What's more reliable LLS, MOS, OS-1 or good ol' float switch for sump level control ?

14 foot reef

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What's more reliable LLS, MOS, OS-1 or good ol' float switch for sump level control ?

This is not a cost question, this is an accuracy and reliability question. Thanks in advance for real time knowledge of these options.




 

Doctorgori

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the old optical were junk IMO, supposedly these. new magnetic cubes are better…
…I’m using LLS’s for most of my ATO heavy lifting, 4 of 8 have gone bad since they have been out (2yrs?)
…I’ve bought/replaced over 4 FMM’s outta perhaps 8

…my take: go Tunze
 

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I have 3 out of the 4.

My regular float switches are the most reliable for me. I use 2 at the same height. If both are low it fills until 1 is high.

The liquid level sensor seems to be working well enough I dont have any real complaints i just use it for sanity checking.

I use 2 opticals on my 8g planted cube for its ATO. The sensors work for about 2 years then start acting funny. Dont know why but seem to have to replace them every 2 years.

The float switches i have used the same ones for 10 years lol
 
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the old optical were junk IMO, supposedly these. new magnetic cubes are better…
…I’m using LLS’s for most of my ATO heavy lifting, 4 of 8 have gone bad since they have been out (2yrs?)
…I’ve bought/replaced over 4 FMM’s outta perhaps 8

…my take: go Tunze
You say go Tunze, does Tunze integrate with Apex? If not, then this is not an option.

Thanks look forward to hearing beck with your input.
 

Doctorgori

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You say go Tunze, does Tunze integrate with Apex? If not, then this is not an option.

Thanks look forward to hearing beck with your input.
no Tunze doesn’t integrate with Apex, biggest downside being no input for skimmer overflows, wet floors, et

Anyway I ended up programming LLS for ATO as those v1 opticals have flat out burned me….The reliability of the newer magnetic “ cubes” tbd

Also I’ve had to replace FMM’s more than a few times
 

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The float switches i have used the same ones for 10 years lol
I have over 6 years on this one and it's never even been cleaned since I installed it. It's on an older JBJ ato unit. I wrapped it in a ladies knee high stocking when I installed it to keep snails out and that had done a superb job keeping everything out. I have no experience with any other type in question.
20231229_081459.jpg
 
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I have over 6 years on this one and it's never even been cleaned since I installed it. It's on an older JBJ ato unit. I wrapped it in a ladies knee high stocking when I installed it to keep snails out and that had done a superb job keeping everything out. I have no experience with any other type in question.
20231229_081459.jpg

What type float switch is this ?
 

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there is a alternative way to use a float switch and. that’s via a PM1 and breakout box ( or via the 6 sw ports on the head unit)
I cop’d magnetic float switches from Amazon and just hardwired them up to a breakout box. I used them to tell me when my kalk or 2 part containers were empty
 
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there is a alternative way to use a float switch and. that’s via a PM1 and breakout box ( or via the 6 sw ports on the head unit)
I cop’d magnetic float switches from Amazon and just hardwired them up to a breakout box. I used them to tell me when my kalk or 2 part containers were empty
Yes, I am trying to figure out the most reliable Switch/Vehicle to use. So far, seems obvious that the most reliable choice is the tried and true tested vertical float switch.
 

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The tube pressure switches have been extremely reliable for me. I used a Spectrapure liter meter 3 with a tube pressure switch backup shutoff for about 20 years without fail.

After I dropped my liter meter controller into a vat of kalkwasser a few year ago, I started using a Spectrapure ATO. I don’t see that unit on their website now but guessing that’s because of a holiday special going on now.
 
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The tube pressure switches have been extremely reliable for me. I used a Spectrapure liter meter 3 with a tube pressure switch backup shutoff for about 20 years without fail.

After I dropped my liter meter controller into a vat of kalkwasser a few year ago, I started using a Spectrapure ATO. I don’t see that unit on their website now but guessing that’s because of a holiday special going on now.
Do you have a link for the "Tube Pressure Switch" you mentioned ?
 
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And also to be clear, these switches will only be for shutting off pumps if sump low, notifying me sump is low, and then also notifications for sump high. I do not use switches for auto top off. I use the DOS pushing RODI through a avast kalk stirrer reverse light schedule ( Modified Meckly Process ) for top off at a rate of 15,000 ml per day(12 hour dark period), about 4 US gallons.
 

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Do you have a link for the "Tube Pressure Switch" you mentioned ?

The unit I use now is not in stock so the link is gone. Im trying to upload a picture. This the full ATO, but in the past you could just get the switch. I still use my switch OG from the 90’s as an AWC fail safe.

1703862743305.jpeg


I see from above you want an “on” switch anyway. This would be an off switch.
 

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exnisstech

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What type float switch is this ?
It's a mechanical switch like your last image in the first post. There are two included with the JBJ ATO. This is the same switch without the cover. This one is in the ATO container for low level pump shut off 20231229_105020.jpg
 
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It's a mechanical switch like your last image in the first post. There are two included with the JBJ ATO. This is the same switch without the cover. This one is in the ATO container for low level pump shut off 20231229_105020.jpg
Thank you, seems to be these horizontal floats and a breakout box to PM1 is the answer for long term reliability
 

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Thank you, seems to be these horizontal floats and a breakout box to PM1 is the answer for long term reliability
These have been very reliable for me. I remember looking into Tunze ATO units once and they had optical sensors but used a mechanical float switch as a fail safe :thinking-face:
 

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What's more reliable LLS, MOS, OS-1 or good ol' float switch for sump level control ?

This is not a cost question, this is an accuracy and reliability question. Thanks in advance for real time knowledge of these options.




I have been running Neptune LLS on my ATO for about a year, and it is really too unreliable to be useful so I ended up removing it. I get better indication that my ATO is low when I see bubbles in the display, lol. So far, I haven't had any issues with the ATK, so I may try a simple optical sensor to let me know to fill up the ATO.
 

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