75g 9 Y/O Tank I Started At Age 13

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Turtilinni

Turtilinni

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As @VintageReefer said, I purchased used dry “live rock” for a tank and fought turf algae and phosphates for quite some time. I dosed homemade NoPox for an extended time and finally was able to conquer the phosphates. Also if you do choose to get Xenia, it can take over. I would only recommend it if you can isolate an island or grow it on the back wall and keep it separate from the rockwork. However it can migrate.
A seconding on the Xenia it seems, good to know. What is nopox and how did it help you? Sounds familiar but I have def never used it, curious about your experience with it
 
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When you feed every other day, do you only feed what they will eat within a minute or two? I ask as I feed heavily, but also stock heavily. If you have an excess settling on the substrate that can cause elevated nutrients.
Yes I am also aware of the two minute rule, they get most of the food within two minutes but another issue is water flow. The single wave bar on the left and the two little gyres on the right side give some water movement but def not a lot, which I think adds to the amount of detritus and food left untouched. Shrimp usually do a pretty good job, but there are some areas that they just miss for sure. Probably less food until I can up water flow is the best solution, the one wave bar just isn't enough.
 
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Yes I am also aware of the two minute rule, they get most of the food within two minutes but another issue is water flow. The single wave bar on the left and the two little gyres on the right side give some water movement but def not a lot, which I think adds to the amount of detritus and food left untouched. Shrimp usually do a pretty good job, but there are some areas that they just miss for sure. Probably less food until I can up water flow is the best solution, the one wave bar just isn't enough.
Also more CUC would help I am just low on all of them rn, ran hermits for years, switched to emeralds but now I have no clue, as there is nothing but an old hermit in the refugium. Could also use more snails, the last of my fully grown trochus snails died off, and all I have left are a bunch of babies that hide in the rockwork
 

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I defeated this problem with an algae scrubber. I mentioned there is a fast but difficult method - that is either a rip clean which is probably 15-24 hours of work, or removing all rock and soaking in a acid type solution. I forget the spelling. Lanthium chloride? I never did it

Another method is an algae scrubber. These are great at defeating phosphate bound rock, they are like a fuge on steroids. The algae they grow holds 5x the phosphate as cheato, and it grows fast. 20 hours a day, this is working in your advantage, pulling phosphate from the water, allowed phosphate to unbind, then continuing to pull more

Compared to gfo it’s faster and once you buy the scrubber, it never costs you more money as it runs for free and doesn’t need media replaced. I bought mine 10 years ago and it still works and controls the algae in my tank to this day

The scrubber is basically working round the clock for you reducing nutrients in the water which then in turn allows phosphate to unbind from rock and release in the water and the scrubber absorbs that. Day and night.

When the rock is cleaned up, the algae will stop having a source and the scrubber hours can be reduced to allow some nutrients in the tank for corals but not an excessive amount to allow the problems to start over

Mine runs 18 hours a day, and my nitrites are is always around 3-5 and phosphate .02-.05. If I increase the hours this will decrease. If I reduce the hours they will increase.

Your refugium chamber is shallow but if you slid the gravel to one side you could fit a floating scrubber unit which is a model I highly highly recommend. Santa Monica surf 2. It floats in the sump, connects to an airstone and then a light timer to control the hours the leds are on.

Once every 7-10 days you remove the algae it grows and allow it to regrow more. It takes about 2-4 weeks to start growing algae (you don’t seed it, it is an ideal environment for turf algae and it will culture it’s own type of algae by itself) and once it starts producing it can take a month or several months to cure your issue. More algae may grow in the tank as the device starts working. It’s a phase. Due to the excess phosphate being allows to release. But it will be weak algae. Pale and easy to remove. Eventually the algae in the tank will just stop growing. Then you start reducing scrubber led hours to 18-20 daily.
 
