1 year in but water still cloudy

emonemo25

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My system is a 1000L FOWLR tank which has been running for almost a year. Ever since the tank has been running it seems to always have a slight cloud to the water. It’s not very noticeable when looking at it from the front, however side on makes it quite apparent. It can be hard to see one end of the tank to the other when looking through the tank. The tank is 10ft long but I don’t think that’s the issue.

Temp: 26.7
Salinity: 34.9
Ammonia: <0.05
Nitrite: <0.01
Nitrate: 20-25
Oxygen: 6
KH: 11
Calcium: 520
Magnesium: 1760
Phosphate: 1.8
Silica: <0.1
PH: 8

Does any one have an ideas where I’m going wrong ? I know phosphates are high but I wouldn’t expect them to cloud like that and they are coming down with no improvement to the water. I’ve also got a very strong UV running 24/7 so don’t think bacterial bloom.
 
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emonemo25

emonemo25

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main parameters are very high as others have said. With mag cal and dKh that high I am wondering if something is going on with the way you mix your SW, have you checked salinity with more than one instrument? Are you skimming?
Calcium and stuff has always been high but I think that’s to do with the salt I use. It’s the tropic Marine pro. As far as I’m aware it’s designed for reef tanks and it aims to be higher to give you longer before your coral deplete it. I don’t have coral yet but I am planning to change that soon hopefully. I think part of the issue with that could be I don’t have coral depleting these high levels. That being said there could be some inaccuracies with me and the test kits. I use JBL Pro lab marine. For Salinity I use the Hannah tester. I don’t have anything else to validate it’s right but I’d be surprised if it’s wrong, all my Hannah stuff is very good and it was calibrated just a few weeks ago
 
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Coinzmans Reef

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I have set up new tanks that looks 100 times worse than yours and in 24 hours they are crystal clear by using a diatom filter. If you have no success with the diatom than it is not particulate matter.
 
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emonemo25

emonemo25

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I have set up new tanks that looks 100 times worse than yours and in 24 hours they are crystal clear by using a diatom filter. If you have no success with the diatom than it is not particulate matter.
What’s that ? I’ve never heard of it and is there a specific brand you would recommend?
 
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nothing_fancy

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Calcium and stuff has always been high but I think that’s to do with the salt I use. It’s the tropic Marine pro. As far as I’m aware it’s designed for reef tanks and it aims to be higher to give you longer before your coral deplete it. I don’t have coral yet but I am planning to change that soon hopefully. I think part of the issue with that could be I don’t have coral depleting these high levels. That being said there could be some inaccuracies with me and the test kits. I use JBL Pro lab marine. For Salinity I use the Hannah tester. I don’t have anything else to validate it’s right but I’d be surprised if it’s wrong, all my Hannah stuff is very good and it was calibrated just a few weeks ago
Ok, ya thats why I asked I thought maybe you were using something like Reef Crystals or something Reef oriented. That explains the high numbers. Maybe switch to just regular instant ocean. Might not solve this particular problem but Id say if your fish only you might have a lot of elements building up in the system over time, elements outside of cal and mag. I like many others use Hannah tester as well for salinity but it can be off sometimes by a point, the tropic Marin hydrometer is a really good thing for someone in your situation that might have questions, just use the hydrometer every now and again to test against ur Hannah to make sure its still in Cal.
 
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Coinzmans Reef

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This is what I use now with diatom powder.

Marineland Magnum Polishing Internal Canister Filter​


You can find info online on setting it up, If you really want to give it a try I will walk you thru it. Ask anyone who has used this and they will tell you how well it works as long as we are talking suspended matter and not something else.
 
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vetteguy53081

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My system is a 1000L FOWLR tank which has been running for almost a year. Ever since the tank has been running it seems to always have a slight cloud to the water. It’s not very noticeable when looking at it from the front, however side on makes it quite apparent. It can be hard to see one end of the tank to the other when looking through the tank. The tank is 10ft long but I don’t think that’s the issue.

Temp: 26.7
Salinity: 34.9
Ammonia: <0.05
Nitrite: <0.01
Nitrate: 20-25
Oxygen: 6
KH: 11
Calcium: 520
Magnesium: 1760
Phosphate: 1.8
Silica: <0.1
PH: 8

Does any one have an ideas where I’m going wrong ? I know phosphates are high but I wouldn’t expect them to cloud like that and they are coming down with no improvement to the water. I’ve also got a very strong UV running 24/7 so don’t think bacterial bloom.
Having a 10ft tank myself, I am curious about filtration. I assume tank has overflows?
If so, what is below in terms of skimmer, filter socks, (i see UV unit) , etc
Phos is elevated (get closer to.1) and MAG is highly elevated and the salt you mention is not known for high Mag content.
Calcium too elevated and with dkh of 11, I suspect precipitation and ammonia level is up a little but acceptable for a FOWLER system.
 
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emonemo25

emonemo25

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This is what I use now with diatom powder.

