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Calmwaters

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2/1 ratio of tank water and 3% hydrogen peroxide (3% !!!!!!! ) for 8-10 minutes. Rinse with tank water and replace. It will take between 24-48 hours before you see it working and in 5-7 days the frag plug will be completely clean.
Thank you
 

tbrown

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Ok how do you guys do peroxide dips? I am finding lots of ways but trust you guys. I have some corals that are getting hair algea on them and I don't want the algea to cause them issues.
I don't peroxide dip - I prefer the Q-tip with peroxide and dab a little straight peroxide on the hair algae avoiding the coral. Let it sit for 5 minutes or so and then rinse and put back in the tank.
 

Calmwaters

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I don't peroxide dip - I prefer the Q-tip with peroxide and dab a little straight peroxide on the hair algae avoiding the coral. Let it sit for 5 minutes or so and then rinse and put back in the tank.
Too late for that method on most of then as the algea is actually on the coral. Some zoas, hammers, acros and firework polyps.
 

JoJosReef

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Too late for that method on most of then as the algea is actually on the coral. Some zoas, hammers, acros and firework polyps.
Zoas and clove polyps are pretty tolerant. I use a little bulb dropper and drop H2O2 right into the algae. Clears it up very fast with nothing remaining. I first bother the zoas a bit so that they close up first, then you can get the H2O2 inbetween their polyps right at the algae.

For acros, do you have a picture of the problem? GHA shouldn't be growing on flesh, so it sounds like the acros have some tissue necrosis allowing GHA to grow on skeleton. I'd go with @tbrown recommendations for this or continue with the 3% dip as advised earlier.

Algae in the hammer skeleton? I just use the dropper again, trying to avoid it going right into the head/polyps.
 

JoJosReef

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Generally when it's gha shouldn't the same coral fight it?
If there is any exposed skeleton, algae can latch on. For Euphyllia, their skeleton is fair game, but often not the best place since their polyps can shade out the skeleton. CUC tend to be able to clean it up too. Bubble algae can also be problematic when it comes to exposed skeletons.
 

kevgib67

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And are there types of corals that should not be dipped?
I have only used it on zoa frags but I have dipped a toothbrush in undiluted and scrubbed other plugs as well as dosed the the tank.
 

luis angel

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If there is any exposed skeleton, algae can latch on. For Euphyllia, their skeleton is fair game, but often not the best place since their polyps can shade out the skeleton. CUC tend to be able to clean it up too. Bubble algae can also be problematic when it comes to exposed skeletons.
From time to time I get some in the zoas and palys but as you say, the cuc immediately goes and eliminates it, but I don't know why I get the idea that I read somewhere that if the coral is healthy it fights for nutrients and can eliminate gha too not letting it feed
 

tbrown

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From time to time I get some in the zoas and palys but as you say, the cuc immediately goes and eliminates it, but I don't know why I get the idea that I read somewhere that if the coral is healthy it fights for nutrients and can eliminate gha too not letting it feed
It won't kill the GHA, but if the tank is healthy and a good balance, the corals are usually happy. Happy corals can outcompete algae for nutrients. Unfortunately most healthy corals cannot grow over algae once the algae has taken a foothold, but healthy algae can irritate coral flesh to the point of recession and the algae will grow where the recession happened.
 

JoJosReef

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From time to time I get some in the zoas and palys but as you say, the cuc immediately goes and eliminates it, but I don't know why I get the idea that I read somewhere that if the coral is healthy it fights for nutrients and can eliminate gha too not letting it feed
My favorite for zoas is just my conch. I could put a completely hairy frag of zoas on the sand bed and the conch would clean it up overnight. In my algae-ous nano, I'd take them off the rocks and put them in the sand bed for a day if they got bad.
 

kevgib67

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My favorite for zoas is just my conch. I could put a completely hairy frag of zoas on the sand bed and the conch would clean it up overnight. In my algae-ous nano, I'd take them off the rocks and put them in the sand bed for a day if they got bad.
Wow, I never thought of that. I’ll give that a try next time especially since I worry, at times, my conch might not have enough to eat. I occasionally throw an algae wafer in.
 

tbrown

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Too late for that method on most of then as the algea is actually on the coral. Some zoas, hammers, acros and firework polyps.
Are you positive there's nothing adding rust or iron to the water column? No rusty motors or magnets?

Rust caused a pretty aggressive GHA outbreak in one of my old tanks. And it wasn't a large amount of rust either.
 

Calmwaters

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Here are pictures of what I'm dealing with. I don't see algea on the hammers but I don't think they are opening as much as they should or maybe I'm wrong.
 

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Calmwaters

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Are you positive there's nothing adding rust or iron to the water column? No rusty motors or magnets?

Rust caused a pretty aggressive GHA outbreak in one of my old tanks. And it wasn't a large amount of rust either.
No I don't have any magnets and anything with a motor is relatively new.
 
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Yeah unfortunately. I was hoping that's what it was. I found the poor guy doing a head stand on my cyphastrea frag, wrapped up by snails :(
Before I got my trigger I'd buy one every year and a half.
One day fine, next day no mas....
 

luis angel

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Here are pictures of what I'm dealing with. I don't see algea on the hammers but I don't think they are opening as much as they should or maybe I'm wrong.
Amanda, have you tried to corroborate your parameters with another type of test or in an LFS?
 

WalkerLovesTheOcean

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Let's say I get home, fill the tank with water and I see no leaks. Would I have to re-seal it or could I leave the current seal? I have no idea what the tank has been through or how old it is.
 
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