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Super interesting response here, I love it. So I started running GFO about a month ago when my phosphates started peaking. It absolutely has ripped them out of the tank, so I am trying to ease off the GFO, but once I removed it for the first time the algae came back, so I just put it back in the other day. Phosphates were 0.06 before the last water change two days ago, dropped down to 0.02 once I readded the GFO. I am trying to keep phosphates low enough to not supercharge the algae while also keeping the coral alive, so I like your idea of using some coral to outcompete the algae, bc currently the opposite is happening and my algae is outcompeting my coral. As for the questions, feeding is alternating brine and mysis shrimp every two days, so like mysis on Monday, brine on Wednesday etc etc. I could maybe feed less? I just am trying to make sure my Bangaii get enough food as they are the newest critters and eat more than the clowns and shrimp ever did. For salt, I use Instant Ocean Reef Crystals, basically the cheapest stuff I can get. I used some fancy salt once for a year but never found it made any sort of difference worth the massive price difference, but I am curious if you have had any success with other salts. Water changes are 10% every two weeks, and 25% every month. Dosing not yet, I actually own a doser, and I think some of the chems to dose with, I just have never gotten the thing working. So far I have just manually added and adjusted levels when things are wrong, so I have yet to set up consistent dosing. If you have any suggestions of what and how much to dose of something let me know as I am interested and technically have the worst part done of actually buying the machine. Oh yeah also full RO/DI system, I actually got that in the last six months and I do think it has helped my water quality a lot. In spring when the mountains defrost there tends to be a lot of general **** mixed in our drinking water here in town, so getting to bypass a yearly tank **** up by method of RO/DI has been great. Finally goals for the tank, that is something I think about a lot. My primary goal would be to grow some simple corals out, to consistently keep coral alive the way I do fish. I feel confident with most fish that I can take care of them and they will live good lives in captivity, coral I just do not feel that way. Too many frags wasted. If I could just keep the GHA, along with all other pests and algae at least somewhat away that would be amazing. I know it is impossible to run a tank without dealing with these issues, but I also know most marine tanks can grow coral better than I can. If I can just get coral growth under control, I feel I can deal with most fish and other aspects of the hobby on my own. I am going to try looking for Zenia next time I am out, I have seen it but never bought it before, but I also will hold on if you think I should change anything beforehand to give the Zenia the best chances. So yeah basically the goal is to grow coral consistently, not even complicated hard corals, just some base beginner ones to go with my original two corals. If I can feel confident in my coral-raising abilities, then I believe there will be a lot less guilt on my end about all the mistakes I have made with coral. Thanks for the suggestions and well wishes~ Jasper
It seems to me you are doing everything right. I also use IORC for the record.

I would suggest to try:
Pipe organ
GSP
Xenia
Duncan
Zoas
Hammers
Frogspawn

I don't take back my xenia suggestion, but yes it grows fast and it's something to be aware of. But I love it and it is hardy.
 
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I defeated this problem with an algae scrubber. I mentioned there is a fast but difficult method - that is either a rip clean which is probably 15-24 hours of work, or removing all rock and soaking in a acid type solution. I forget the spelling. Lanthium chloride? I never did it

Another method is an algae scrubber. These are great at defeating phosphate bound rock, they are like a fuge on steroids. The algae they grow holds 5x the phosphate as cheato, and it grows fast. 20 hours a day, this is working in your advantage, pulling phosphate from the water, allowed phosphate to unbind, then continuing to pull more

Compared to gfo it’s faster and once you buy the scrubber, it never costs you more money as it runs for free and doesn’t need media replaced. I bought mine 10 years ago and it still works and controls the algae in my tank to this day

The scrubber is basically working round the clock for you reducing nutrients in the water which then in turn allows phosphate to unbind from rock and release in the water and the scrubber absorbs that. Day and night.

When the rock is cleaned up, the algae will stop having a source and the scrubber hours can be reduced to allow some nutrients in he tank for corals but not ma excessive amount to allow the problems to start over

Mine runs 18 hours a day, and my nitrite are is always around 3-5 and phosphate .02-.05. If I increase the hours this will decrease. If I reduce the hours they will increase.