Marineland Magnum Polishing Internal Canister Filter​


You can find info online on setting it up, If you really want to give it a try I will walk you thru it. Ask anyone who has used this and they will tell you how well it works as long as we are talking suspended matter and not something else.
Thanks ! I’ll definitely check that out. Might have to find an alternative because so far can’t find a place that ships to Uk but I’ll keep looking
 
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emonemo25

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Ok, ya thats why I asked I thought maybe you were using something like Reef Crystals or something Reef oriented. That explains the high numbers. Maybe switch to just regular instant ocean. Might not solve this particular problem but Id say if your fish only you might have a lot of elements building up in the system over time, elements outside of cal and mag. I like many others use Hannah tester as well for salinity but it can be off sometimes by a point, the tropic Marin hydrometer is a really good thing for someone in your situation that might have questions, just use the hydrometer every now and again to test against ur Hannah to make sure its still in Cal.
Amazing thanks! Yeah you could be right with the instant ocean. I’ve heard that’s low calcium. I don’t know if I would be better getting the phosphate down and then getting some coral in to start using up all these excess minerals, or is it too high that the coral will sulk anyway ?
 
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emonemo25

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Having a 10ft tank myself, I am curious about filtration. I assume tank has overflows?
If so, what is below in terms of skimmer, filter socks, (i see UV unit) , etc
Phos is elevated (get closer to.1) and MAG is highly elevated and the salt you mention is not known for high Mag content.
Calcium too elevated and with dkh of 11, I suspect precipitation and ammonia level is up a little but acceptable for a FOWLER system.
Yes two overflows, one at each end. I’m running two Fluval X6’s so no socks but polishing pads, they are changed every 2 weeks. I’ve got phosguard in and Aquavitro Phosfiltrum to take phosphate down.

I couldn’t say ammonia was elevated. At least none of my tests have picked it up to say so. As far as I’m aware it’s as low as the test can read.

What would be best course to get KH, Mg and Ca down ? I was thinking get phosphate in order, then add coral and do it the natural way to deplete it but I’m not sure if it’s too high anyway so coral will just sulk
 
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vetteguy53081

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Yes two overflows, one at each end. I’m running two Fluval X6’s so no socks but polishing pads, they are changed every 2 weeks. I’ve got phosguard in and Aquavitro Phosfiltrum to take phosphate down.

I couldn’t say ammonia was elevated. At least none of my tests have picked it up to say so. As far as I’m aware it’s as low as the test can read.

What would be best course to get KH, Mg and Ca down ? I was thinking get phosphate in order, then add coral and do it the natural way to deplete it but I’m not sure if it’s too high anyway so coral will just sulk
Best course its to not dose any of it and I recommend for 2 weeks to do daily 2-3 gallon water changes which should take under 10 minutes. If you see a nice drop, continue this until your levels reach desired numbers. I suspected filters which while they can work require more frequent servicing (advantage of a sump) and the issue you are likely facing is the canisters are mechanical units and you want to have mechanical , biological and chemical to manage proper water quality. The canister will polish water and trap particles via the cartridge but lose their abilities quickly based on load as you may have in your tank.
Chemical is what traps and breaks down chemical compounds such as feces and uneaten food often accomplished carbon and GFO
Biological is what utilizes the natural process of biological filtration such as use of ceramic nuggets, bio blocks, and microscopic bacteria surfaces as examples. Best it to add or use a hang on refugium such as Reef octopus or AquaMaxx unit and even add a hang on skimmer such as ice cap K2 100
Ammonia spike may have been very possible and often undetectable after the spike event.
 
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emonemo25

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Not used this salt but if calcium, alk and mag are high, it’s a safe bet your salinity is out of whack.
It would make sense but it’s not, I’m nearly positive. Hannah is showing 34.9 and as much as I wouldn’t bank on it I have a £20 Amazon tester and it’s saying 35.1. I think it’s ok which is even more puzzling
 
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I had this same problem but after a year or so it went away on its own. I never changed anything. I suspect it was some kind of bacterial bloom. You can try a uv sterilizer but they can be bad for your good bacteria.
 
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emonemo25

emonemo25

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Best course its to not dose any of it and I recommend for 2 weeks to do daily 2-3 gallon water changes which should take under 10 minutes. If you see a nice drop, continue this until your levels reach desired numbers. I suspected filters which while they can work require more frequent servicing (advantage of a sump) and the issue you are likely facing is the canisters are mechanical units and you want to have mechanical , biological and chemical to manage proper water quality. The canister will polish water and trap particles via the cartridge but lose their abilities quickly based on load as you may have in your tank.
Chemical is what traps and breaks down chemical compounds such as feces and uneaten food often accomplished carbon and GFO
Biological is what utilizes the natural process of biological filtration such as use of ceramic nuggets, bio blocks, and microscopic bacteria surfaces as examples. Best it to add or use a hang on refugium such as Reef octopus or AquaMaxx unit and even add a hang on skimmer such as ice cap K2 100
Ammonia spike may have been very possible and often undetectable after the spike event.
Thanks for all the great info and detail ! Always appreciate it from someone who knows their stuff. I’ll start looking into what you have said and order some stuff.

I’m not sure about the ammonia spike because I’ve not seen signs of a spike. Touch wood, everything is good. I do have some inverts in the tank and I’d expect them to show some signs. I couldn’t tell you for sure, I’ve just not seen anything to suggest it.
 
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