15 Steps to Starting a Saltwater Aquarium: The Lasse Method

[MnFish1]

My wish with this article was to show an easy way of starting up and stabilize the biological system. IMO – the first 3 to 4 months it is important to have the system up and running in a stable way. After this period and if the system demands it you can use different type of biological manipulations. Ozon, UV-C, oxidators; GFO, active carbon and other tricks can be handy to use. Because I do not use QT – it is handy to have access to something that can help you minimize pathogen pressure – I use an oxidator for that. I do not do any WC – the oxydator help me to control yellowing substances. I use a skimmer in order to aerate my water – sometimes I run it without using the skimmer cup – sometimes I use the skimmer cup. I use GFO sometimes and a small biofilter. This type of equipment are tools – nothing else. Because I have an interest to do experiments and want to control my aquarium – a computer is a handy thing to have. But necessary – No


Sincerely Lasse

IMO - you accomplished the goal even if im Norwegian...

 

[Lasse]

IMO - you accomplished the goal even if im Norwegian...

Now I can stop writing Can´t do better

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Jase4224]

I found this article very interesting. It’s totally the opposite to my approach I’m taking as I’m following the BRS/WWC method quite closely. The Lasse Method is totally the opposite! However you are also open to the fact that this method is meant for mostly softies and LPS.

The ‘don’t test’ at first concerned me and I don’t totally agree with this especially if you have livestock in the tank. However you have a good point that fluctuations are going to happen and I can imagine that many people would make unnecessary adjustments to chase numbers rather than let it balance out naturally.

Just goes to show there is not just one way to be successful.

 

[Ruben's Reef]

Great article Lasse. Sometimes I think is better to leave nature go its course than chase numbers. I found that when I got some algae problems, between the CUC and phytoplankton that I dose maybe twice a week, the algae only last a couple days and don't need to clean the glass for a few days.

 

[Lasse]

However you are also open to the fact that this method is meant for mostly softies and LPS

It is meant for starting the tank - after 3 - 4 month - you can manupulate it into what ever you want!

The ‘don’t test’ at first concerned me and I don’t totally agree with this especially if you have livestock in the tank

This part I really do not understand – we say that we test in order to have our livestock in a good mood (at least to survive) in the start.

Remember – I´m talking about the first 0-4 months here

What do we test in order to have our animals alive?

PO4 – not toxic

NO3 – not toxic

Calcium – not toxic

Alkalinity – not toxic

Magnesium – not toxic

Nitrite (NO2) – not toxic in salt water

Salinity – not toxic and will not change very much if you follow the manufactures recommendations

Temperature – normally no problems – but okay– a thermometer is easy to use

We will end up with one parameter that can be problematic – the NH3/NH4 complex. NH4 is the first inorganic form that will enter the water as a result of fish metabolism and heterotrophic breakdown bacteria activity. In a clean start – the source for NH4 is the metabolism from the fish (the bacterial breakdown process of organic matter is not established yet) The metabolism of the fish – you will manage with the addition of food – my method includes a very sparse feeding regime the first 3 weeks. The Nh4 (ammonium ion) – nontoxic for organism - will stay as an ion if the pH is rather normal. If the pH is to high – a percent of the complex will be as the highly toxic NH3 molecule. At 25-degree C and pH 8 – around 5.4 % of the NH3/NH4 is in the toxic NH3 form – at pH 8.5 the corresponding values is 15 %. Higher temperature gives higher concentration of NH3. This means that you need to have NH3/NH4 readings around 0.5 mg/l (ppm) and over if there should be a risk for NH3 toxification. With my very sparse feeding regime – you will not have this. There is another things with the NH4 – autotrophic bacteria will convert NH4 into first NO2 and further into NO3 – hence making the produced NH4 into nontoxic forms. This is the reason why I step up in feeding every week and recommend adding nitrifying bacteria (organisms) in one or another form every day.

With my method – there is no chance to get toxic values of NH3 in the start at all – but you must follow the slow feeding regime if you start from total new sand, stone and equipment.

There is one product on the market in the US that could be handy to have – if you are the nervous type and if the product works like the manufacturer says (we do not have it here in Sweden – However - I have never tested it. That’s SeaChems ammonia alert- it says only measure free and toxic ammonia (NH3).


My point is

You put a lot of money and work in order to measure and test parameters of no importance in a start up phase

Let the aquaria develop without too much interference during the first months – after that you can start to measure if you want to alter any values in a certain way. IMO – the most common problem in the start nowadays are the formation of cyanobacteria/dino. Mostly because there is like a holy rule to press down the nutrients to zero in the start. Believe me – you need the nutrients in the start.

Do you run into cyano/dino problems – Then it's time to test PO4 and NO3 and lift them up to levels around 0.04-0.08 ppm PO4 and 2-4 ppm NO3. But I have never been in that situation with my 15 points schedule

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Brew12]

Do you run into cyano/dino problems – Then it's time to test PO4 and NO3 and lift them up to levels around 0.04-0.08 ppm PO4 and 2-4 ppm NO3. But I have never been in that situation with my 15 points schedule

How much of this do you attribute to the light feeding and low energy input from gradual lighting increases? Seems to make sense that if you gradually increase nutrient input and light energy as the more desirable algae grows it would help outcompete the problematic bacteria/dino's.