Your ship fife chamber is shallow but if you slid the gravel to one side you could fit my floating unit which is a model I highly highly recommend. Santa Monica surf 2. It floats in the sump, connects to an airstone and a light timer to control the hours the leds are on.

Once every 7-10 days you remove the algae it grows and allow it to regrow more. It takes about 2-4 weeks to start growing algae (you don’t seed it, it is an ideal environment for turf algae and it will culture it’s own type of algae by itself) and once it starts producing it can take a month or several months to cure your issue. More algae may grow in the tank as the device starts working. It’s a phase. Due to the excess phosphate being allows to release. But it will be weak algae. Pale and easy to remove. Eventually the algae in the tank will just stop growing. Then you start reducing scrubber led hours to 18-20 daily.
This is extremely good information. I have been cleaning my rocks by hand with a knife and toothbrush, but none of the acid stuff which I see is recommended on here a lot, I have been reading up on rip cleans on here. The other option of the Algae Scrubber though is a very interesting alternative. I have seen them for sale before but never had the technology properly described to me. I am going to look for that Santa Monica Surf 2 model, and if I see others for sale I will see what other people say about them on here. It is a lofty investment for sure, but so were RO/DI and high-end lights and I don't regret those purchases. Definitely need to see my options and save up, but I like it as an alternative especially if my phosphates continue to rise. I mean going off your analysis of rocks leeching phosphates, and me just testing the water, not the rocks, it would seem that I am already in that cycle, and this is a good solution. Either that or Rip Cleaning seems to be my best option right now, thank you for this advice it is invaluable.
 

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A seconding on the Xenia it seems, good to know. What is nopox and how did it help you? Sounds familiar but I have def never used it, curious about your experience with it
I found a recipe in here for homemade NoPox a mixture of distilled water, vodka and vinegar. I’ll go back and look up the recipe. But @VintageReefer made a point and it reminded me that it worked best for nitrates. RedSea makes the commercial product to buy, and says it fights Phosphate but it didn’t bring mine down so I did start dosing lanthanum chloride as well. I believe that is when I saw my phosphates really start to drop. I am not sure how to use it in a rip clean application as I dosed into a filter sock and let it do its thing in the tank as I was having the issue in a 160 gallon tank full of rock.
 

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I do not know how to write this post in a condensed fashion, I am going to try my best to keep to the relevant information but I hope any readers do not mind a bit of context for this tank as I think it helps explain it's current state. If you do mind, at the end of this post is the all the relevant information you are probably looking for.

When I was a small child as many of you did I kept freshwater fish, but soon got bored by the simplicity of it all. I wanted a challenge and for my 13th birthday, I got a 75-gallon marine aquarium. I know some of you are already cringing reading that, but know that I also have been aware for many years what a jump going from 10-gallon freshwater tanks to 75 gallons of saltwater entailed. It was a mistake no two ways around it, but until now when I am currently 22, I have been working on that very same tank. That is nine years of work I have put into this tank, the majority of which was done as a child with the help of birthday presents, allowances and summer jobs. So you may be thinking after nine years of work, it is not a very good aquarium. Sure I was young working on it, but I fear I should have left this phase of my tank years ago. Some mistakes are beginners that I have gotten over, but others feel like a fundamental misunderstanding of what I am doing on my part. The main issue I have is community, or lack thereof as a young aquarist. I made a post about this little over six months ago and met some lovely people on here, but would love to meet more. The problem I have with community I suppose is the in-person factor. I have been a ghost on this website for years but only started interacting as an adult, and maybe this doesn't make sense but sometimes it feels like no matter how many articles I read, no matter how many questions I get answered, no matter how much I research, that I still can't break a certain knowledge ceiling. This website helps tremendously with this and I think everyone here fosters a lovely community spirit, it is just hard to make those relationships in real life. For nine years I have lurked at every LFS in Alberta my province, joined my local aquarium society and talked to as many people in the hobby as possible. Now this may partially be the tragedy of living in a landlocked province (shoutout to my landlocked aquarists lol) but I continually find I am one of the only people in the saltwater field in my area, and definitely the only one in my age range. Everyone I meet is freshwater! And I love freshwater but as for knowing a single person in my area who owns a saltwater tank? They seemingly do not exist. LFS owners are good but only so much, I am close with the two main saltwater ppl in my city and they are great but they are not friends, they sell you on stuff you do not need all the time. What would be great is somebody to compare tanks with, someone to go to the LFS store with and talk tanks with. I love this hobby very much and intend to keep in it, I just include this part as a continuation of my thoughts on loneliness and this hobby. It can be very solitary which is part of the appeal, but it is also a hobby that takes extreme intelligence and resourcefulness among other things, so finding other people who walk that path is something I think should be a bigger part of the hobby. Anyways, my lonely butt aside I am going to follow this up with a short history of the tank and its inhabitants, followed by the current setup of gear, levels and inhabitants.

