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I used super glue. Stealing @kevgib67's photo, I added the bottom strip in the same place he did, but attached the top strip where the red line is in this picture. This way, the feeding door is still fully usable. I first removed the center screw (red arrow) so it's still possible to remove the clear plastic splashguard if needed.

hood.jpg

 
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What controller did you buy for the LED bars? Sunsetter?
I used a simple Nutbro 0-10V PWM dimmer, controlled by my Hydros controller.

The Hydros Control X4 has a 0-10V output, which is controllable from the Hydros app. You can create schedules with ramp up and ramp down, etc. I connected this output to the 0-10V input of the Nutbro dimmer. This was the cheapest and best solution for me, since I already had the expensive Hydros controller.
 
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I could never get the tank to look the way I wanted with the built-in lights, not even after adding two strips of blue LEDs. So, I bit the dust and ditched the stock hood. I went for a Kraken Reef lid, an InTank filtration cover, and I found a pair of used Kessil lights. Granted, having two A360X Tuna Blues on a 32 gal is glorious overkill, but I love the way they reach every nook and cranny of the tank. I'm still experimenting with programming the lights, we'll see how the corals react. My BTA is definitely loving the new lights.

kessils.jpg
 
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Auto Top Off system (ATO) with that lid set up. Evaporation increases
Thanks, and absolutely! I got the optional evaporation cover from Kraken Reef, it's sitting right on top of the mesh. You can actually see it in the picture. I'm still on the fence whether I should keep the evap cover on the tank permanently though, as it does steal a fair amount of light compared to just the mesh. I'll probably decide once the acclimation ramp-up of the lights is done. And yes, an ATO system is absolutely necessary.
 

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Thanks, and absolutely! I got the optional evaporation cover from Kraken Reef, it's sitting right on top of the mesh. You can actually see it in the picture. I'm still on the fence whether I should keep the evap cover on the tank permanently though, as it does steal a fair amount of light compared to just the mesh. I'll probably decide once the acclimation ramp-up of the lights is done. And yes, an ATO system is absolutely necessary.
My Biocube would overheat in the summertime with the stock lid on it. I had to open the feeding door and rig an exhaust fan to keep the temp down.
 
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My Biocube would overheat
I haven't had that problem, but I can see how that could happen in a warmer climate. I'm right next to the Pacific Ocean in NorCal, and it doesn't really get that warm here.
 
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I haven't had that problem, but I can see how that could happen in a warmer climate. I'm right next to the Pacific Ocean in NorCal, and it doesn't really get that warm here.
Georgia be HOT

HOTLANTA
 
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How’s the tank doing any pics ?
Any updates?
Thanks for the interest!

Update: I've been hit by all sorts of pests, one by one, and it's been a rough few months. First I got green hairy algae, but managed to fight them off. Then I got bubble algae, still struggling with those. And then I got cyano (I think). I've added a second IceCap Gyre 2K flow pump, an Emerald crab, I've been doing 12% water changes, and I'm dosing All-for-reef, Microbacter bacteria, live phyto, and live copepods. I think maybe I'm slowly winning, but it's too early to tell for sure.

My parameters are stable; phos 0.03, nitrates 12, alk 9, sal 1.026, and pH 8.4.

My softies are doing very well, but my LPS are not happy. I think I have one left alive. My BTA is also happy, it split and now I have two. They're both huge and I'm giving one away to a friend as soon as I can figure out how to get it off the rock it's attached to.

I'll post some pictures later.
 

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I’ve had bubble algae and Cyano for months now but manageable. Not much cyano Anymore. Ive heard that bubble algae is the last to leave the tank. I manually pick it out every couple weeks.

my water changes are 5-10 gal per week which helps. I don’t run a skimmer.

your parameters look fine. Did you end up getting a different light? Could be a reason for your lps issue.

I’m regretting the nem purchase. Mine has split 4 times in a year and burned my sps. I used a toothbrush to get mine off. But I was able to take the rock out.
Thanks for the interest!

Update: I've been hit by all sorts of pests, one by one, and it's been a rough few months. First I got green hairy algae, but managed to fight them off. Then I got bubble algae, still struggling with those. And then I got cyano (I think). I've added a second IceCap Gyre 2K flow pump, an Emerald crab, I've been doing 12% water changes, and I'm dosing All-for-reef, Microbacter bacteria, live phyto, and live copepods. I think maybe I'm slowly winning, but it's too early to tell for sure.

My parameters are stable; phos 0.03, nitrates 12, alk 9, sal 1.026, and pH 8.4.

My softies are doing very well, but my LPS are not happy. I think I have one left alive. My BTA is also happy, it split and now I have two. They're both huge and I'm giving one away to a friend as soon as I can figure out how to get it off the rock it's attached to.

I'll post some pictures later.
 
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a different light?
I'm using the two Kessil A360X Tuna Blues mentioned earlier. They make the tank look so much better than the original lights. I may have to turn up the intensity some more, though. Actually, what I really need to do is to borrow a PAR meter so that I'm no longer going by trial and error.
take the rock out
I can't, that's the thing. At least not without tearing everything down. I'm going to try to point a powerhead at the nem, see if that makes it release its grip and move. There's also the 'ice cube against foot' method, but then I need it to move to a more accessible spot first.

I like the BTA, at least as long as there's just the one. It's a centerpiece of the tank, along with a very large Toadstool leather. I'm going to have to cut that thing/frag it, but I'm scared of taking a razor blade to it.

I do about 4 gallons per water change, and I do run a small skimmer (the BioCube one, by Coralife). It must be working, because the cup keeps filling up with muddy water and a slippery film. I clean it every other day.

Thanks!
 

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You have plenty of light but a par meter would be good.

I hear ya on the nem. Mine was the center piece and then grew over 8” in diameter. i just want mine to stay put. They slowly start to drift

there is a thread in here that has a pvc pipe and sponge placed over the nem and the nem will release and crawl up the pipe for the light. Not sure if you could do something like that with your placement.
 
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I purchased the InTank media basket and refugium basket for the BioCube 32, and put some Cheato macro algae in the latter.
Quick follow-up to myself: I finally gave up on the Chaeto. It kept getting sucked into pumps and blocking them. The InTank fuge basket did nothing to prevent that. What remained of the Chaeto would turn into brown goo.

Instead I switched to Sea Lettuce, also a macro algae. What a difference! It grows like crazy. I finally have nutrient export.
 
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Polyp polynomial: How many heads do you start with when buying zoas?

  • One head is enough to get started.

    Votes: 27 10.6%
  • 2 to 4 heads.

    Votes: 145 57.1%
  • 5 heads or more.

    Votes: 65 25.6%
  • Full colony.

    Votes: 10 3.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 7 2.8%
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