I also agree with the testing. I'm a curious sort so I would test, but I sure wouldn't spend money on nicer test kits. Those can wait. I am a big fan of the cheap API ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kits. But, I normally won't bother using the nitrate test at the beginning since it won't be accurate if you have nitrites. If you aren't the curious sort, there is little reason to test unless you see a problem.

 

[Lasse]

How much of this do you attribute to the light feeding and low energy input from gradual lighting increases? Seems to make sense that if you gradually increase nutrient input and light energy as the more desirable algae grows it would help outcompete the problematic bacteria/dino's.

I think that early adding of NO3 and using fozen artemia (will giv an input of PO4) is the most effective way in order to avoid Cyano/dino problems. it could be done by using old water too.

Sincerly Lasse

 

[Lasse]

I think that early adding of NO3 and using fozen artemia (will giv an input of PO4) is the most effective way in order to avoid Cyano/dino problems. it could be done by using old water too.

Sincerly Lasse

I quote myself

The reason is that I have just realize that free inorganic P and N in the water column during a start-up may have other positive effects as well. The nitrification bacteria need inorganic nutrients in order to grow well and if it zero in the water – you probably can stall the nitrification process, I was close to this in this thread but probably did not fully realize its importance. But it makes sense.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Brew12]

I quote myself

The reason is that I have just realize that free inorganic P and N in the water column during a start-up may have other positive effects as well. The nitrification bacteria need inorganic nutrients in order to grow well and if it zero in the water – you probably can stall the nitrification process, I was close to this in this thread but probably did not fully realize its importance. But it makes sense.

Sincerely Lasse

Humblefish has seen this happen at least twice now in QT systems. This may be the biggest drawback to trying to cycle a tank using bottled bacteria and pure ammonia. After a few times dosing the tanks up to 2ppm and letting them come back down the tanks lost their ability to process any further ammonia. Dosing P allowed the tanks to restart processing ammonia.

 

[Sallstrom]

Humblefish has seen this happen at least twice now in QT systems. This may be the biggest drawback to trying to cycle a tank using bottled bacteria and pure ammonia. After a few times dosing the tanks up to 2ppm and letting them come back down the tanks lost their ability to process any further ammonia. Dosing P allowed the tanks to restart processing ammonia.

If you don't "cure" the dry live rocks you'll get the P for free

 

[Lasse]

Lasse updated 15 Steps to Starting a Saltwater Aquarium: The Lasse Method

In step 10 I have add a suggestion to put in some PO4 if there is no natural sources

View updates to this article...

 

[Lasse]

If you don't "cure" the dry live rocks you'll get the P for free

That´s true and a part of my strategy, another is to use unrinsed frozen artemia when I feed sparingly

Sincerely Lasse

 

[vetteguy53081]

Well written. I too after 30+ years do not quarantine, but am very selective on what/where I acquire specimens and must see them eating, observe breathing and overall swim behavior

 

[Bouncingsoul39]

Thanks Lasse. Great write up. Not sure how the live stone availability is there in Sweden but here in the US it's not so good unless you are paying for overnight shipping from a couple Florida rock culturers which gets very expensive fast. I recently found some live stones from a hobbyist who was taking down his tank and mixed that with a couple pieces of dry dead rock. I really liked your suggestion about NO testing for the first couple of months. It really isn't necessary without a bunch of corals in the tank growing and consuming Calcium and Alk. Best to let things progress naturally as you say. I will also look into sourcing some Nitrate to add, that's a thing we don't have at our grocery store, at least that I'm aware of.

 

[Bouncingsoul39]

Just an FYI for us American reefers keen to follow the Lasse method: I found powder form Potassium Nitrate AKA Salt Petre on Amazon Prime for about $8.
https://www.amazon.com/HUMCO-263794...x=potassium+nitrat,aps,227&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

 

[PerplexyHexy]

I just bought some too...

 

[Lasse]

I just bought some too...

Now you can do a saefty start of 10 000 aquarium

Sincerely Lasse

 

[PerplexyHexy]

Picked up some trochus, nerite, and turbosnails as well... and some hermits... going the Lasse method... hahahaha

 

[Turtlesteve]

Nice write up - I like the concept and do something vaguely similar. I do hate dealing with pests, so I'd be scared to add rock from many different sources up front.

Years back I worked part-time for a buddy who did saltwater tank maintenance and learned some tricks. When starting my current system last year, I used dry rock, clean sand, new water, and 1 piece of mature live rock. It was 5 lb of live rock and 75 lb of dry rock in a 90 gallon. It's necessary to get rock from a stocked tank - no fresh or uncured rock - because this is what supports the tank initially. I added a big chunk of frozen food on day one to force an ammonia spike. It took less than week to fully process to NO3. In the second week I added starter fish and snails, and coral shortly thereafter.

Steve

 

[Lasse]

Sorry - I´m active in to many threads about this object for the moment - someone ask for how large CUC a recommended somewhere - I do not remember where . In a newly started tank, I use to say around 10 - 12 snails, 10 - 12 hermits and 1-2 smaller urchins per 100 /litre - in mature tanks with many corals - not as huge as that.


Sincerely Lasse