3 torches receeding over time

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roggy23

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I would say that's due to an infection. It looks pretty far gone but maybe a dip in antibiotics. I also like to dip in peroxide right away. Sometimes you can get an infectious bacterial thing going on and it will take out torches pretty easy, they seem the most susceptible.
Even with a UV running?
 
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i cant think

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Here's a couple pics
I don’t think this was just an Infection on its own causing this, I have a feeling the coral went downhill then got infected.
This may have been due to lack of PAR as I see you run only whites (I’ve not found white to push much PAR so I always run Atleast 15% of blues depending on how strong the light is).
Torches in general are incredibly picky, I’m 4 years into my tank and only now keeping a torch that actually splits.
7E5A4D5F-7962-4299-AFC1-04F81AE9A8B6.jpeg


You may find an imbalance of bacteria is currently in your tank as that generally causes torches to wilt after even being incredibly happy. I had it happen with my 20+ head colony and now it’s staying in the 1 head group… this also caused my Joker Torch to wilt after only a week in the tank. And yes, I was running UV during these two issues and I still do. It does help with some things but other issues it doesn’t help with.
 
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roggy23

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I don’t think this was just an Infection on its own causing this, I have a feeling the coral went downhill then got infected.
This may have been due to lack of PAR as I see you run only whites (I’ve not found white to push much PAR so I always run Atleast 15% of blues depending on how strong the light is).
Torches in general are incredibly picky, I’m 4 years into my tank and only now keeping a torch that actually splits.
View attachment 3134692

You may find an imbalance of bacteria is currently in your tank as that generally causes torches to wilt after even being incredibly happy. I had it happen with my 20+ head colony and now it’s staying in the 1 head group… this also caused my Joker Torch to wilt after only a week in the tank. And yes, I was running UV during these two issues and I still do. It does help with some things but other issues it doesn’t help with.
Thanks..it was only white for the pic.. I run Saxby on my hydras
 

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Thanks..it was only white for the pic.. I run Saxby on my hydras
Do you know what PAR your torch was under?
150-250 is generally the best range depending on the colour (Golds do best in 200-250 IME).
 

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The toadstool may be giving off turpenes that can effect them. I'm not sure of the scientifics of it all. Proximity and water volume may play a part. Running carbon may help. It looks bacterial and uv depends on flow rate for different effectiveness. The toadstool may be the problem. Someone with better knowledge could answer that.
 
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EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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Your nutrients are about where mine are, I'm trying to get mine up to 20ish NO3 and .09 PO4. But all my Torches have been doing well.




Someone wake up on the wrong side of the bed. Why be so rude to someone asking for help. This is a great community for exactly that, asking questions. Your responses are absolutely uncalled for...
Not rude, just realistic. And I'm sorry I didn't have time to go into more detail as I had planned. But thanks for your kind reply...
 

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Not rude, just realistic. And I'm sorry I didn't have time to go into more detail as I had planned. But thanks for your kind reply...
I think one or two additional sentences clarifying your comment re:starvation wouldn't have taken very long... I could see the phosphate being potentially low (test margin for error and all) but otherwise the nitrates and phosphates seem to appear in acceptable ranges.

For what it's worth, the pic you linked shows virtually no tissue. It may not pull through. Torches are finicky sometimes, even when things are going well.

In my personal opinion, while cipro has promise for treating certain infections, I don't think prophylactic use of antibiotics is generally a good long term practice unless you're sure it's bacterial. It may sound like doomerism but antibiotics should be carefully considered, and not so much as a "just in case" thing.
 
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Here's a couple pics
I’ve had euphyllia in this state before. Here’s how I saved them:

Set up a small hospital tank, I use a 5 gallon from PetSmart with a $20 hob filter for some circulation and a cheap little preset heater. Fill it with tank water (or a mix of tank and freshly mixed).

set up a little bowl of 25% drug store hydrogen peroxide and 75% tank water

set up a little bowl of tank water with a few drops of iodine

Dip each sick coral in the HP bowl for a few minutes, and then the iodine bowl for a few minutes.

put each coral in the hospital tank

When they’re all in, treat the hospital tank for 5 days with either cipro OR doxycycline. Both available at pet stores.


They may look even worse for a while, or they’ll die. You have nothing to lose at this point. Mine all survived.
 
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EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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For what it's worth, the pic you linked shows virtually no tissue. It may not pull through. Torches are finicky sometimes, even when things are going well.
I did not link anything...
 

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