At age 13 I got the tank, I have no memory of what brand just that it was on sale, 75 gallons, big as hell, and sturdy enough to have made it this far without issue. For modifications, I first had one of those siphon overflow boxes which was alright but as I got tired of spitting saltwater every once in a while I eventually got a drilled-in overflow box which using a diamond drill tip was the most anxiety-inducing thing I have ever done to the tank. That all pipes down to a 25-gallon sump, now more along the lines of 30-50 though I do not remember an exact number, just that this one was large enough to fit both a skimmer and a refugium. Down in the refugium, I do have a light for down there but I have not run it in years, the single ball of chaeto I bought years ago continues to grow unimpeded with or without the lights so I go without for algae control. Then there is the protein skimmer, currently an Aquavitro but I have gone through a couple. I genuinely think I did not understand the first couple, but water level control was also more of a struggle back then so tuning was also a mess. Now the aquavitro does a solid job for me while fitting in the sump, and also with it are a Trident pump and top-off system connected to a garbage pale of water (new from Home Depot, plastic not metal). In the tank itself early on I was turned onto using reptile temperature control devices with my heaters, and have continued to do that though now I use an inkbird which I do not believe is made specifically for any type of pet. Either way, plugging my heaters into it allows for control of them, saves the batteries, and most importantly it texts me if the heat goes low, which happened once before that system. Other than that for inhabitants I have housed a lot of creatures, most of which have failed miserably. I keep it within the size of the tank, but other than what I have in the tank now the only critters I have successfully taken care of, IE they have lived out their lives in captivity and not died within six months of purchasing, is Foxface rabbitfish, sea hares and urchins, Wrasse, Gobies, Clowns, Blennies, Cardinals, Dartfish and once a Hawkfish. A lot of things outside of that mainly Dragonets and Angels I have never been able to successfully care for. What about coral you may be asking? Well honestly everything I did before I bought my current lights was just flushing money down the toilet, but ever since I have gotten nice lights I still haven't been able to keep a dang thing alive. Well alright, I do have a starburst coral spread out over a clay pot I bought a few years ago, my largest piece by far, and a neon green mushroom coral that has split once. Other than that, algae kills every coral I have. I have little idea how to tune these lights, or what is best for my coral, and I generally oscillate monthly between 6-hour days of low kelvin blue lighting to then higher kelvin white lighting, but every time I add any white light the GHA goes crazy. This is probably all wrong, I just have had trouble getting solid answers on what is best for my tank. I have had the power go out, heaters die, fish jump out, been zapped by the tank, had ich, cyano, GHA, and several other pests and problems. Killed all my livestock in a day from some bogus bacterial product, just about quit the hobby several times. I keep on trucking but this can be a very demoralizing hobby at times.

