OP
OP
907_Reefer
2500 Club Member
Alright, update time! This will probably be long, since it's been a while. We've been busy with spring activities, but loving having the tank running! First batch of livestock was added 5/7, just over 5 weeks ago.
No major issues so far (knock on wood), but we can't keep zoas in this tank!!
Have had 4 zoa frags, the first one went in a month ago today and is hanging in there, but only 2 heads opening now.. The others added later were fine for a few days or a week and then stopped opening, and I noticed some heads disappearing.. First thought was our low Nitrate issue as of late (and I'm unsure on phosphates), but then I saw a Tiger Cowrie on top of one. After some more research, not sure the Tiger was our best purchase..
Levels, RS for Red Sea test kit, HC for Hanna Checkers:
RS - NH3: 0-0.1
RS - N02: 0
RS - N03: 0 (main concern on levels, 0 Nitrates..)
HC - pH: 8.2
HC - dKH: 9.5
HC - Ca: 429
For low nitrates, I've been feeding a little extra, not really "over feeding" but both some flakes and half a cube of frozen shrimp, twice per day. Wondering if I need more fish in the mix to help stabilize nitrates out..
We've been dosing with 2-part Ca/Alk Reef Fusion every other day, ~6 doses and so far so good. It has brought pH up from 8.0 to 8.2 and dKH from 7.5 to 9.5. No other dosing currently (I like as little as possible..).
I've also been raising salinity during changes from the initial 1.023 to 1.025 full (1.026 when ready for RO top-up).
Need to get Phosphate ULR and Magnesium checkers too! Also to note, I've been perfecting my testing methods with the Hanna Checkers. After the first few tests with pH reading 8.6, incorrectly, I started doing more research. While these checkers are awesome, you need to have a solid procedure for the most accurate results. A few tips I follow are:
- No debris in the solution (take water from middle of the tank to avoid floaties)
- No fingerprints on the glass cuvettes (hold from top and wipe down prior to placing it in)
- No bubbles (tap the cuvette or wait to dissipate)
- Insert at the same rotation each time (for instance, with the 10 mL label always facing you)
- Careful with reagents, hold the bottle directly upside down and squeeze lightly for consistent droplets
I believe it was @blaxsun I stole a few of those tips from (thanks!), as well as storing the cuvettes with RO water when not in use. Then dump, rinse with tank water, proceed to test. RO water storage is my favorite tip I think, who wants to wait for them to dry to put away anyway? And then potentially leaving residue in there if you rinse with tap? No thanks!
We added a Galaxea frag a few weeks back, who we're now calling the "Demon Child" after catching the guy one night with his larger sweepers out. He's so small right now, we had him on the sand next to our flower pot and clove polyps, while all were acclimating, then one morning both of his neighbors looked like they got stung pretty good (Tiger Cowrie isn't 100% ruled out however). All are recovering anyway and Demon Child has been moved to his own corner of the tank (upper/right). He is cute though
I did have a "situation" 2 days ago. I had wanted to get a stronger coral putty, and sick of these guys getting knocked around, so I picked up some E-Marco 400 Aquascaping Mortar. While this is "approved" to be used on in-tank, underwater rocks, turns out it's a bit of a hassle. I used it with one coral, got the mixture where I wanted it, placed in tank and it immediately leaks a white milky residue visibly into the water, clouding things up. Not what I like to see. Did a little more research and while it is "safe", it can jack up your pH and Alk and make your skimmer go nuts. One and done, back to Coral Putty and probably $50 down the drain. bah. My skimmer is fine, pH still at 8.2 but dKH up to 10.4 (from my avg 9.5). I did a 5 gal/15% water change after the coral mounting episode, for good measure. Also when dosing 2-part the next day (yesterday), the 2nd part (Alk) did not get cloudy when I put it in tank water as it usually does... Weird, but without researching further yet (will see what next round does tomorrow), I'm assuming that the higher Alk in the water prevented the cloudiness...(?) Which I'm hoping settles back out here..
Fish are all great though! Mocha storm clown pair, pistol shrimp and watchman goby, and lawnmower blenny.
Otherwise, just got my Inkbird temp controller in! To be installed this week. Also have a Jebao wave-maker at the post office to pickup, to get a little more action at the top of the tank without having to sacrifice positioning on the 2 MP-10 pumps.
I'm sure I'm forgetting some details, but that should cover it for now! Except, a few pics (orange filter with Galaxy Note 10):
No major issues so far (knock on wood), but we can't keep zoas in this tank!!
