120g Craigslist tank restoration

Finally, I found a 120g for a used price $200.
She’s the ugliest most beautiful thing I have ever laid eyes on. I’m going to strip the two overflows, add a ghost overflow and oh so much more to get this one wet again. I decided to put my money towards reputable equipment, instead of the glass box. (Good timing considering frameless tanks are losing fashion, dang you Red Sea.)
My previous tank was a cadlight 60g and just a frameless beauty. That tank grew coral but limped by with basic equipment. (Lighting,Powerheads, manually dosing) Time to flourish and establish a low maintenance 120g for this reefer.


Today’s 120g specs!

Filtration
-6 stage RODI by Brs
-Skimmer Q3 DC by aquamaxx
-Avast marine spyglass reactor
-2 gallons of marine pure bio spheres
-bio pellets by ecobak
-Distilled Vinegar 30ml/day
-2 marine pure plates
-1 marine pure block
-1 xport Brick seeded with mb7 by brightwell
-1 liter of matrix by seachem
-aquascape made of pukani,staxx,fiji,caribsea
-Brs black media reactor
-Rox.8 Carbon daily
-Gfo by kolar labs

Supplements
- Alk,Ca,mag by ESV dosed hourly by KamoerRemote F4pro
-Fuel by seachem 20ml/daily

Equipment
-2 Hydra 32s by AI
-2 XF 350s by maxpect
-1 Return pump DCP15000 by Jebao

Plumbing
-1 modular marine overflow Bean animal with 1 1/4” drains
-2 returns 1 1/2 inches
-1 manifold powering 3 reactors and main return

Fish food
- Nori, LRS herbivoreLRS fish frenzy,krill,mysis,squid,brine shrimp,golden pearls,cyclops,calanus

Previous filtration methods no longer in use
-diy algae scrubber
-Gfo by rowaphos when needed
-co2 scrubber
-filter floss
-skimmer sn-143qp by skimZ
-High capacity GFO by BRS
-AF1 by aquamaxx
-nopox by Red Sea

Stocking list
-Hippo Tang
-Yellow Tang
-Tomini Tang
-Blunthead Wrasse
-Puddingwife Wrasse
-Canary Blenny
-Twinspot blenny
-Royal Gramma
-Mono
-Lyretail Anthias
-Blue Chromis
-Pair of Ocellaris Clowns
-Lamarck Angel
-Melanurus wrasse
margarita,trochus,Nass,Cerith
-Pencil & Pincushion Urchin

Here is how it looks now! 8/2022

Dual LowBoy Frag Build starts here pg. 34-

Build Thread - 120g Craigslist tank restoration

Finally, I found a 120g for a used price $200. She’s the ugliest most beautiful thing I have ever laid eyes on. I’m going to strip the two overflows, add a ghost overflow and oh so much more to get this one wet again. I decided to put my money towards reputable equipment, instead of the glass...

www.reef2reef.com

DIY stand- https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tank-stand-first-timer.681397/

Previous build thread https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/setting-up-new-60g-cube.335836/

 

[Soren]

B

I’m surprised they tempered a ten gallon, but maybe they figured the cost of tempered was cheaper then the amount of ten gallons breaking during transit.
Polarized glasses is a nice trick. I used that tip before drilling my 120. A lot more to lose there so I didn’t skip a step hah. Good luck on your next one!

I have no idea how old that tank was, probably 20+ years based on the trim design. I also was surprised that a 10-gallon was tempered, which is why I failed to check the old one after hearing the new ones should not be tempered.

I definitely verified no temper for my 125-gallon tank and just have not drilled yet since I am undecided exactly how I am doing the overflow in the updated design plan. I'm updating my build model in SolidWorks now with current plan as I prepare for progress.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

hehe yep. there are a bunch on thingiverse so I stopped messing with it. Just pay my babysitter...
i overwrote the cnc arduino code with cat feeder arduino code. then I got my new fish tank and havent messed with too much stuff... except a 3D printed Jet boat for my kids so I can go fishing.
I have too much backlogged footage... need to put out videos but this saltwater hobby is pretty consuming...

Impressive! That 3d tool is on my bucket list. You do a lot of diy builds so take some pics if you don’t have time for a whole video. I’d be interested to see that jet boat build for the kiddos.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

I have no idea how old that tank was, probably 20+ years based on the trim design. I also was surprised that a 10-gallon was tempered, which is why I failed to check the old one after hearing the new ones should not be tempered.

