wrasse QT question

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Hello everyone
I recently purchased a bunch of wrasse to QT and place into my display tank. I put sand in the tank so that they have a place to sleep and not stress out too much along with some PVC. I will start copper power tomorrow or the following day once they’re all settled in. I know wrasse can be sensitive to prazi but I know they come with flukes.

Should I use prazipro or general cure? To make sure there’s no flukes?
 

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Hello everyone
I recently purchased a bunch of wrasse to QT and place into my display tank. I put sand in the tank so that they have a place to sleep and not stress out too much along with some PVC. I will start copper power tomorrow or the following day once they’re all settled in. I know wrasse can be sensitive to prazi but I know they come with flukes.

Should I use prazipro or general cure? To make sure there’s no flukes?
Wrasses are intolerable of high copper levels in many cases.
Copper safe starts to work at 2.0
I recommend treatment at 2.1-2.2 monitored with reliable kit such as Hanna brand and added aeration
A bowl of sand is often sufficient
 
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bshake

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Wrasses are intolerable of high copper levels in many cases.
Copper safe starts to work at 2.0
I recommend treatment at 2.1-2.2 monitored with reliable kit such as Hanna brand and added aeration
A bowl of sand is often sufficient
What about got flukes?
 

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What about got flukes?
Prazi pro ok to use and dose at 80% of recommended applying one dose to last 8 days, change water and one more for another 8 days and add air stone as prazi reduces oxygen
 
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Prazi pro ok to use and dose at 80% of recommended applying one dose to last 8 days, change water and one more for another 8 days and add air stone as prazi reduces oxygen
thank you. So treatment 8 days apart with a water change between
 

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thank you. So treatment 8 days apart with a water change between

Yes - just don't underestimate the need for an air stone! You should dose Prazipro for the actual volume of the tank, the 15% deduction is an estimate of the amount of water typically displaced by the sand and tank decorations, since you probably do not know the exact net water volume of the tank.

I prefer to finish the copper treatment and then dose with Prazi, but if the fish show severe signs of flukes (scratching/flashing, rapid breathing) you might need to run them concurrently.
 
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Yes - just don't underestimate the need for an air stone! You should dose Prazipro for the actual volume of the tank, the 15% deduction is an estimate of the amount of water typically displaced by the sand and tank decorations, since you probably do not know the exact net water volume of the tank.

I prefer to finish the copper treatment and then dose with Prazi, but if the fish show severe signs of flukes (scratching/flashing, rapid breathing) you might need to run them concurrently.

I have an air stone in there already, I don’t see much most of the wrasse are still hiding but I do see 1 of them breathing kinda heavy idk if that’s because of stress or flukes. The tank with the new wrasse is next to an observation tank that has 2 of my tangs that finished QT about a month ago since I’m slowly introducing the fish into my new display tank so I don’t overwhelm the bio filter. You think it might be a problem? None of the wrasse are showing any signs of ich
 

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I have an air stone in there already, I don’t see much most of the wrasse are still hiding but I do see 1 of them breathing kinda heavy idk if that’s because of stress or flukes. The tank with the new wrasse is next to an observation tank that has 2 of my tangs that finished QT about a month ago since I’m slowly introducing the fish into my new display tank so I don’t overwhelm the bio filter. You think it might be a problem? None of the wrasse are showing any signs of ich
Tanks next to each can sometimes allow for diseases to go between them, is that what you're asking? Here is an article I wrote about that:

 
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Tanks next to each can sometimes allow for diseases to go between them, is that what you're asking? Here is an article I wrote about that:

Yeah basically what I’m saying the tanks are next to each other but since there’s no visible signs of ich on the newly acquired wrasse. What’s the possibility to my tangs catching something? I don’t want to add the tangs to copper again but if it’s necessary I’ll quarantine them
 
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bshake

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Tanks next to each can sometimes allow for diseases to go between them, is that what you're asking? Here is an article I wrote about that:

Since I know you stated that Ich can sometimes be transmitted via aerosol but if there’s no current infection
 

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Since I know you stated that Ich can sometimes be transmitted via aerosol but if there’s no current infection

If there is no active infection, spreading between tanks is a minimal risk.
 

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Yes - just don't underestimate the need for an air stone! You should dose Prazipro for the actual volume of the tank, the 15% deduction is an estimate of the amount of water typically displaced by the sand and tank decorations, since you probably do not know the exact net water volume of the tank.

I prefer to finish the copper treatment and then dose with Prazi, but if the fish show severe signs of flukes (scratching/flashing, rapid breathing) you might need to run them concurrently.
Hi - similar scenario to the original OP of this thread :)


How aggressive would you be with a bubbler? I'm about to buy a wrasse that will go into a 10g quarantine tank with a HOB filter. In the past with air stones, I've run them where there's a ton of bubbles and wind up with salt creep from evaporation from the bubbles...wondering if I'm way overdoing it?
 

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Hi - similar scenario to the original OP of this thread :)


How aggressive would you be with a bubbler? I'm about to buy a wrasse that will go into a 10g quarantine tank with a HOB filter. In the past with air stones, I've run them where there's a ton of bubbles and wind up with salt creep from evaporation from the bubbles...wondering if I'm way overdoing it?
The air bubbles should run from the bottom of the tank at a moderate stream - they do need to break the surface, that helps drive off excess carbon dioxide. They shouldn’t be so strong that the fish can’t avoid them easily.
A tank cover keeps fish from jumping out and reduces salt creep.
 

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The air bubbles should run from the bottom of the tank at a moderate stream - they do need to break the surface, that helps drive off excess carbon dioxide. They shouldn’t be so strong that the fish can’t avoid them easily.
A tank cover keeps fish from jumping out and reduces salt creep.
thank you!!
 

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