Which RODI?

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Saltwaternoob89

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I have searched for guides, and maybe I missed it so forgive me. I started a Chat with BRS attaching the report but looks like they wont be back in until tomorrow and i'm not sure of their chat volume. I am looking to get a RODI for my 28 gallon bow front. I have attached my city's water report. Is there enough info in there? I see people talk about TDS, I dont see that on this report. Do I need to figure that out? i am trying to snag one with the sales going on right now? I don't need to make tons of water since my water changes are about 4-8g at a time. So I was thinking the 75gpd ones are fine since that is the lowest BRS sells. Will this one work fine, or do I need 5 stage?

4 Stage Value Plus 75GPD RO/DI System - Bulk Reef Supply

Thanks for the help.

EDIT: ATTACHED WRONG YEAR, this is the right year.

1669571763482.png
 
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Fish Think Pink

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I have searched for guides, and maybe I missed it so forgive me. I started a Chat with BRS attaching the report but looks like they wont be back in until tomorrow and i'm not sure of their chat volume. I am looking to get a RODI for my 28 gallon bow front. I have attached my city's water report. Is there enough info in there? I see people talk about TDS, I dont see that on this report. Do I need to figure that out? i am trying to snag one with the sales going on right now? I don't need to make tons of water since my water changes are about 4-8g at a time. So I was thinking the 75gpd ones are fine since that is the lowest BRS sells. Will this one work fine, or do I need 5 stage?

4 Stage Value Plus 75GPD RO/DI System - Bulk Reef Supply

Thanks for the help.

EDIT: ATTACHED WRONG YEAR, this is the right year.

View attachment 2914942

SO, what are you putting your water into?

Waiting for water gets annoying, and for that reason I'd vote larger.

TDS is total dissolved solids. It doesn't matter what is in the incoming water, as that's what the filtration is for BUT TDS meters are cheap - get one so you know when to change your filters. I change mine when they get about 3, but some will say at 1...

I'd recommend this - he has wonderful customer service and lots of training too:
 

DaJMasta

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Also worth mentioning that RO production slows down as the temperature drops - I'm seeing like 60% production on my summer production rate.


IMO, buy your core unit for the included accessories (like a needle valve or hose adapter for installation) and build quality (or installation instructions), but it can be most anything. Then use good quality filters in each stage and you'll get as good production and water cleanliness as the high end units. It's worth checking if your water system uses chloramines, and if so, I would go with two carbon block stages (I use one chloramine block and one standard block).
 
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Saltwaternoob89

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SO, what are you putting your water into?

Waiting for water gets annoying, and for that reason I'd vote larger.

TDS is total dissolved solids. It doesn't matter what is in the incoming water, as that's what the filtration is for BUT TDS meters are cheap - get one so you know when to change your filters. I change mine when they get about 3, but some will say at 1...

I'd recommend this - he has wonderful customer service and lots of training too:

I have 2, 5 gallon buckets I have been using. Unfortunately I don't have room for a big 55g brute can or anything. It looks like the BRS one comes with a TDS meter? Thanks for the help and info!

Also worth mentioning that RO production slows down as the temperature drops - I'm seeing like 60% production on my summer production rate.


IMO, buy your core unit for the included accessories (like a needle valve or hose adapter for installation) and build quality (or installation instructions), but it can be most anything. Then use good quality filters in each stage and you'll get as good production and water cleanliness as the high end units. It's worth checking if your water system uses chloramines, and if so, I would go with two carbon block stages (I use one chloramine block and one standard block).

Good info! I read you shouldn't run hot water through them as it deteriorates the filter faster, but didn't know cold water ran slower.
 

Fish Think Pink

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Also worth mentioning that RO production slows down as the temperature drops - I'm seeing like 60% production on my summer production rate.


IMO, buy your core unit for the included accessories (like a needle valve or hose adapter for installation) and build quality (or installation instructions), but it can be most anything. Then use good quality filters in each stage and you'll get as good production and water cleanliness as the high end units. It's worth checking if your water system uses chloramines, and if so, I would go with two carbon block stages (I use one chloramine block and one standard block).

Never heard that and never experienced that... but if my filters haven't been changed in past 5-6 months then my water production speed does drop (but my TDS is also rising off 0 because things are sneaking past the filled cartridges.) I'll have to look into that.
 

DaJMasta

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Never heard that and never experienced that... but if my filters haven't been changed in past 5-6 months then my water production speed does drop (but my TDS is also rising off 0 because things are sneaking past the filled cartridges.) I'll have to look into that.
It can be tough to notice if you just fill into a large vessel overnight or have an auto shut off or something, but I was filling gallon jugs with my system in 7-8 minutes this past summer and I'm up closer to 15 minutes now. In a quick google, it seems like the estimate is around 3% production for every degree (Farenheit) lower than nominal (about 77F).
 
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Buckeye Hydro

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EricR

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Just from the perspective of "if" you're looking at that BRS 4 stage unit you linked to:
For $8 more (current sale), you could get the 5 stage with the second carbon block.

More stages gives you more options but you could always add another DI easily later.
*I have the BRS 6 stage (75 GPD) and am pretty happy with it. (My source water has pretty high TDS at about 475 but NO chloramines)

No experience with any other units but the one linked in post #2 looks interesting also.
 
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