will this coraline help me in my fight against phosphate?
- Thread starter Ballyhoo
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Phosphate will not control coraline.
My phosphate is .38 I’m not worried about it at all
Corals are plump and happy
Also .09 is what I would consider an ideal number for most tanks
My phosphate is .38 I’m not worried about it at all
Corals are plump and happy
Also .09 is what I would consider an ideal number for most tanks
It looks like your tank is progressing nicely. Your PO4 is perfect. Coraline is a sign of a healthy tank.everyday im having to check my phosphate having to see it fluctuates around.09 now this has surfaced im wondering if my phosphate will get under control.
Ballyhoo
Well-Known Member
well, the issue is I have to add a lot of Rowa to keep it at .09 and run a reactor. And that concerns me because it makes me have to monitor every day in case some of the Rowa starts to degrade. anyways, per #1, I know phosphate doesn't control Coraline, but the conditions that cause Coraline help fight against high phosphate? thanks all! Any success I may be enjoying is because of this and other forums on this website.
While scientifically there can be some lofty explanation about the conditions being stability and maturity, calcium, lighting, maturity etc that promotes coraline and also are indicative of a established healthy tank that has some natural phosphate absorbing capabilities…I would summarize and say - marginal to unrelated.
I don’t correlate coraline with phosphate control. Maybe I’m wrong.
In my experience the best ways to fight phosphate is:
Reduce feeding
Gfo
Phosguard
Algae scrubbers
Refugiums
My preferred method is algae scrubbers as there is no media to replace, they just suck up phosphate 18 hours a day, and once a week you throw out the algae and let it regrow
Jasongtr
Well-Known Member
On the subject of algae scrubbers would you say they take phosphates more than nitrates? Asking as mine is very effective and I'm dosing phosphates back in, nitrates are 13ppm currently
They do directly consume both but I feel it’s more aggressive with phosphates.
You could reduce total hours the scrubber led is powered, to reduce phosphate consumption. It’s capabilities are adjustable. Reducing by a 30-60 min a day could yield results that eliminate the need to dose, with minimal effect on nitrates
Small changes and give a week for results. Start with 30 min. Wait a week and see what happens.
Jasongtr
Well-Known Member
We've had low phosphates for a while, been dosing on and off for a couple of months, been adjusting the ATS light schedule on the back of nitrate test results but I'll factor phosphate in too.
bobnicaragua
Valuable Member
If I crank up the refugium lighting my nitrates will 0 out and my phosphates will stay above .2
I keep 2 bags with GFO and carbon in the sump and change one every 2 weeks. Try to find a maintenance routine that will keep phosphates in the range you want.
I keep 2 bags with GFO and carbon in the sump and change one every 2 weeks. Try to find a maintenance routine that will keep phosphates in the range you want.
Ballyhoo
Well-Known Member
what's that example? if you lost in order of importance?
I do Feed my fish a lot of flake and pellet. Perhaps if I fed a lot more frozen shrimp / frozen ocean foods that would help reduce the phosphate issue. I'm also getting this brown gunky stuff; brown threaded stuff still occurs.
Which example ?
List is not in any particular order. Random order.
But reducing feeding is easiest. You may simply be feeding a tad too much or too much of a high phosphate food
Do you have those cubes of frozen mysis or other prepackaged, frozen cube foods? One way to reduces phosphate put in the tank is to thaw the cube in a cup, then pours through a strainer or net This leaves the food separated from the liquid. Dispose of the liquid and just feed the food.
I believe there is a device for this. I will look for it for you
Found it
www.bulkreefsupply.com
Frozen Fish Food Strainer
The AquaReady Frozen Fish Food Strainer is an excellent tool to keep your aquarium cleaner. While frozen fish foods are nutritious and beneficial for your fish, the liquid from thawing can contain phosphates, nitrates, and binders that can foul your water. Using the strainer allows you to...
www.bulkreefsupply.com
Ballyhoo
Well-Known Member
interesting. I also feel a little bit like I'm unsure about my lighting. But this is more of a coral and Nem issue. Too many lights too much LED and I get San growth. Not enough light on my coral and Nems don't grow. But that's a different thread, I read this thing about taking the food out of the freezer causes high phosphates and I wasn't sure what to think about it but it makes sense I guess
The liquid that is created when thawing is a contributor to phosphates. You put the cube in the tank, or thaw in a cup and pour in the tank…what do the fish eat? The food chunks. What happens to the liquid? Dissolved into tank water and is pure phosphates and nitrates and participle matter that gets dispersed.
You can use a device like I posted or make a diy at home to thaw food but separate from “food liquid” so you can just feed the food. And keep that stanky liquid out of the tank.
Some tanks need the extra phosphates. Some don’t. Every tank is it’s own little experiment with things to try and test to see what works best for you
You can use a device like I posted or make a diy at home to thaw food but separate from “food liquid” so you can just feed the food. And keep that stanky liquid out of the tank.
Some tanks need the extra phosphates. Some don’t. Every tank is it’s own little experiment with things to try and test to see what works best for you
bobnicaragua
Valuable Member
I would try adding T5 to your existing LEDs. They produce a more gentle light.
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