The Stock:
-Two Ocealaris Clownfish
-One Tailspot Blenny
-Two Bangaii Cardinals
-Two Cleaner Shrimp
-Three Hermit Crabs
-A Tube Worm
-The Starburst Coral on Pot
-The Green Mushroom on the purple rock

The Equipment:
-The nicer lights I was talking about are 2X Radion XR15w G5 Pro's
-Reefwave Wave Bar
-Eshops 50g Sump
-Aquavitro Skimmer
-Neptune Pump
-Top Off System
-Grounding System
-Inkbird Heating Control System
-3X Marineland Heaters

The Levels:
-PH 8.15
-Nitrites 0.1
-Nitrates 5mg
-Ammonia 0.2
-Alkalinity 10.7 DKH
-Phosphates 0.02
-Calcium 500 ppm
-Magnesium 800 ppm

Photos attached, please let me know what you think. Is this terrible for someone as young as I? Have I spent way too long and gotten not nearly far enough? Do you want to talk tanks, have suggestions or ideas, or want to tell me about something I am missing? Please do in the comments, I am in need of any help I can get. I will be checking on this thread, and not giving up on the tank. I have made it this far, I will be continuing, I am just hoping that some help from real experts who also arent LFS owners will be a serious help. Thank you so much in advance for the help, I am very nervous posting here. I do really feel ashamed of my tank, I wish I didn't but I do, so please go easy on it as I know it is in rough shape and I also wish for it to look like the amazing tanks posted on here every day. I am most proud of keeping the same pair of clowns and shrimp alive for the last three years, they are my oldest critters since the last crash.

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Sorry, I tried to read your post but I kept being distracted by the rock wearing a hat lol.

Great story.
 
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Turtilinni

Turtilinni

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Sorry, I tried to read your post but I kept being distracted by the rock wearing a hat lol.

Great story.
Hey thank you it is honestly something I am very proud of. It is a clay pot cut in half with starburst all over it, and I had it sat on the bottom of the tank for months, but I also think it looks cool as a hat on the rock. Plus the Tailspot Blenny hides under the lip of the pot as his little hidey-hole, and it catches way less detritus all the way up there.
 

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It seems to me you are doing everything right. I also use IORC for the record.

I would suggest to try:
Pipe organ
GSP
Xenia
Duncan
Zoas
Hammers
Frogspawn

I don't take back my xenia suggestion, but yes it grows fast and it's something to be aware of. But I love it and it is hardy.
Or a couple leathers. I like my Xenia too
 

Joe Kennedy

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Ah thank you so much, I feel better already. Looks like I need to do some lighting research as every light has its own system. The copepod idea is interesting to me, they stopped selling pods up here in Canada during the pandemic for a while, at least in my city, but recently they are returning to stores. Do you know any good places that sell pods in Canada? I only ask bc the actual pods sell like hotcakes and most weeks I can only find bottles of Phytoplankton for sale. Thank you for the kind words, sometimes I feel like I am shovelling GHA as well lol, I took out about a 10-gallon bucket worth over the last few months. It just feels so much better hearing I am not the only one with crashes and mistakes, when you work for so long on your own you start to feel like the only person on earth to mess up a tank so bad, but experts like you remind me that I am not alone!
I've read through the thread and agree with the comments, especially about the phosphate equilibrium issue when reducing nutrients.

It was hard to find copepods and phyto in Canada which is why we started our company. We ship all across Canada and offer everything from Live Phyto to Nutrient Control Dosing products with our Boost+ lineup.

When adding a product like NoPox or our Bacteria Boost+ nutrient control, you'll have a reduction of 16:1 Nitrates to Phosphates. If either bottom out, it'll prevent the removal of the other nutrient. So it's best to keep a nitrate and phosphate additive on hand while dosing NoPox or our Bacteria Boost+ to prevent that. On top of bottoming out nutrients and preventing removal, it can also create a terrible new problem and is best avoided.

Live Single Species Copepods - 500ml
Live Phyto - 500ml

Bacteria Boost+ 500ml
Nitrate Boost+ 500ml
Phosphate Boost+ 500ml

We also offer larger versions at a discount AND 5x strength options at the best value.

I hope you'll check us out if you're still having an issue - or feel free to reach out directly to go over a custom solution.
 

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