Algae Bloom / High Phos

Flyangler33

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Hey All,

So the last few days my tank has turned extremely murkey with a green tinge to it. The only thing that has changed within the last few weeks was I added some pods and started dosing 10ml of Phyto per day. I also started dosing a very small weak mix of kalkwasser continuously through my versa pump. Parameters:
Nitrate5.5
Phosphate1.48
Alkalinity8.7
Calcium395
Salinity1.026
Temperature78
PH8.6
My phosphates are higher than normal, new tank they typically have been hovering from .8 - 1, now they are 1.45. Calcium is quite a bit lower than normal not sure if it was a bad test or not will have to double check as calc is usually around 450. I did about a 20% water change on Friday, did not really make a difference. Any advice on how to get back to clearer waters.

The tank is a 50gallon AIO, started in march, had a mini restart in may due to a power outage.

20240819_115636.jpg
 

Lavey29

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Water don't help with phosphate because it is bound in rocks and sand. You need to cut out white light and add airstone because some blooms are toxic. You need to stop adding stuff to the tank that raises phosphate like pellet food or supplements like reef roids. You need chemical media to bring phosphate down assuming your test is accurate. Lanthium chloride, phosguard, etc...
 

VintageReefer

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Hey All,

So the last few days my tank has turned extremely murkey with a green tinge to it. The only thing that has changed within the last few weeks was I added some pods and started dosing 10ml of Phyto per day. I also started dosing a very small weak mix of kalkwasser continuously through my versa pump. Parameters:
Nitrate5.5
Phosphate1.48
Alkalinity8.7
Calcium395
Salinity1.026
Temperature78
PH8.6
My phosphates are higher than normal, new tank they typically have been hovering from .8 - 1, now they are 1.45. Calcium is quite a bit lower than normal not sure if it was a bad test or not will have to double check as calc is usually around 450. I did about a 20% water change on Friday, did not really make a difference. Any advice on how to get back to clearer waters.

The tank is a 50gallon AIO, started in march, had a mini restart in may due to a power outage.

20240819_115636.jpg
Is it possible a fish or coral has died and you haven’t realized it yet? Is all livestock accounted for ?

You might also have a bacterial bloom going on
 

VintageReefer

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Water don't help with phosphate because it is bound in rocks and sand. You need to cut out white light and add airstone because some blooms are toxic. You need to stop adding stuff to the tank that raises phosphate like pellet food or supplements like reef roids. You need chemical media to bring phosphate down assuming your test is accurate. Lanthium chloride, phosguard, etc...
^all solid advice and info
 

Doctorgori

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The only thing that has changed within the last few weeks was I added some pods and started dosing 10ml of Phyto per day.
The phyto and any extra fertilizers can turn your water green
You need to cut out white light and add airstone because some blooms are toxic.
I’ve always fought against this because to me it’s like cutting off your hand because you are fat …
Funky water is a water issue not a lighting issue
image.jpg
3 Sky LEDs and white light on three sides…
Added…I’m from back in the stone age when all mankind had was white light LOL
 

Lavey29

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The phyto and any extra fertilizers can turn your water green

I’ve always fought against this because to me it’s like cutting off your hand because you are fat …
Funky water is a water issue not a lighting issue
image.jpg
3 Sky LEDs and white light on three sides…
Added…I’m from back in the stone age when all mankind had was white light LOL
Well each tank is unique and yes water chemistry is important but pretty well established that white light contributes to algae issues. Maybe not so much in well established tanks with healthy biomes but for sure in new tanks. People use plane white home depot lamps for their fuge algae.
 
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Flyangler33

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All fish are alive and well and accounted for, I have a small yellow tang, 2 maroon clowns, diamond goby, small six line wrasse, and a fires shrimp. Prior to the phyto the tank was clear no cloudyness at all
 

Doctorgori

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I stepped away and wanted to clarify I’m not showing anyone up, it’s just that I cut my teeth on white metal halide and back then you couldn’t solve algae problems by adjusting your white channel …
…I’m not on a crusade or soapbox but very experienced reefers with way more cred than me offer the “no white light” solution up not realizing you can derive “white “
light ” more than one way…. so it’s not the clear cut solution it appears to be
 

VintageReefer

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The phyto and any extra fertilizers can turn your water green

I’ve always fought against this because to me it’s like cutting off your hand because you are fat …
Funky water is a water issue not a lighting issue
image.jpg
3 Sky LEDs and white light on three sides
While what you say is true, it is also true that white light can contribute to algal growth. It is common suggestion to do complete blackouts to combat algae, it’s a tactic to help get things under control. Obviously all of us have light and not all of us have algae problems. But that doesn’t negate that eliminating light can help fix a problem faster

In this case, and many cases, the ability to eliminate white light will put a damper on algae growth. Algae primary growth spectrum is approx 660nm - red. White light is a combination of all spectrums, which includes 660. Blue light is around. 450 and below.