I definitely verified no temper for my 125-gallon tank and just have not drilled yet since I am undecided exactly how I am doing the overflow in the updated design plan. I'm updating my build model in SolidWorks now with current plan as I prepare for progress.

Deciding on a water level line and the return height can be critical. It’s good to hear your taking your time there.

 

[AbdominalSnowman]

hehe yep. there are a bunch on thingiverse so I stopped messing with it. Just pay my babysitter...
i overwrote the cnc arduino code with cat feeder arduino code. then I got my new fish tank and havent messed with too much stuff... except a 3D printed Jet boat for my kids so I can go fishing.
I have too much backlogged footage... need to put out videos but this saltwater hobby is pretty consuming...

I think we need to hear more about this 3D printed Jet Boat!

 

[Soren]

Deciding on a water level line and the return height can be critical. It’s good to hear your taking your time there.

Can you elaborate on this to help my understanding?
Is water level line controlled entirely by return rate after overflow is dialed in to a set point?
Return height is critical because of head pressure affecting flow rate, or are there other considerations that I am missing?

Since my tanks are MarineLand standard 125 rimmed tanks, I plan to keep the display waterline just above the bottom of the top trim to keep it invisible. The overflows that I bought for my original plan for a 90-75-75 linked system are both ModularMarine 1200 GPH overflows. I'm trying to decide whether or not to use one of these overflows on my 125-125 system, upgrade to a higher-flow overflow, make a custom overflow, or overflow into a smaller tank to use as an attached open-top ATS (probably most risky/difficult?). My plan is to run dual return pumps and reroute part of the flow from one return back into the sump or through a manifold in order to control flow rate (adjustable with gate valves, etc.).

Current model screenshot:

I'm planning to run the returns into the three 10-Refugiums which will each have bulkhead standpipe drains directly into the 125-Reef. The 125-Reef overflows into the open ATS which will have high flow, a grow light, and mats for cultivating algae for nutrient removal. ATS would have large bulkhead standpipe drains down into the 125-Macroalgae Sump with redundant emergency to avoid overflow over the top of the tank.

The internal overflow weir will have a first-stage weir around it with smaller slots to ensure small fish such as cleaner gobies do not slip into weir and end up in a different stage of the tanks or go through a return pump. These first-stage weirs will likely be 3D-printed in multiple copies in order to often swap out for cleaning to ensure flow does not get restricted through drains. I'm already planning this for other items, such as wavemaker guards, so the dirty one can be swapped out for a clean one and the dirty one can soak in a citric acid solution for a good cleaning at often regular intervals.

Am I deviating too far from the engineering standard KISS method and overthinking this? ...Probably, but I do like where I have this system at this point and think there is enough safety redundancy to avoid any major failure due to system design.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

Can you elaborate on this to help my understanding?
Is water level line controlled entirely by return rate after overflow is dialed in to a set point?
Return height is critical because of head pressure affecting flow rate, or are there other considerations that I am missing?

Since my tanks are MarineLand standard 125 rimmed tanks, I plan to keep the display waterline just above the bottom of the top trim to keep it invisible. The overflows that I bought for my original plan for a 90-75-75 linked system are both ModularMarine 1200 GPH overflows. I'm trying to decide whether or not to use one of these overflows on my 125-125 system, upgrade to a higher-flow overflow, make a custom overflow, or overflow into a smaller tank to use as an attached open-top ATS (probably most risky/difficult?). My plan is to run dual return pumps and reroute part of the flow from one return back into the sump or through a manifold in order to control flow rate (adjustable with gate valves, etc.).

Current model screenshot:

I'm planning to run the returns into the three 10-Refugiums which will each have bulkhead standpipe drains directly into the 125-Reef. The 125-Reef overflows into the open ATS which will have high flow, a grow light, and mats for cultivating algae for nutrient removal. ATS would have large bulkhead standpipe drains down into the 125-Macroalgae Sump with redundant emergency to avoid overflow over the top of the tank.

