Acropora issues

10galtank

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Hello, all

I have had both success and failures keeping Acropora throughout my years, as many people have. Although I find more than not it’s a struggle. I have tried many things like to help combat this; such as fighting for better parameter values, lighting schedule and intensities, changes to flow, feeding etc.
In my experiences, acros keep for a while in my tank but show no PE, and tend to pale out or flat out RTN over the course of weeks or months (RTN rather quick). The only true success I had with SPS was in a small 13.5 with hardly any flow and bottomed out nutrients… odd? But for some reason in my main display, they cannot keep alive no matter what I try to do. My parameters, flow, and lighting is wayyyyyy better than the smaller tank. Yesterday, I walk into my room and see all but one frag of acro is dead…. Bummer.

I will provide list of nutrient values below. Side note: I have recently upgraded my tank size from prior (have multiple tanks running) so you will see a few noticeably large/frequent water changes. Values on the higher side but can see a visual decline of such. I also have a problem with temp, tank runs 85 degrees steady… I attribute this to Florida heat but measures have been put in place to hopefully lower temp.
 
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10galtank

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Here is the past months worth of values. IMG_3861.png IMG_3862.png IMG_3863.png IMG_3864.png
 
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10galtank

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I have a peninsula style tank (40 breeder) with two AI Nero 3 pumps on the side wall (peninsula filtration wall) running random flow with high variance 20-40%, and a small pump running random flow bursts directly above and in the middle of the two Nero pumps.
I run an AI Blade Coral Grow light for lighting, and a biopellet reactor for nutrient control.
 
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10galtank

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I think your second to last sentence says it all. 85 degrees, ouch. Whatever you have to do to get in down closer to 80 is gonna help tremendously.
That’s exactly what I’m thinking. I run a fan on the tank, thinking of upgrading to a larger one. A chiller is unfortunately not an option for me.
 

UMALUM

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That’s exactly what I’m thinking. I run a fan on the tank, thinking of upgrading to a larger one. A chiller is unfortunately not an option for me.
What's making the tank so hot? Like what's the temp at midnight when lights are off?
 
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10galtank

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What's making the tank so hot? Like what's the temp at midnight when lights are off?
I checked temp last night around 10pm, tank was at 85. My assumption it’s probably 82-83 midnight. My tank is of front of a window, however, tan is lower than the window. It’s an AIO, internal pumps and equipment probably make it hot.
 

SliceGolfer

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Based on the photo, three things I would investigate: 1) Temperature and a means to lower; 2) AI Blade spectrum and overall intensity/PAR; 3) Maturity of rock structure given this was a tank swap
 

UMALUM

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I checked temp last night around 10pm, tank was at 85. My assumption it’s probably 82-83 midnight. My tank is of front of a window, however, tan is lower than the window. It’s an AIO, internal pumps and equipment probably make it hot.
If your keeping your house reasonably cool say 75 or so I don't see a reason why it's getting so hot. Is the one random pump you have ac? Just curious as they can and will heat a smaller tank up.
 
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10galtank

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Based on the photo, three things I would investigate: 1) Temperature and a means to lower; 2) AI Blade spectrum and overall intensity/PAR; 3) Maturity of rock structure given this was a tank swap
Par checks out around 250 on top of rock where acros are. Spectrum is still confusing to me, care to elaborate? All rock is from previous tank
 
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10galtank

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If your keeping your house reasonably cool say 75 or so I don't see a reason why it's getting so hot. Is the one random pump you have ac? Just curious as they can and will heat a smaller tank up.
Pumps as in returns, sycce syncra silent 0.5. Total of two in tank. Other equipment include light above tank, heater, uv sterilizer, two Nero 3, one off brand powerhead
 

UMALUM

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Pumps as in returns, sycce syncra silent 0.5. Total of two in tank. Other equipment include light above tank, heater, uv sterilizer, two Nero 3, one off brand powerhead
Off brand is what I was referring to. If it's not DC it could be running hot. Like the ones they sell at petco / petsmart.
 

slythy

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Why can you not get a chiller? I think thats going to be your long term struggle.

How did you drop your phosphates from .44 to .11 so quick? Thats probably more upsetting than any alk swing.

Do you know your PH?

My experience with SPS is consistency is king, it doesnt matter what the values is as long as its somewhat reasonable.
 

Reefering1

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First thing first, get your temperature under control. A 10g tank with LED and minimal equipment should not be running at 85*. This is coming from somebody in Florida, that never had a heater, and ambient temp is 79/80*. i run halides in a closed canopy. What is your ambient temp? Is there a ceiling fan in the room? Is it in a air conditioned room?
 

Cool tangs

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A fan should help with the tank temp, although I wouldn't be super stressed, acropora generally like slightly higher temps then most corals. Not saying 30c is great for long periods, but before I had a chiller. my tank got up to 30c often in the summer. Did not lose any acro.

What are you dosing?
I found kalkwasser made a huge difference for me and things thrived on it and the ph boost is awesome!

I would also look at a ICP test to see if anything else is out of whack.

From my experience moving anything too fast with acro, stress RTN dead. Do not knee jerk react to parameter shifts, always amend slowly or trend, between a low and high point.

Phosphate swings I found did more damage then alk swings did both will cause RTN or STN! But can recover.

The other things I found that actually wiped all my acro out was, my RODI system filters expired and I did not get to it quick enough and so I was adding dirty unfiltered tap water and well, you guessed it RTN!
Fixed it with new filters and water changes and now everything is finally bouncing back (except the acro completely bleached every single one)

Get your fan going, send off a ICP to see if any minor elements are making your tank toxic. figure out what your dosing, what do you need to dose really.
Are you doing water changes?
filter some water and make up some fresh salt and do some water changes.
stay clear of marketing hype, cause most of it is garbage anyway.
I doubt the lights are an issue my corals have done well with kalkwasser, 2 part, and black box lights (although I have finally ordered some proper lights and waiting for delivery)
 
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10galtank

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Why can you not get a chiller? I think thats going to be your long term struggle.

How did you drop your phosphates from .44 to .11 so quick? Thats probably more upsetting than any alk swing.

Do you know your PH?

My experience with SPS is consistency is king, it doesnt matter what the values is as long as its somewhat reasonable.
Yes, ph stays a steady 8.1 during day with slight deviation at night. Phosphates, along with nitrates, are controlled by two forms of carbon dosing. Bio-actif salt and np-bactopellets. The high phosphates pale the acros and sprout algae, this is why I hammer them.
 
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10galtank

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First thing first, get your temperature under control. A 10g tank with LED and minimal equipment should not be running at 85*. This is coming from somebody in Florida, that never had a heater, and ambient temp is 79/80*. i run halides in a closed canopy. What is your ambient temp? Is there a ceiling fan in the room? Is it in a air conditioned room?
Ambient temp is 78-79, no ceiling fan but two fans in room and yes is air conditioned. It is also a 40 breeder
 

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