It is not bad advice to run blue only, when dealing with an algae issue. It gives the corals what they need, but deprived the algae of what it wants.

It will not fix the issue…but it certainly is a way to help
 

VintageReefer

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I stepped away and wanted to clarify I’m not showing anyone up, it’s just that I cut my teeth on white metal halide and back then you couldn’t solve algae problems by adjusting your white channel …
…I’m not on a crusade or soapbox but very experienced reefers with way more cred than me offer the “no white light” solution up not realizing you can derive “white “
light ” more than one way…. so it’s not the clear cut solution it appears to be
I hear you completely. I’m a former MH guy for many years. I think what you’re trying to say is “white light doesn’t cause algae” which is completely true and proven

But what we are saying is “eliminating white light temporarily, will help fight algae issues” while we work on getting the tanks issues fixed and balance achieved again
 

Doctorgori

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Well each tank is unique and yes water chemistry is important but pretty well established that white light contributes to algae issues. Maybe not so much in well established tanks with healthy biomes but for sure in new tanks. People use plane white home depot lamps for their fuge algae.
this isn’t total blasphemy or wrong as I got loads of hydro experience, and algae does use a lot of the red wavelength …
but white is a composite color and adjusting it down doesn’t just tune down the part algae likes…besides it has no problem growing under blue light anyway …
I guess my analogy is targeting light as a solution is missing the root cause
 
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Flyangler33

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So what im picking up so far:

1. Use some chemical component to lower phos (Phosphate E or something of the sort)
2. No pellet food or coral food (I feed very little of as it is)
3. Turn down the white channels on my light.
4. Add an air stone

Should I do normal water changes, or do a larger than normal change?
 

VintageReefer

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besides it has no problem growing under blue light anyway
It may grow under blue but it will not thrive. Successful refugiums will use white light, or the dedicated products like scrubbers and macro reactors will use red light.


I guess my analogy is targeting light as a solution is missing the root cause

Agree - light is not the root cause. It’s just something we have control over to assist while we figure out the root cause.

Yes turning down white does turn down all spectrums, but leaving blue on provides the corals with what they primarily need and utilize
 

VintageReefer

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So what im picking up so far:

1. Use some chemical component to lower phos (Phosphate E or something of the sort)
2. No pellet food or coral food (I feed very little of as it is)
3. Turn down the white channels on my light.
4. Add an air stone

Should I do normal water changes, or do a larger than normal change?
Do not use phosphate e or any product containing lanthium if you have a tang
 

Doctorgori

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Yes turning down white does turn down all spectrums, but leaving blue on provides the corals with what they primarily need and utilize
Part of it’s me….
I normally never advise even adjusting the light generally speaking, I just don’t think the corals like it but I got no data to back that up… heck red for christmas, blue on the 4th LOL ….
but if the OP hasn’t put me on ignore I won’t advise against any other advise here…
 
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Flyangler33

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Part of it’s me….
I normally never advise even adjusting the light generally speaking, I just don’t think the corals like it but I got no data to back that up… heck red for christmas, blue on the 4th LOL ….
but if the OP hasn’t put me on ignore I won’t advise against any other advise here…
No one goes on ignore, im just a dumb newb trying to survive out here ><
 

Doctorgori

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No one goes on ignore, im just a dumb newb trying to survive out here ><
one issue you will find on these boards is whom to trust or listen to…I can guarantee you 100% that those I just disagreed with have very nice tanks and did not give you bad advise whatsoever…
I just don’t like messing with my light but like so much other “statements” it’s not as if I did a formal study on it…
Some stuff is fact other stuff is parroted opinion
There are a few paths to a great tank …
 

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