The internal overflow weir will have a first-stage weir around it with smaller slots to ensure small fish such as cleaner gobies do not slip into weir and end up in a different stage of the tanks or go through a return pump. These first-stage weirs will likely be 3D-printed in multiple copies in order to often swap out for cleaning to ensure flow does not get restricted through drains. I'm already planning this for other items, such as wavemaker guards, so the dirty one can be swapped out for a clean one and the dirty one can soak in a citric acid solution for a good cleaning at often regular intervals.

Am I deviating too far from the engineering standard KISS method and overthinking this? ...Probably, but I do like where I have this system at this point and think there is enough safety redundancy to avoid any major failure due to system design.

I’ll be following your build thread for sure haha lookin clean dude. The water height will be determined by your overflow height. The return height is important for things like back siphoning. I don’t think your overthinking it because there are many variables till you get it wet. I’m curious about the ten gallons flowing into the main display. Just be sure your sump can handle any extra water that will end up there when the pump shuts off.

 

[Soren]

I’ll be following your build thread for sure haha lookin clean dude. The water height will be determined by your overflow height. The return height is important for things like back siphoning. I don’t think your overthinking it because there are many variables till you get it wet. I’m curious about the ten gallons flowing into the main display. Just be sure your sump can handle any extra water that will end up there when the pump shuts off.

So I have it right?: overflow height sets approximate range of water level line, return rate sets how high the water level line climbs the weir slots to spill into overflow. Back siphoning should be no/limited issue because of opportunities for line breaks/air inlets on the manifold pipe over the 10g refugiums. Obviously, water volume in pipes needs to be accounted for properly, but each tank should maintain approximate full volume during system shut-down/power-outage (minus ~5%? volume above stand pipe lower limit and below typical running water level line).

Since I have a 125 for the sump, I have options to deal with extra holding capacity by increasing return chamber size and/or running at a lower water level in the sump portion. I will definitely have to prove this when the build is actually assembled.

Each 10-gallon refugium will have bulkheads with stand pipes (probably 3 each for "Bean Animal drain setup) so minimal loss will occur from these tanks during pump shut-down/power-outage. The Open ATS would have the same drain style, although of larger diameter to account for safety and flow from 3 refugiums into only 1 ATS drain/overflow tank. There will probably be 4 bulkhead/standpipe drains in the ATS to allow for an extra redundant emergency pipe.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

So I have it right?: overflow height sets approximate range of water level line, return rate sets how high the water level line climbs the weir slots to spill into overflow. Back siphoning should be no/limited issue because of opportunities for line breaks/air inlets on the manifold pipe over the 10g refugiums. Obviously, water volume in pipes needs to be accounted for properly, but each tank should maintain approximate full volume during system shut-down/power-outage (minus ~5%? volume above stand pipe lower limit and below typical running water level line).

Since I have a 125 for the sump, I have options to deal with extra holding capacity by increasing return chamber size and/or running at a lower water level in the sump portion. I will definitely have to prove this when the build is actually assembled.

Each 10-gallon refugium will have bulkheads with stand pipes (probably 3 each for "Bean Animal drain setup) so minimal loss will occur from these tanks during pump shut-down/power-outage. The Open ATS would have the same drain style, although of larger diameter to account for safety and flow from 3 refugiums into only 1 ATS drain/overflow tank. There will probably be 4 bulkhead/standpipe drains in the ATS to allow for an extra redundant emergency pipe.

You got it down dude! Now I Can’t wait to see this engine running!

 

[Soren]

You got it down dude! Now I Can’t wait to see this engine running!

It has been too long in coming along, but progress should be on the near horizon line.
125-Reef tank is set up for drilling as soon as I determine overflow bulkhead pattern, stand is awaiting empty in the living room with full supports already added in the basement fish room, 10g tanks are ready for drilling (as mentioned above, probably first attempts will be tomorrow), QT's are still running and being re-worked/expanded as necessary to address issues or plan for future potential emergencies before they happen, and vacation time from work has been stored up for a day(s) here or there for progress on the build (although this will also have to be prioritized for finishing my house remodeling projects as well).

Now, I just need to take some more time for pictures to make an update on my build thread instead of over-writing here on your thread!

 

[Soren]

You got it down dude! Now I Can’t wait to see this engine running!

