Algae/Bacteria id

[Linoss17]

I have this slime on my sand bed and on some of my rock. The slime sticks to the rock and sticks pieces of sand to it. I can’t suck it out with a siphon the sand that sticks to it weighs it down. I have to manual remove the slime and the sand that is attacked to it as well.

 

[Spare time]

Looks like cyano to me

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have this slime on my sand bed and on some of my rock. The slime sticks to the rock and sticks pieces of sand to it. I can’t suck it out with a siphon the sand that sticks to it weighs it down. I have to manual remove the slime and the sand that is attacked to it as well.

Agree on Cyano. While this is a mild case, cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development which may be the case with this tank

Should this become worse, I recommend to reducing white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[Linoss17]

Agree on Cyano. While this is a mild case, cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development which may be the case with this tank

Should this become worse, I recommend to reducing white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

I bought some chaeto the other day and I found some white hard dots almost like sand on it and it’s hard to take it off. It also had some purple/brown hard pigment on it like if it were coralline algae. Is this a type of bacteria or pests? Have you guys encountered it before?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I bought some chaeto the other day and I found some white hard dots almost like sand on it and it’s hard to take it off. It also had some purple/brown hard pigment on it like if it were coralline algae. Is this a type of bacteria or pests? Have you guys encountered it before?

Hard to see in the pics but may be spirobid worms which feed on algae

 

[Linoss17]

Hard to see in the pics but may be spirobid worms which feed on algae

I’ve added algae barn galaxy pods recently to the tank, as well as dosing phytoplankton to the tank and everytime I add phytoplankton I see these orange brown spots appear around the tank it’ll usually go away but one spot of the tank near the wave make it’ll stay even after the rest of the tank clears up. Would you happen to know what that orange stuff is?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I’ve added algae barn galaxy pods recently to the tank, as well as dosing phytoplankton to the tank and everytime I add phytoplankton I see these orange brown spots appear around the tank it’ll usually go away but one spot of the tank near the wave make it’ll stay even after the rest of the tank clears up. Would you happen to know what that orange stuff is?

Looks like diatoms and easily wiped away with a sponge. The top will have it only as it faces the light

 

[Linoss17]

Looks like diatoms and easily wiped away with a sponge. The top will have it only as it faces the light

I recently purchased a long tentacle anemone and this stringy stuff is attached the anemones foot. Do you know what this could be?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I recently purchased a long tentacle anemone and this stringy stuff is attached the anemones foot. Do you know what this could be?

Looks like expelled food or zooxanthellae which results from over feeding or too much light. Also high phosphate