L, and are more likely to succumb to disease or injury with oxygen concentrations below about 5 mg/ L (Nesis 1982). I know that number will mean very little to most people, so I will take the time to include a little aside here about oxygen concentrations in seawater.
 
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emilystelck

emilystelck

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I’d do a water change and also put some Seachem Prime in the water to neutralize any remaining ammonia. I’ve used the strips before but they’re unfortunately not too accurate. I think your ammonia spiked then rose again due to the fish dying. I’d do your best to get out anything that’s died so you won’t have any more ammonia source. Sorry again about your fish. Even in established tanks, ammonia spikes can happen. Keep us posted and hang in there.
What should I do with my crabs in the meantime?
Here is another article.
https://reefs.com/magazine/aquarium-invertebrates-housing-an-octopus/

This may have been your problem.

So where does this idea that octopuses require extremely high quality water come from? Well, there are two primary requirements that are similar between the water parameters needed by both coral reef aquaria and by octopuses. First, elevated concentrations of heavy metals, especially copper, are especially deadly to invertebrates, whether they are corals or octopuses. And second, reef habitats typically have highly oxygenated water, and octopuses are extremely sensitive to low concentrations of dissolved oxygen. Experiments with the common octopus, Octopus vulgaris, have shown that these animals will die when the concentration of dissolved oxygen drops to 2.5 mg/L, and are more likely to succumb to disease or injury with oxygen concentrations below about 5 mg/ L (Nesis 1982). I know that number will mean very little to most people, so I will take the time to include a little aside here about oxygen concentrations in seawater.
Thanks for your help! I will probably stay away from octopi for awhile since I feel like every I was told wasn’t accurate. Going to get this tank cleaned. Refill with some higher quality products and give it a go again. At a much slower pace. Interesting about the copper comment. My husband is a new construction plumber and works with copper daily. He’s the one that put the octopus in the tank. I wonder if it could have been that easy..
 
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emilystelck

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How many fish, eels or octipi did you add at one time most recently?
Just 1 eel and 1 octopus. They were added on different days. Eel was last Friday and octopus was on Tuesday. They were both very small.
 
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Lbrdsoxfan

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Lots of good info on here to start! Definitely check out the brs videos.

How did everything look/act before dying? Could have been disease but it’s rare for something to kill that many fish, that fast, with no visible symptoms.
This, now reading the tank overall was a few years old. Id be concerned about that octopus croaking and taking everyone out.

Prolly time for 50% water change and some carbon.
 
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emilystelck

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I think they mean for your tank water. Do you have a protein skimmer? Some other filter?
Oh..
I have a protein skimmer but no sump. No one ever mentioned that to me when purchasing everything else. I didn’t realize I needed that. I thought the giant filter on the back was good enough, I guess? I feel really stupid.
 
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I was told to purchase a 4 stage value RO/DI system to that’s what I got…
Yes that is what you use to make salt water for water changes and also RODI water is used to replace evaporated salt water in your tank.

You know this right?

Your filtration is under your tank. What do you have there to clean the system?
 
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Oh..
I have a protein skimmer but no sump. No one ever mentioned that to me when purchasing everything else. I didn’t realize I needed that. I thought the giant filter on the back was good enough, I guess? I feel really stupid.
No need to feel stupid. We all were new at one point. You mentioned that your tank is 2 years old. Has it been in your care for two years?

For what it's worth, I have two healthy reefs that don't even have a protein skimmer! There are many ways to do this, not just one right way. A protein skimmer is a perfectly acceptable way to filter a tank, and one does not need a sump to be successful!
 
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emilystelck

emilystelck

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I think he means your actual aquarium filtration. Do you have a sump, skimmer, etc?
Yes that is what you use to make salt water for water changes and also RODI water is used to replace evaporated salt water in your tank.

You know this right?

Your filtration is under your tank. What do you have there to clean the system?
Yes that I know! Sorry, I’m really new to this and not at home right now. But I believe maybe you’re asking about my ClariSea? It’s a rolling filter that I have. Is that a sump? I didn’t think it was.
 
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emilystelck

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I agree, a sump isn’t necessary (though it is helpful). Sounds like you have a hang on back filter in addition to the skimmer though.
I do have a ClariSea as well. I’m just not home so I’m screwing up what’s what. Hard to remember the brands of everything and which was which when I’m not home!
 
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emilystelck

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No need to feel stupid. We all were new at one point. You mentioned that your tank is 2 years old. Has it been in your care for two years?

For what it's worth, I have two healthy reefs that don't even have a protein skimmer! There are many ways to do this, not just one right way. A protein skimmer is a perfectly acceptable way to filter a tank, and one does not need a sump to be successful!
Not always in my care.
 
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