...and you can ignore the top of my screenshot involving too many small side-projects that are pushing me to consider getting my own 3D printer instead of relying on my brother as I currently do.
I'm researching/designing/building a system to culture pods and phytoplankton in a modular system, whether or not this ends up on the back wall over the system as shown or completely separate in my basement fish room.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

...and you can ignore the top of my screenshot involving too many small side-projects that are pushing me to consider getting my own 3D printer instead of relying on my brother as I currently do.
I'm researching/designing/building a system to culture pods and phytoplankton in a modular system, whether or not this ends up on the back wall over the system as shown or completely separate in my basement fish room.

That’s another goal of mine, phyto and pod cultures. Basically free fuel for the reef and food for the fish

 

[Soren]

That’s another goal of mine, phyto and pod cultures. Basically free fuel for the reef and food for the fish

I've been wondering why more people don't do this? Not enough space? Too difficult? Not a crazy engineer/DIYer like myself who wants to try everything?

How hard are these cultures to keep? It seems like they should be pretty easy to culture, especially with a system of several small tanks to switch between. Maybe I'm assuming too much before I actually try to prove it with my own experiences? I'll find out after I have the time for a bunch of 3D-printed parts.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

I've been wondering why more people don't do this? Not enough space? Too difficult? Not a crazy engineer/DIYer like myself who wants to try everything?

How hard are these cultures to keep? It seems like they should be pretty easy to culture, especially with a system of several small tanks to switch between. Maybe I'm assuming too much before I actually try to prove it with my own experiences? I'll find out after I have the time for a bunch of 3D-printed parts.

For me it’s all about getting started. That initial jump off point is all I need to get it done. No clue what’s taking so long hah but I’ll get around to it someday….. I hope

 

[Projects with Sam]

I think we need to hear more about this 3D printed Jet Boat!

Just a little to wet the appetite! Lol...

Subscribe and click the bell on my YouTube to get the build video when it comes out... plus some new videos about some schmo trying to start a saltwater tank... if he ever gets around to editing them...

 

[Goaway]

I've been wondering why more people don't do this? Not enough space? Too difficult? Not a crazy engineer/DIYer like myself who wants to try everything?

How hard are these cultures to keep? It seems like they should be pretty easy to culture, especially with a system of several small tanks to switch between. Maybe I'm assuming too much before I actually try to prove it with my own experiences? I'll find out after I have the time for a bunch of 3D-printed parts.

Its space and an extra fridge. Because keeping fish food next to bday cake is nasty I guess.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

Just a little to wet the appetite! Lol...

Subscribe and click the bell on my YouTube to get the build video when it comes out... plus some new videos about some schmo trying to start a saltwater tank... if he ever gets around to editing them...

Wicked! Subscribed no doubt

 

[Soren]

Its space and an extra fridge. Because keeping fish food next to bday cake is nasty I guess.

Is the fridge just for extra phyto/pods that are harvested beyond what is fed to the system? I intend to run cultures continuously and just feed harvested portions by draining some off from culture tube. I have fridge space if needed, but not sure my application necessitates it.

P.S. My high school biology teacher kept her lunch next to a jar of prenatal kittens in formaldehyde on the same shelf in the same fridge. It never bothered me, but some students thought it revolting!

 

[Goaway]

Is the fridge just for extra phyto/pods that are harvested beyond what is fed to the system? I intend to run cultures continuously and just feed harvested portions by draining some off from culture tube. I have fridge space if needed, but not sure my application necessitates it.

P.S. My high school biology teacher kept her lunch next to a jar of prenatal kittens in formaldehyde on the same shelf in the same fridge. It never bothered me, but some students thought it revolting!

You want to store the phyto once the population is thick. Preserves the life span. The process is easy. Not time consuming. It is also finding the cultures. Some maybe intimidated by the process. I don't brew phyto. But, have thought about it. Along with cultivating white worms.

 

[Projects with Sam]

You want to store the phyto once the population is thick. Preserves the life span. The process is easy. Not time consuming. It is also finding the cultures. Some maybe intimidated by the process. I don't brew phyto. But, have thought about it. Along with cultivating white worms.

I just got some Phyto that's crazy concentrated. Deepest green I've seen. I've got my f/2 now so imma try it.

 

[Goaway]

I just got some Phyto that's crazy concentrated. Deepest green I've seen. I've got my f/2 now so imma try it.

Also, we use the cultivated stuff by ising half and using the other half to reproduce the population.

I have the space for phyto. I should try to see if purchased phyto can be used like the cultivated in that sense.