Have had 4 zoa frags, the first one went in a month ago today and is hanging in there, but only 2 heads opening now.. The others added later were fine for a few days or a week and then stopped opening, and I noticed some heads disappearing.. First thought was our low Nitrate issue as of late (and I'm unsure on phosphates), but then I saw a Tiger Cowrie on top of one. After some more research, not sure the Tiger was our best purchase.. Levels, RS for Red Sea test kit, HC for Hanna Checkers:
RS - NH3: 0-0.1
RS - N02: 0
RS - N03: 0 (main concern on levels, 0 Nitrates..)
HC - pH: 8.2
HC - dKH: 9.5
HC - Ca: 429
For low nitrates, I've been feeding a little extra, not really "over feeding" but both some flakes and half a cube of frozen shrimp, twice per day. Wondering if I need more fish in the mix to help stabilize nitrates out..
We've been dosing with 2-part Ca/Alk Reef Fusion every other day, ~6 doses and so far so good. It has brought pH up from 8.0 to 8.2 and dKH from 7.5 to 9.5. No other dosing currently (I like as little as possible..).
I've also been raising salinity during changes from the initial 1.023 to 1.025 full (1.026 when ready for RO top-up).
Need to get Phosphate ULR and Magnesium checkers too! Also to note, I've been perfecting my testing methods with the Hanna Checkers. After the first few tests with pH reading 8.6, incorrectly, I started doing more research. While these checkers are awesome, you need to have a solid procedure for the most accurate results. A few tips I follow are:
- No debris in the solution (take water from middle of the tank to avoid floaties)
- No fingerprints on the glass cuvettes (hold from top and wipe down prior to placing it in)
- No bubbles (tap the cuvette or wait to dissipate)
- Insert at the same rotation each time (for instance, with the 10 mL label always facing you)
- Careful with reagents, hold the bottle directly upside down and squeeze lightly for consistent droplets
I believe it was @blaxsun I stole a few of those tips from (thanks!), as well as storing the cuvettes with RO water when not in use. Then dump, rinse with tank water, proceed to test. RO water storage is my favorite tip I think, who wants to wait for them to dry to put away anyway? And then potentially leaving residue in there if you rinse with tap? No thanks!
We added a Galaxea frag a few weeks back, who we're now calling the "Demon Child" after catching the guy one night with his larger sweepers out. He's so small right now, we had him on the sand next to our flower pot and clove polyps, while all were acclimating, then one morning both of his neighbors looked like they got stung pretty good (Tiger Cowrie isn't 100% ruled out however). All are recovering anyway and Demon Child has been moved to his own corner of the tank (upper/right). He is cute though
I did have a "situation" 2 days ago. I had wanted to get a stronger coral putty, and sick of these guys getting knocked around, so I picked up some E-Marco 400 Aquascaping Mortar. While this is "approved" to be used on in-tank, underwater rocks, turns out it's a bit of a hassle. I used it with one coral, got the mixture where I wanted it, placed in tank and it immediately leaks a white milky residue visibly into the water, clouding things up. Not what I like to see. Did a little more research and while it is "safe", it can jack up your pH and Alk and make your skimmer go nuts. One and done, back to Coral Putty and probably $50 down the drain. bah. My skimmer is fine, pH still at 8.2 but dKH up to 10.4 (from my avg 9.5). I did a 5 gal/15% water change after the coral mounting episode, for good measure. Also when dosing 2-part the next day (yesterday), the 2nd part (Alk) did not get cloudy when I put it in tank water as it usually does... Weird, but without researching further yet (will see what next round does tomorrow), I'm assuming that the higher Alk in the water prevented the cloudiness...(?) Which I'm hoping settles back out here..
Fish are all great though! Mocha storm clown pair, pistol shrimp and watchman goby, and lawnmower blenny.
Corals Happy | Corals Not Happy |
| Wall Frogspawn Plum Hammer Blastomusa Flower Pot Coral Duncan Orange Ricordia Florida Mushroom Other mushroom (have not identified) Favia Acan Lord Other Acan (have not identified) Montipora Clove Polyps Orange Leptoseris | Aqua Lime Cyphestria - started bleaching after about 2 days, had it low in the tank, moved to a little shade on the sand bed, no bringing it back. Candy Cane - lasted a good few weeks before starting to fade, still have it in the tank but it's not looking good. Zoas - Low nitrates and/or Tiger Cowrie issue is my best guess? They start closing, then disappearing.. Acan Echinata - Started fading out after just a few days or so, didn't take long to become just a skeleton :/ (EDIT: Didn't update my notes before posting) |
Otherwise, just got my Inkbird temp controller in! To be installed this week. Also have a Jebao wave-maker at the post office to pickup, to get a little more action at the top of the tank without having to sacrifice positioning on the 2 MP-10 pumps.
I'm sure I'm forgetting some details, but that should cover it for now! Except, a few pics (orange filter with Galaxy Note 10):
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